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Everything posted by spacebloke

  1. Hi folks, Whilst looking through ebay for some photographic bits and pieces I came across this and I thought I'd share it with you http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PHOTO-LIGHT-BOX-White-Daylight-Studio-Background-Photography-Portable-Lightbox-/360692557239?pt=UK_Photography_Lighting_Kits&hash=item53faf3a5b7. Looks good for taking flats. Cheers Stuart
  2. Hey Mark, The build went well. Haven't had chance to test it out in the field yet though. Glad you're having a good holiday.
  3. Good idea, I'll try that. Stuart
  4. Hi, Can someone tell me if this would be suitable for use with a synguider? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Cigarette-Lighter-Power-Cord-Charger-Cable-1-2M-5-5MM-X-2-1MM-DC-PLUG-LED-/321045569659?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4abfcea07b Cheers Stuart
  5. Cheers Steve, I just wanted to know as I use the polar alignment tool on eqmod to help me setup. Stuart
  6. Hi all, In order to keep my setup as simple as possible I have bought a synguider. Would I be able to still use eqmod at the same time? Stuart
  7. Good Afternoon everyone, Would somebody be able to recommend me a dovetail bar I could use with my heq5? I need it to hold an st80 and a dslr camera side by side. Thanks Stuart
  8. Hi Nebula, glad you liked it . It did cost quite a lot, probably close to £160. But the box alone was £37 inc P+P. It is definitely a good thing to do if you want to do imaging. Stuart
  9. Hi William, Thanks for reminding me. I drilled a hole each side of the battery and fed clear plastic tube though. However I might make additional hole for extra ventelation. Stuart
  10. Final part now. Now it's time to connect the isolator switch to the fuse box. I forgot to take a picture of this but it's basically the thicker 17.5amp wire with a 10mm ring connector one end and a 6mm ring connector the other. (remember to put the loose heat shrink over the wire beforehand as it won't fit over once you've soldered the ring connectors on). I'm sure there are lots of fuse boxes out there and I don't know (at all) the difference between them. This one was recomended to me, so this is the one I've got. It is a 6 way fuse box with leds, these light up so you can tell which fuse has blown. They take standard blade fuses and are connected via spade connectors. Originally I had planned to use 2 3amp fuses and 1 4amp fuse for my mount. Unfortunately the 4amp fuse was too thick to fit the fuse box so I went with all 3amp ones. I'm not sure whether they are all made like that or if I just got a dodgy fuse. This final part of the build is fairly simple, I just cut 3 of the 8amp wire and solderd spade connectors to each end (again, not forgetting to out the spade connector cover on before). Pictures 10 and 11 show the wire pre and post heat shrink (please forgive the quality of soldering as I've never done it before). Well that's it, finished! Pictures 12,13 and 14 show the finished powertank (I forgot to put the cover on the fuse box ) As you can tell it's quite a bit bigger than the 7ah celestron one. So looking back was this build a success and am I glad I took the leap and did it? DEFINITELY! I know nothing at all about electronics, I have never soldered before and my general diy skills are comical! But with some help from people on this forum I have managed it and I hope this thread inspires people to try and make there own. I'd like to give a special thanks to Mark (lardy) for all of his help and patience throughout this project. Oh yeah...... Forgot to mention....... It works! I tried each socket with my Heq5 pro (not out in the field yet). The led light is solid with no flickering even at maximum slew rate. Cheers for reading, and please ask if you have any question (not technical ones though ). Stuart
  11. Hi again, back with the final couple of posts. Right.... So at the moment the negative side of the powertank is complete, I can move on to the posotive side. Because safety was a concern of mine I wanted to fit an isolator switch, this means I can cut the power whenever I want. It also allows me to isolate one socket and use that purely for charging whilst the rest of the tank is unpowered. Pictures 7,8 and 9 shows the first section of wiring (battery to isolator switch and charging socket). The 17.5amp wire goes from the battery, through the battery connector and cover, this then attaches to a 10mm ring connector. The ring connector is going to be fitted to one end of the isolator switch. Also coming from the ring connector is some of the 8amp wire, which will be connected to the charging socket via a spade connector. Don't forget to tin all of the wire first. please make sure you make sure the wire is correct length first (something I forgot to do myself. This meant I had to solder two pieces together and seal them with heat shrink. Picture 9 shows the tank with these wires connected. Stuart
  12. Right, next part - The build! First off was to drill the holes for the cigarette sockets and isolator switch. This was done with a 29mm boring bit (I bought a cheap one on ebay for about £1.70 inc delivery). When the box arrived it already had some dense foam inside. Initially I thought about removing this this to provide more space. Luckily the space between the foam fitted the battery perfect so I left it. The first step was to prepare and attach the wire. I decided to do the negative side first. Please bear in mind that I have never tinned wire and soldered before so it looks a little rough. Picture number 4 show the 17.5amp wire (labelled 'heavy wire in the written diagram). this wire was 'tinned', where you cover the wire in solder to improve the connection (at least that's what I think it's for). The wire is looped round the battery connection through the battery connector and the cover and into the terminal. This is the only 17.5amp black wire (negative) used. Picture 5 shows the 8amp wire during the preperation stage. The wire is tinned and soldered to the spade connector. Then the spade cover goes over and then the heat shrink. I don't have a heat gun so I used a hair dryer to seal the heat shrink. One end of the wire goes into the terminal block and the other into one of the cigarette sockets. Picture 6 is the illustrates the powertank once all the negative connections have been completed. Back later, with how I connected the isolator switch and the positive connections. Stuart
  13. Hi Everyone , Like alot of people on this forum and in the amateur astro community as a whole I think that a large AH powertank is the way to go. So, I looked througout the forums for ideas, but couldn't find anything that told me what exactly I needed and exactly how to build it. I thought the best thing to do is just to ask someone. so, I got into contact with Mark (sgl member Lardy) for advise on this project. He gave me a full parts list and a diagram for how to put it together. Not knowing anything at all about electronics, I asked that he make it more of an 'idiots guide to building a powertank'. I then layed out all of the parts as labelled in the diagram. Stuart
  14. nevermind about the above. Just tried my Heq5 with the 3amp fuse and it works fine. Going to get started with the write up now. It will be in a new thread so check it out
  15. would a 3amp blade fuse be enough for a heq5?
  16. Are blade fuses all meant to be the same thickness? Im trying to fit some fb3 and fb4 fuses, the fb3 ones fit fine but the fb4 one is too thick.
  17. Hey Scott, just had a look at the back of my power cable for the laptop and it says, Input - 1.7a Output - 3.5a This sounds a little low to me if yours is drawing 5a Stuart
  18. Bryan, this is the fusebox the power is going through http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1439.l2649 and these are the fuses http://www.vehicle-w...fuses/fuses.php It's the standar ones i'm using, 4amp for the mount and 3amps for everything else. The charging socket is purely for charging and nothing else. I might change the connections to the battery at some point, but at the moment they seem very secure.
  19. The cable coming from the battery to the terminal and fusebox is 17amp wire, is this not enough? The car terminal connectors were recommended by Mark (lardy) on this forum. He used them on his powertank also. The connection looks quite secure now I've tightened it up. Where would an inline fuse go? This is a diagram of where everything is going to go inside the box. The heavy red wire is 17amp and the light wire is 8amp
  20. To be honest hazegood i'm not entirely sure what its for. I just know mark said it needed to be there. Scott, I'm taking pictures throughout my progress and I plan to do a dedicated thread about the build. It's for people (like me) who want a leisure battery powertank but don't really have the electronical know how to take the leap and build one. Stuart
  21. Hi Scott, It's 17amp wire coming from the battery. That then goes to the terminal, then from the terminal it's 8amp wire to the sockets. I've been working closely with Mark (lardy) on this project as I have no electrical knowledge whatsoever. He basically wrote down everything that I needed and drew me a diagram for how to put it together. Cheers Stuart
  22. Thanks Alan, yep the cover is for the battery. Stuart
  23. Hi folks, I'm currently building my first powertank (full write up with pictures coming soon). I'm connecting the negative side up first and just wanted to know if this looks correct. Many thanks, Stuart
  24. Nice job neighbour . I'm building my own powertank over the next few weeks (with a lot of assistance for electrical minded people!). Stuart
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