THEGREAT

I have recently received an online purchase of Canon 12x36 IS iii binocular. Being my first IS bino, this is indeed a very useful feature.
However I wasn't lucky enough to receive a copy without collimation problems, that some older posts on here seems to have mentioned.

It is not an absolute disaster, to have completely two images formed, but it is enough misaligned to cause that unpleasant feeling that makes you not want to look too much time through them and feeling eye strain and discomfort after a while.

Is there a way to try to fix the problem for this model (other than returning)? I wonder if other users had this issue recently.

Thanks

On 14/05/2022 at 08:01, Aaf146 said:

Hi guys, first time posting on here. 

I've searched to see if anyone has already asked this question but couldn't find anything.

 

I have a pair of cheap 10x50s already and enjoy them but am looking to get some 7x50s now for a slightly wider fov. I have a very limited budget of £50. I've seen the celestron cometron which seem respectable. 

 

Does anyone have any experience with these binoculars or any advice on other binoculars in a similar price range that might be a better choice.

 

Thanks, Adam

I own a pair of these; I also own a pair of Nikon Aculon 7x50s. I picked up the Celestrons after owning the Nikons because I host community events and wanted an extra pair to hand to other people's kids. I also wanted to know what to recommend for beginners.

The build quality is good (nothing rattles, and collimation is tight across the range), and the image sharpness is fairly crisp at the center of the FOV. However, they suffer from significant vignetting, and the image quality suffers considerably along the edges (with only the center 1/3 circle being crispy, and the outer edge being downright blurry).

In comparison, the Aculons are slightly brighter (if at all), but the image is sharp and consistent across the entire field. (Nikon claims they use aspherical lenses to achieve edge sharpness, so that's what the extra $70 buys you vice the BaK4 prisms IMO.) The Aculons are more forgiving on where I place my eyeballs (whereas I have to fiddle with the Celestrons to optimize the placement of the exit pupils). The Aculons are longer and a bit heavier (900g vice 765g for the Celestrons). The Nikon case is padded. And the Aculons come with dust plugs (vice caps) that don't fall off the objectives.

I spend most of my time using my Nikon Action Lookout II 10x50s, so I'm not all that vested in which of the 7x50s is better. If I only had $30 to spend, the Celestrons are the only choice. But if I only had $100 to spend, what I bought would depend on how I planned to use them. If I were buying for a Cub Scout troop, I'd buy 3 pairs of Celestrons. If I were buying for myself, I'd get the Aculons.

On 15/06/2022 at 16:46, scarp15 said:

Received the Tele Vue news letter and learnt of the passing of Paul Dellechiaie.

He become an optical designer for the company and led on the optical design for Ethos, Delos and DeLite eyepieces; the later two a homage to his name. 

Here is the article accounting for his time working at Tele Vue.

Remembering Paul Dellechiaie – Tele Vue Optics, Inc. Blog

 

 

Reading this article, I realized he is such a great man. May he find rest in the blossom of our Lord Jesus Christ

On 20/06/2022 at 14:46, Nigella Bryant said:

Hi all, I think I see sun dog's this evening as the sun sets on a beautiful day in the South West of England.

 

Beautiful susnset.. If you had waited couple more minute you would have get a beautiful Golden Hour....

On 18/06/2022 at 05:10, edarter said:

Hi,

Would there be anyone out there happy to have a go at processing a dataset I have of the Heart Nebula?

I'm not particularly great at image processing but I get by, however this one is giving me real trouble! It doesn't matter what I do in Photoshop I cannot seem to get anything resembling a half decent image from the stack. Especially given the integration time (about 5hrs with an astro modded Canon 600D and my 130PDS). I would post a result of my attempts at it, but to be honest I've never got far enough in to the processing to be happy enough to save it. Things go wrong pretty much from the off with initial stretches. I've tried gentle stretches, aggressive ones, colour preserving Arc hyperbolic etc etc and the end result always looks VERY red and background incredibly washed out. Any attempt at colour balance / correction or gradient removal sees a lot of the nebula just vanish. I'm stumped as to what I'm doing wrong. APP gives a bit better result, but VERY noisy and I just get nowhere with startools.

So if anyone is up for a challenge then please let me know, I would be genuinely intrigued to see what could be done with it compared to my half baked attempts!

Thanks
Ed

Youtube videos would a lot of help buddy

Bosun could be right Afterall. I'd advise you do a factory reset also..

1 hour ago, Cosmic Geoff said:

For visual use, polar alignment is not at all critical.  If you attain a usable polar alignment (by whatever method), then you could mark out the ground so that next time you set up the mount you just have to place the tripod legs in pre-marked positions.

If you are aligning for imaging, there are various methods you can use that don't require Polaris to be visible.

Thanks for the information Cosmic. 

On 06/04/2022 at 12:27, Owmuchonomy said:

What mount/software have you got?  If it's only visual you are doing you can use other methods and avoid polar alignment on Polaris completely.

Sorry I did not specify the equipment that i am using. I have a Celestron AVX mount and an 8”SCT with wifi module and the StarSense camera. I am trying to perform this alignment because when I GoTo an xxx star it is not centered on the eyepiece. For visual observation I have no problems but I am preparing for short exposure Astro photography with a Nikon D5300. But I am not there yet.

On 17/03/2022 at 16:13, cajen2 said:

Guiding my daughter through her first observation via WhatsApp.....when she can only see the moon and one star! 😄

 

aww, that must be so much fun

Polar alignment:
to Polar align my telescope mount I had to raise the mount around two feet to surpass an inevitable obstruction in order to see Polaris, but then to be able to do visual observations I have to, on occasions, use an small steps ladder.
I was wondering if after Polar Alignment I could lower the mount (maintaining equitative distance between the triangle touching the ground) without losing polar alignment. I am not a trigonometric expert so I was planing on using a yard stick to do the measurements.
I have used PS Align Pro app and it is good but not perfectly good when compared to visual alignment using the polar alignment scope.
Thank you in advance for your advice.