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ninjageezer

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Posts posted by ninjageezer

  1. Has anyone got a good how on this subject please. Ive watched a few YouTube videos and either the software needed is not available or some other issue.

    I have a Samsung s20fe and it wont take a 360 panorama so need other software for that also.

    my back yard has a few trees and nearby buildings that get in the way so after 18 months of imaging I have finally decided to make a custom landscape.

    • Like 1
  2. The other consideration is the USB printer cable is a looser push fit.  Whereas the USB serial cables connect to the handset port  - with a click in connection that is less likely to get pulled out in usage.

     

    This was my main concern ... i have been on usb for the last year but did start out on Eqmod......wanted the general consensus .

  3. Ok so after seeing some great reviews of the new QHY5III715C camera i thought i would give it a go on the moon and maybe a couple of the larger planets as i have a 2.5 powermate to bump up the FL. im just a bit unsure as how to set it up as normally i have a large sensor poseidon C on the back of the scope.

    i had a quick go outside this evening but could not even see vega,moon was too low to try and get a focus.

    i just had the 2 inch to 1.25 adapter screwed into the scope and the camera slid into this ,i may try in the day tomorrow as i got nowhere....please advise where i am going wrong.

    and yes i do realise this is not an ideal scope for planetary work ,i do plan to get one i just wanted to do some lunar and some observing as i seem to have some clear skys when the moon is out .....

  4. On 31/05/2023 at 21:46, pmlogg said:

    OK. 

    The ZWO OAG-L 68mm is the other one that I was looking at.  It has a big mirror too, but the rectangular format of the Player One would be a good match for my guider.

    Thanks

    no worries i think on youtube maybe the man to ask .lukimoto ,,,i know he uses it.

  5. 17 minutes ago, Aramcheck said:

    I've used it for about 3+ years with a Baader MKIII coma corrector, initialy with a Canon 600D (astromodified) and more recently with a ZWO 2600 MC-PRO.
    (Many images taken with it here: https://www.astronomyleeds.org.uk/gal/gallery.html )

    I'm happy with it, though I've done various mods - flocked the OTA; replaced the focuser with a Baader Steeltrack; fitted a primary aperture mask; replaced the primary clips/springs as suggested on the SGL; and painted the secondary rear/sides matt black.

    The only other scope I've used is a 130pds, but I prefer to use the 200pds unless it's too windy.

    Cheers
    Ivor

    wow some very nice images. are all these taken with the 200pds .your juper and saturn are superb.

    can i ask why you replaced the focuser ,i plan to use the ZWO EAF and player one Poseidon c pro .APS-C plus a ZWO filter.

  6. 10 hours ago, vlaiv said:

    well, don't use reducer.

    I was also going to ask - why limit to 1000mm.

    That is not galaxy FL with APS-C sized sensor. Most galaxies are small enough to fit central 1/5th of sensor or there about at 1000mm.

    There will be a lot of sensor "wasted" on surrounding space. 2000mm is quite decent FL - and you don't need reducer for galaxies - again same reason - even without one, there will be still plenty of surrounding space captured for context.

    thank you 

  7. 6 hours ago, vlaiv said:

    Why is that?

    I was going to recommend EdgeHD 8" as potential candidate - but since you have one, what makes it unsuitable?

    it causes some outer edge issues with vignetting and poor stars ,apparantly it does not play well with APS-C or full frame cameras....especially when used with the reducer...

  8. 1 hour ago, wimvb said:

    The reason I didn’t recommend it is that it isn’t a beginner’s scope. Imo, it’s better to have some experience with a standard Newtonian before tackling the MN190. It’s also heavy, compared to a standard Newtonian (not necessarily if compared to a large apo), and better suited for a permanent setup.

    It’s wobbly until you manage to fix the extension tube. Shimming it solves the issue. But yes, this shouldn’t be necessary to begin with.

    I have a Feathertouch on order to replace the stock focuser. Ordered it last August and so far hasn’t materialised.

    I used to have 250 newt .collimation was very easy on that. but yes i agree it should be necessary on the MN190.

    this is what he has ordered.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144895854948?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=c2lihuirrvk&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=QgHl1DARS2y&var=444115764875&widget_ver=artemis&media=MORE

    along with this: https://www.deepspaceproducts.com/product/starlight-instruments-adapter-2-for-mk190-maksutov-newtonian-intes-alter-mn84-mak-newton-es8-astrograph

    will see how it is when its done.

    • Like 1
  9. 7 minutes ago, Elp said:

    Refractors are easiest but expensive for this sort of focal length, so newt or SCT probably the way to go (from my experience SCT does sometimes give soft focus likely temperature related). What about a 200PDS? The price difference will allow purchase of a good coma corrector.

    200pds is on the shortlist ..i have an edgehd 8 but not very suited to my APS-C camera and i did get it last year for planetary ,but i think i will sell it .only used it in sept/oct last year sat here doing nothing.

  10. 19 minutes ago, ollypenrice said:

    I'd consider the MN190 as well as a Newt.  Because I don't like endless fiddling with optics I would second Wim's advice in favour of F5 for a Newt. The Quattro can be be made to work but it won't necessarily be easy.

    Olly

    I like the MN190 a friend has one but the focuser is a terrible wobbly bit of kit .

  11. Ok so thinking of a new scope around maybe 1000mm FL for galaxies.

    camera is a APS-C size imx571 sensor . 

    the simpler the better i must be able to acheieve i good flat field .(hate bad stars on edge lol)

    i have EQ6R pro mount .

    i can go up to 2k ..

    currently use a 400 mm refractor for nebula 

  12. 11 hours ago, Laurin Dave said:

    Indeed I do..  focuser could be better though in terms of flex 

    Can I ask what camera you use is it APS-C size or full frame. and are you happy with the edge to edge stars.

    I'm beginning to think I have an issue with mine, got anther couple of hours in last night and got nowhere. I had the Z73 before this same camera no issues at all.

  13. On 26/02/2023 at 11:03, david_taurus83 said:

    I should add that when I had my GT71 and Flat6AII I never got perfect corners with either 600D or 1600MM. I was forever chasing it and changing back spacing. It's a road to madness!

    not want i want to hear lol,wish i had kept the Z73 lol....perfect corners using the field flattener on that .

  14. 2 hours ago, StevieDvd said:

    The camera fitted in the pictures looks like it has tilt adjusters in case that's an issue for @ninjageezer I could be mistaken though.

    the camera does have tilt adjusters ,why is this an issue ? they are not adjusted for anything currently.....i thought the idea of tilt adjusters was a bonus ? sorry i must be missing something....

  15. On 26/02/2023 at 10:33, Laurin Dave said:

    As @scotty38 says to start with you need to adjust the flattener to 9.1mm.  I found with mine that in-order to fine tune the flattener spacing (from 9.1) I needed to remove the rotator to get some extra back focus.  Once I'd got the spacing correct I put the rotator back and all was fine. Hopefully be the same with yours

    Do you currently have a GT71 

  16. On 26/02/2023 at 10:18, scotty38 said:

    As you know, I think, you need the 55mm from the back of the Flat6A to the sensor and then, for the GT71, you need the Flat6A adjusting to 9.1mm.

    Looking at your image it doesn't look like it's anywhere near that setting, looks closer to 0mm, is that how you have it?

    the locking ring is at about 0 thats what you can see..

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