francis8

congratulations well deserved

Flaming star nebula

15 hours  total integration

HSOO

player one ares mm

sho zwofilters

heq5

Flaming star nebula

15 hours  total integration

HSOO

player one ares mm

sho zwofilters

heq5

Hi all, I just bought my first mono camera, which I haven't used yet bloody weather, my question is, when you collecting data on nina every channel goes to the same folder, how can you tell wich one is for example the l, r, g, b, I did a trial run at home tuck a few frames on lrgb and when I looked at the folder there were no hint of wich one is wich, hope it makes sense 

5 hours ago, Bibabutzemann said:

When you dither between every (few) image you would expect that the hotpixels dont allign. These artefacts should go away once you do median stacking or additive stacking with default rejection settings.

I get the same pattern like on your 2nd image when doing addtive stacking and choose "no rejection" as a rejection method.

Comparing your worklfow with this tutorial by Dominique Dhoosche may helps understanding what went wrong: https://siril.org/tutorials/tuto-manual/

thanks Patrick, I did realize  about the pixels when i actually stack them properly, and you right about the rejection method, I did that ,thanks for the link, that's what i have been doing lately, just try to find information to understand how all that part of astrophotography works,  I think I made the mistake of thinking better equipment equals great pictures without realizing the work in between  have to be as good if not better,

thanks again for the info.

Francis

On 10/04/2023 at 13:41, alacant said:

Correct. To begin with, try without in-camera bias and without dark frames. The 533 is so clean anyway, you may find you're better without. Probably best of course, when you're familiar with the software, to try both with and without and decide for yourself.

So, enter =50 for the master bias.

Cheers 

HI Alacant, your method did work, and as you said I try different ways,  darks did make everything worst, your way did the job but I tried flats and dark flats and seems to give a cleaner image, thanks for pointing me on the right direction,  for a moment I thought I bought a lemon. This one with just flats and offset values, plus have to remove the other picture it was hurting my eyes lol

1 hour ago, michael8554 said:

Hi Francis

Your stacks have pixel trails, due to less than optimum stacking settings.

"Images must have same dimensions"

Are you trying to stack images with different bit-depths ?

Michael

Hi Michael

I'm not sure, I used the same process that I learn wile using the other camera but obviously something is not right, been trying all day to see what is wrong but with no joy

thanks for the reply 

1 hour ago, alacant said:

Hi

What offset did you use? I think 70 is the default. That should lose the negative values.

To keep it simple, take flat frames only and pre-process using a value of 70 for bias (enter =70 in  'Use bias') on the calibration tab.
Pre process then stack the flat frames with multiplicative normalisation to get a master flat.
Pre process the light frames using the same bias with the master flat
Register
Stack under additive normalisation and e.g. sigma-clip 5-2

If there's still noise (533 so I doubt it) then you can try adding dark frames.

Cheers and HTH

Hi  thanks for the reply 

offset was 50, I will give tat a go, I know you said to keep it simple, but nothing is simple when you you are a 60 year old newbie, some times a surprise my self that I learn to use all this programs haha, When you say enter =70 in use bias do you mean i don't have to take biases just enter the =70 

thanks

I don't know if this is got anything to do with it but I was searching youtube for any info and seen some one that have problems with the zwo driver on nina , so i try taking a 300 s  dark, cloudy out there  again so not chance of taking lights frames, the frame takin with the zwo driver is a bit 16 and the histogram is close to the left but with the ascom driver as you can see is bit 12 and histogram is close to the middle, withch one is correct 

2 hours ago, rickwayne said:

That last image has some hella dust-bunny signatures. How are you taking and stacking flats? Do you have a bias or dark flats?

i tuck the flats with nina, using a light panel, and stacked the lights, flats ,darks and bias with deep sky staker,  same way i always do with my other camera, apart from the camera the set up is the same

this one was calibrated with siril without any calibrations frames, autostreched, 60 frames at 300 seconds 100 gain and l xtream filter, it was a full moon and the target realy low  so 300 seconds was a bit over kill but as i said, i was just trying the camera, giding was 0.6, 0.9, and i did manually focus

1 hour ago, francis8 said:

I bought a second hand 533 MC  a couple of days ago, I was made up that the sky was clear that night so I was able to test it, wen i was imagen with nina I starting live staking with sharcap and as the images were staking i notice that the hot pixels where not aligning, and when I try to process then with siril and autostrech the image this is the result, staking them with siril didn't work, After dark subtraction, the image contains many negative pixels (99%), calibration frames are probably incorrect was the message every time i try but i tuck the calibrations frames at same temperature and gain  ,   I was using a zwo 585 before that with not problem at all, is it the camera or im i doing something wrong

I bought a second hand 533 MC  a couple of days ago, I was made up that the sky was clear that night so I was able to test it, wen i was imagen with nina I starting live staking with sharcap and as the images were staking i notice that the hot pixels where not aligning, and when I try to process then with siril and autostrech the image this is the result, staking them with siril didn't work, After dark subtraction, the image contains many negative pixels (99%), calibration frames are probably incorrect was the message every time i try but i tuck the calibrations frames at same temperature and gain  ,   I was using a zwo 585 before that with not problem at all, is it the camera or im i doing something wrong

Watch Lukomatico youtube chanal, 

Welcome, we share the same camera, the 585 is a little gem

20 minutes ago, alacant said:

Make sure that both focal length and pixel size are entered in settings. 

If you've changed the camera driver, probably better to make a new profile. Just make sure the mount and camera are connected before you do so.

Cheers 

 

That make sense, I didn’t check that, thanks for the reply 

Ascom zwo driver

Yes it always does, and it was till I change the zwo driver to the Scot driver

Ascom not ascot, sorry fat fingers 

Hi, my guiding zwo camera was stoping every few minutes, I searched for any solutions and the most frecuente answer , because my imaging camera is a zwo as well, was to change the driver to a ascot zwo driver for the guide camera on phd 2, it solve the problem straight away but the total error, the one between brackets, is not showing, any one have any ideas why this  happened,

thanks

25 minutes ago, StevieDvd said:

I know this may be a long shot but may be worth looking at. Here is a trouble-shooting guide from ZWO for camera issues.

Open Device Manager first then connect the ZWO 120 to see if there is any update in the devices. If it does then may be a firmware update/refresh will re-activate the camera, if your happy to try that.

Have you contacted the seller where the cameras came from, they may suggest something they are told to do by ZWO before sending cameras back.

Good Luck with getting this resolved soon.

Steve

 

 

i will give that a go, thanks for your reply Steve

i know, been waiting to set everything together for ages, been a christmas present, i never spected it was going to end up like this, but as they say there are worst things in life, as Steve said before, i fee sick now but hopefully  all be forgotten and back out there soon

10 minutes ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

If this is the reason I am so sorry, I was devastated and in the end laid out a further £500 for the 6 USB Pegasus so make sure it never happened again, money I didnt really have to have to spare but a year on glad I did once it was all up and working again.
 

Steve

exactly, im sure i won't do that again 

4 minutes ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

I think I did cry, luckily I giot most items repaired for much less than as new cost but I was out of action for several weeks.

I hope this is not the case for you, certainly worth contacting FLO and possibly sending the cameras off to FLO to confirm, they can then handle the repair (maybe by returning to China).

The think I did wrong was to use a one to one cable to power the hub which connected 12V  from the Pegasus to the USB hub,  but it came with a 5V power supply.
IS this similar to your case, was the usb hub suppossed to be 5V AND was the power you used the 12V from pegasus?

Steve

yes i just check and it is 5 and 12 volts

2 minutes ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

I should add unless it was a variable voltage output (spme pegasus hubs have this available) and the voltage was reduced to 5V.

All a bit odd because many reckon it shouldnt have happened as I think I only had two things connected to the hub and the cameras were connected to the Pegasus which is powered by 12v anywaybut it actually took out 1 ZWO ccd, a DSD rotator, a Sesto Senso focusser and the pegasus hub itself (oh and the 5V usb hub I needed for one extra USB port than I had on the Pegasus.

the pegasus i got is the first one out, no usb ports, i conected the usb pord with both cameras  directly from the pegasus, the pegasus and usb hup are still working but no life on the cameras, you learn from your mistakes unfortunaly,

Just now, teoria_del_big_bang said:

if its a 5V hub then yes that is exactly what I did, and just didnt think because the connectors are idemtical 5.5 / 2.1 plugs.

Steve

now i feel like crying, looks like i wont be able to enjoy my present for a wile, thanks Steve for your help