jfrijhoff

Oh dear, me contemplating a Plus or Mini is thinking to start getting the hang of NINA instead for a while…

On 20/01/2023 at 14:13, Phillyo said:

Just wondering, how do you guys rotate your lens and camera to get the correct framing of your target? Or do you just set it and leave it and hope for the best? Any tips/tricks for easy rotation and framing?

Like the others mentioned: I have my lens on an astromodified DSLR (canon), and rotate the camera in the lens collar to get the correct framing. The lens is mounted currently on a A001 lens collar off of Aliexpress. It’s not a flush fit though, so I put felts on the inside to make it work. I’m waiting on a WO cat mounting ring that should be a snug fit, then I can also attach the guide cam on top.

On 28/01/2023 at 14:01, 900SL said:

How did you do that in Siril Kat? I assume manual preprocessing.. do you have a link to an idiots guide? 

Yes, manual preprocessing. It was the first time for me to do manual preprocessing, so a bit of a noob, but it worked out fine! https://siril.org/tutorials/comet/

My stacked images had lines running over it, bummed because I got quite some hours on the heart and soul nebula. Must be walking noise, people agreed. Tried dithering, same thing. Turned out I hadn’t properly cleaned my lens and it had streaks on it… Then the dither settings on my SWSA2i got saved, and when I didn’t want to dither, it did so anyway, ruining >90% of the subs and another many clear nights before I figured that one out…

All taken with a Rokinon 135mm at f2.8, mostly 30 sec at ISO800, total integration between 30sec (Orion) and 30-60 minutes on a astromodified (full spectrum) canon eos 550D with either CLS clip-in filter or CLS-CCD clip-in filter, in a Bortle 5 zone. 

Finally happening! Clear skies in the south of the Netherlands. Was surprisingly quick to find the comet with my SWSA2i, and it’s imaging away at 30sec ISO800 for the next hour.

Not sure how often you should re-grease, not long enough in the hobby. The cryptic answer would be, whenever it starts to feel stiff again I guess.

How are you liking it so far?

10 hours ago, pipnina said:

I believe the HEQ5 uses a lithium grease normally, I'm sure other greases will work as a substitute but I would probably choose to go with the manufacturer's choice myself, unless there's an obviously better alternative.

Lithium grease is quite thick but of course that can be quite good for the slow, high torque and high load gearing being lubricated.

If I have to go by the multiple reviews and tuning out there, then they all say the factory grease is low grade and better replaced with better grease, and indeed spread thinly.

Just wondering, if you’re already familiar with NINA and you want to use a laptop, would a mini-pc work in your case?

Not trying to get you away from the mini, looks like a great tool.

I’ve used Super Lube PTFE, not for an HEQ5, but SWSA 2i, but same principal. Good grease that also works at low temperatures.

I had no idea, good to know!!

Some basic stuff, but good to keep me imaging and guiding throughout the night:

- vixen clamp for SWSA 2i

- vixen dovetail bar

- dummy battery for my canon 550D

- hex bolts

Now just to get familiar with NINA control.

Seriously cool (pun intended)! For v1.1, will it be able to keep my beer cold as well 😬?

41 minutes ago, matija said:

For this image I didn't have any ccs or reducers. I was able to get what looked like perfect focus with an eyepiece (sky panorama 23mm 82deg) after adding the included extension tube.

 So does that mean, that my sensor has to be 37.5mm away from the end of the focuser or..?

I don't see how adding even more space between the cam and scope would make it easier to focus, considering, I can already overshoot and undershoot focus without any tubes.

 

Thanks!

Matija

So you based correct focus using the eyepiece, and not with the camera? I’m confused.

You could compare with astroshop.eu, they at least also give an option for prices in Norwegian kronor, so expect they also deliver there. Perhaps there are astronomy societies close by where you are that can also give advice, or even try out equipment?

Just starting my first steps in guiding (when the clouds clear up, so most likely not before summer 🤣), this is great!

Great read! Glad I’m doing these things mostly already by mezelf before reading this 😀

Thanks both! I’ll keep in getting familiar with NINA using my old laptop, and then a mini-pc is looking very attractive afterwards.

On 14/01/2023 at 20:41, Elp said:

I eventually got the mini, the internal antenna works much better and at speed, same usage scenario.

I changed the channel of the WiFi extender on the pro to no avail, still patchy connection.

Good to know, thanks!

Have you had a look into (free) MagicLantern and whether there’s a version for the 4000D? You load this onto the camera via the SD-card and gives you a bunch of features, including an intervalometer.

No problem, given the reticle you showed I thought it may be this one. I thinks some posts in here may be able to help you out if you still like to remedy this:

https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/653045-ioptron-skyguider-pro-maintenance-and-upkeep/

good luck!

On 19/01/2023 at 18:52, CCD-Freak said:

I am a bit of a "Black Sheep" since I prefer to put the mini PC and such on the pier or tripod instead of mounting it all up top on the optical tube.  I do it to reduce cable clutter, weight and wind load and it is also easier to protect the electronics from dew, frost or low temperatures.   By using the internal hub on the camera I can reduce the number of cables which I run through "cable braid" that is secured at each end to take the strain off the connectors.  Cable braid allows each cable to move separately which makes the bundle more flexible.  

To quote Mando...."This is the Way"  8^P

 

 

That's a sweet looking rig! Do the mini-PCs hold up well in general in (freezing) cold and high humidity?

11 minutes ago, Yawning Angel said:

If you want to try out processing some data, let me know and I'll try to upload it somewhere 15 x 60 per channel

Ditto!

You mentioned earlier you preferred DSLR at first, and it's a great way to start with a (astro-modified) DSLR and still get good images. They're also available second-hand. You also don't necessarily have to start thinking of having to use ASIAIR or Raspberry or mini-PC right away. And when you're ready to go down that route, you can still go for either of those options, and the DSLR can still be useable later on, or resell it.