Mikkel Kroman

1 hour ago, johnturley said:

I thought that the whole point of the Petzval based FSQ series is that they have a built in field flattener, and that you don't need to use an additional one.

John 

It comes with a flattener. It says that it is to be used when using a full frame camera. 

Hi all

Will I need to use the field flattener if I use my 1600MM Pro? It does not have a full frame sensor so I would think no.

Kind regards

Mikkel

19 hours ago, ollypenrice said:

Can you confirm that you're using the reducer? If not there is nothing to do other than focus.

Olly

I am not using a reducer

28 minutes ago, Adam J said:

You say your stars are elongated, can you post a image, preferably unprocessed single sub.  In so far are i can tell that 178mm is simply the available back focus in the system, so just the amount of equipment that you can place infront of the sensor while still being able to achieve focus without needing to rake the focus tube in too far. As the scope is a flat field refactor it should not matter what the back focus is. 

Now if you are using the 0.73x reducer with the scope instead of using it a native focal length you will need to place the sensor 72.2mm behind the reducer to achieve a flat field. Also you would need to compensate for filter thickness. 

Does that help?

Adam

 

 

Thank you. That was very helpful! I will try and upload an unprocessed sub.

Anyone?

Hi all

On Takahashi's website it says that the metal back distance is 178mm. Do I need to "hit" 178mm precisely? Or is it okay that it is not 178mm as long as I am able to reach focus with my ZEO EAF?

My stars seem elongated so that is why I ask. I use a ZWO ASI1600MM Pro.

Kind regards

Mikkel

On 02/12/2022 at 16:00, Skipper Billy said:

I have just seen that you bought it 'used' - having said that it is an EDX not an EDX4 so you would be within your rights to return it as it was misrepresented. Again, all depends what you paid for it.

3,500 Euros. It has only been used in a lab. Not outside. I am really unsure of what to do. I has been cloudy for almost two months here so I am not able to take it out for a test.

6 minutes ago, Stuart1971 said:

If you have bought that new, then yes I would as that is a very old stock item, where did you get that from….and what colour is the paint, if it is the old green then it’s very old, it should be the newer tak blue colour….it looks like the old green colour in the image, so it’s at least 3-4 years old, so, very old stock, I bought the FSQ85 EDX, 4 years ago,  and it’s the new blue colour with the new rotator…

I bought it used from a shop. It is green.

56 minutes ago, Stuart1971 said:

Yes yours is the older version, with what they call the captains wheel…they replaced it, with what was advertised as a better version of an adjuster…..not sure why, and what was wrong with the Captains wheel method….👍🏻

Thank you for claryfying. I wonder whether I should complain....It was advertised as an EDX4.

Hi guys

I recently purchased a FSQ-106EDX4 scope. However, the camera angle adjuster looks different from the photos I find on the internet. See the attached photos.

Is my FSQ-106ED an older version?

Dear all

Should I use this option when stacking and before editing in PS? I use a ZWO ASI1600MM Pro. When I use images from autosave, the images do not look the same (as good) as when I look at the stacked image in DSS.

Kind rgds

mikkel

Hi folks

I own a Skywatcher Explorer 150PDS and I am trying to find an apprpriate heat wrap for my secondary mirror.

How do I know whether my secondary mirror is glued on?

Kind rgds

mikkel

Hi guys. Is this the correct way to connect my ZWO camera to the scope (Skywatcher Ex. 150 PDS)?

Top from the left: coma corrector, M42M-M48F, T2-T2-adapter, M42M-M42F, Filter wheel, camera.

At the bottom: my standard setup. Will I not need any of those parts when imagining?

Hi guys. Is this the correct way to connect my ZWO camera to the scope (Skywatcher Ex. 150 PDS)?

Top from the left: coma corrector, M42M-M48F, T2-T2-adapter, M42M-M42F, Filter wheel, camera.

At the bottom: my standard setup. Will I not need any of those parts when imagining?

7 minutes ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

1st off change the BAUD rate to 9600 the try & connect 

That did the trick. Thanks! Everywhere I read it says to set it to 115200.

6 minutes ago, Cornelius Varley said:

Which socket on the motor control board is the eqmod cable connected to ? I assume it is the socket normally used by the handset ?. Have you selected the correct Comms port number for the eqmod cable in eqmod as assigned in windows device manager and there are no yellow warning flags in device manager ?

 

 

 

 

Correct. I have selected the correct COMS port. See photos attached.

12 minutes ago, StevieDvd said:

Open Device Manager in windows then plug in the usb end of the cable, no need to have it connected at the other end yet.  The device manager should refresh and hopefully it gets identified as a com port lead and you can see the com port number assigned. If it goes in as an unidentified device you may be missing the driver (either a FTDI or Prolific one) - FTDI is preferable as it remembers the same port number most of the time.

If you do get the port number assigned then retry plugging the lead in at the black box (presumably you are using the port the handset normally connects to).

 

I followed those steps but still the same error. See photos attached.

Hi guys. I am new in the world of astrophotography. I am trying to connect my EQ3 Pro to my PC but I am getting the errror "Connect Error: Timeout" in EQMOD. I am using a EQMOD USB cable. I connect it in the small black box (not in the hand controller as it does not fit there). I want to use N.I.N.A but I am getting an error (Telescope connection lost).

What am I doing wrong?

I have downloaded ASCOM, EQMOD, the driver for the mount (at the Skywatcher website I chose Synscan controller - is it the wrong one?), N.I.N.A and Carte du ciel.