Rob F

On 18/10/2022 at 14:26, braybarr said:

Sorry for all the questions but I’m dying to get this sorted out. Do you just use a generic wrap-around heater? I’ve heard that causes turbulence inside the tube while not actually heating the primary mirror. But if it works for you then I might as well give it a go. 

I haven’t noticed any. I keep the heater strap as far back as I can and on the middle setting so it warms the tube and doesn’t get too hot. It’s an inexpensive heater strap but does the job.

On 16/10/2022 at 19:48, braybarr said:

Curious how many people have issues with their primary mirrors dewing over? I’m going to try using a shower cap around the back end of the scope tonight, but I’m dreading the fact I might still get dewed over. 

Seems you have to take a DIY approach if you want to heat the mirror, and that’s intimidating to me. 

The swimming/shower cap I use now has helped with stray light and I think also with dew. I use heater straps at the rear of the ota and no issues with seeing on the secondary. I also have a dew shield which helps against dew and stray light, and my ota is flocked.

heater strap and diy dew shield for the guide scope helped greatly against dew and fogging of the the guide scope.

21 hours ago, alacant said:

Hi

Almost certainly this. Simply removing and reseating the camera on an unmodified sw-ds focuser will cause tilt to change. Before suspecting sensor tilt in the camera (rare), as a minimum, remove the focuser rubber washers and set push-pull adjusters correctly.. Then try tapping a third m4 hole at 120º, then... etc etc.

HTH

I use the TS two screw compression ring adapter and think maybe I unevenly over tightened the two thumb screws. 
stars were good before using the filter and mirror baffle so  that was my first thought. With the nights getting cooler I think the plastic baffle will be spandex/contract etc.

21 hours ago, Stefan73 said:

Both astap and siril have basic tilt measuring functionality, are free and multiplatform.  Siril has the tilt command and astap has it as part of its image inspection functionality.

I’ll have to check that out in Siril. I’m assuming it works when doing love stacking! I use Siril for color calibration and background extraction.

Yeah I was thinking that too, or not seated in the focuser centered. I use a PlayerOne camera and it has three screws to adjust tilt, might have to try that.

I like the spikes and love my 130pds. I’ve 
been having issues lately where the stars are round and sharp on one side and fuzzy out of focus on the other side. I have sie my time with collimation and focusing with a bahtinov mask. Not sure if this is due to using my CLS filter and or the mirror baffle. Waiting for a clear night to remove the filter and see if it makes a difference. Will also remove the primary for cleaning and check the baffle. 

Another 2h40m of 120s subs added, now roughly 11hrs and hoping for more when the sky clears again.

Only 3h15min on NGC7635 Bubble nebula, no filter unfortunately. Still, surprised I even got this much with the PlayerOne Neptune C and nearby full moon.

M33 From last week before the bright moon got in the way. About 8hrs total of 180 & 300s subs.

saw eq5 and 130pds, PlayerOne Neptune C camera.

I forgot to add The Eagle Nebula image.

Some images of very short imaging sessions over past two weeks, mainly due to guiding and mount issues. I also wanted to see if my PlayerOne camera does well on nebulae, the Veil Nebula was less than 20min of data. 
I also imaged my fave dso type, star clusters, M10-M14 as well as M71. 

12 hours ago, bosun21 said:

Which one of the player one cameras do you recommend for someone moving from visual into AP? with a 130PDS.

Depends on what you want to image. PlayerOne has released a couple of new cameras with larger sensor, the Saturn uses the square format imx533 which I hope to get when it’s in my budget.

For planets I’d say the smaller sensor would be better. Exposure times will depend on if you’re guiding or not.

1 hour ago, Ratlet said:

Cheers Rob and Bib.  That's what I thought you had 😊.

I'm planning broadly the same thing when I eventually get the 130pds later this year (nice thing about being this far north, there is [removed word] all actual night).

From what I've read the tilt issues with the baader mpcc are largely due to the slope on the cc and the 2 screws on the SW focus tube.  I was going to upgrade to focus tube to have a compression anyway.

How you getting on with the player one camera Rob?  They look excellent and I think for a lot of people they'll be a major upgrade from DSLR, especially in cooler climates.  I'm think of the Saturn, though maybe next year.

I love the PlayerOne camera, I have the Neptune C and plan on getting the new Saturn C (imx533 sensor). As for tilt, the PlayerOne has screws to adjust tilt.

My M51 was taken with PlayerOne, 60s subs for 10.5hrs total.

11 hours ago, Ratlet said:

Could explain how you've got your imaging train setup to get focus without massive ptrusion into the tube or post a picture of how it is different?

As I understand it you're new setup allowed you to put the baader cc further into the focus tube so it needs to be wound in less?

Are you still using a compression fitting to hold the cc or is it all screwed together?

Is this with your osc or DSLR?

I am using a compression fitting, and my camera is the PlayerOne Neptune C. I swapped the m42 extension for m48 and removed the m48 knurled Baader ring. This allows the cc to go further into the focus tube roughly 10mm. The m48 extension ring is now held by the compression ring , instead of the cc. I have a step down m48 to m42 connecting the m48 to the camera., back focus is 57.5mm

In this image I have tape on the m48 extension to roughly mark the focus point.

I bought some m48 extensions and removed the Baader m48 collar. It makes a huge difference, the focus tube ow only protrudes about 7mm into the ota. Im glad I tried this first before chopping the focus tube.

First image before doing flocking, primary baffle and 10mm m48 extension. Second image after all mods and m48.

Finally going to tackle some improvements to my 130, I’ve ordered flocking material and will also order the TS flange to cover the mirror clips.

 I might also chop down the focus tube. I have to first find the focus distance for using my 1100d canon, already marked the location using my OSC camera. 
I figure since I’ll have to take the scope apart I might as well make all the mods at the same time. 

My last imaging session in April before packing and moving I spent collecting 10.5 hrs of data on M51 using my new camera, the PlayerOne Neptune C 178c.

10.5 hrs of 1 min subs captured over three days.

130pds/eq5 synscan 

6 hours ago, Bibabutzemann said:

Thanks! I dont do it too often too. I think its a way more interesting target for longer focal length.

Image rotation would work, because there is a lock ring. But you have to refocus for every rotation and when you want to change the filter on top of the CC, you need to unscrew to whole thing...Doesnt sound very  comfortable to use, but might be worth it.

Could be worth a try later. I plan on getting a dedicated OSC camera sometime soon and will see if I have the same problem once I get the correct back focus set. 
I’m still working on guiding and dithering. Guiding was kinda ok but my first time dithering was 50/50. Still a lot to learn but I’m enjoying it.

On 13/03/2022 at 09:51, Bibabutzemann said:

Could be collimation or tilting issue. This is how i approach that issue.

Anyone tried one of these? https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/language/en/info/p5417_Lacerta-Schraubadapter-fuer-Baader-Komakorrektor-an-Skywatcher-Newtons.html

 

Moon, lucky imaging, Canon 1200D

It was windy, but the seeing was good. (16:9 crop cause i love Moon Shots as Wallpapers) 

 

I had looked for something like that to attach the CC and camera  to have a treaded image train, without using thumbscrews or compression rings. 
I’m curious too if anyone had used this method.

only issue would be the camera rotation 

Awesome moon image btw. It’s been a while since I last imaged the moon.

1 hour ago, Heizel said:

Compression rings are also not a best way. Try to drill a third hole in a stock part and add a another screw. That may help 

The compression ring actually is working much better. The stock ring would get loose  and not stay screwed on tight. 
i don’t think it would cause only one corner to have elongated stars. But I could be wrong lol

What would cause the stars in only one corner to be elongated? I know if it’s only one side, top and bottom, then it’s an off center issue. I already installed the TS Optics compression ring which took care of that problem, but I still get some bad stars only in one corner. One time it’s in the lower left, then it’s to the lower right side. The stars in the rest of the corners are round. 
The imaging train has not been touched, canon t3 with MPCC.

We had a couple of hours of clear skies the other night so I rushed to set up at 10pm to try and get some imaging in, but of course the clouds rolled in sooner.

 I did manage about a half hour on M38. I had wanted to take different exposure times to see how how long I could get before the stars got ugly. I got as far as 30s due to clouds lol.

Here is 59x30s at iso 1600.

Eq5,SW130pds, canon 1100d.

darks and bias, no flats

 I stacked using both DSS and APP and found I got better results with APP, which I will buy once the trial time is up.

Another image from last week, M108 & M97, but this time I used APP and gimp. 

I’ve been wanting to image these two together and finally managed to get a decent image.

130pds, eq5 

canon 1100d, 95x45s, iso 1600

I finally managed a first light  with my new 130pds and so far I love the scope.

 I only had about three hours of clear skies and after a quick set up in the dark I played around a bit.

 I mainly wanted to use the time in order to get the collimating and focusing done, check the scope balance and how the mount was tracking.

Balance was not that great, I’ll have to rotate the tube so the dslr is at the bottom. My 30s exposures weren’t too bad but 60s or more started showing some trailing.

My guide scope arrives today and hopefully I’ll practice guiding this weekend.

M42

Eq5/sw130pds w/ Baader mpcc mk3

canon 1100d

28x30s at iso 1600

Thanks TGB

might have those on Friday or Saturday, and of course a bright moon to light the sky.