Michael Keo

51 minutes ago, bobro said:

Refractor telescopes bend light depending on wavelength. IR wavelengths can result in slightly out of focus images with refractors, hence the need for IR cut filters. Reflectors don't have this issue, hence an IR cut filter isn't so necessary to stop this.

A CLS filter attempts to cut light wavelengths from local light pollution, so can be used for imaging galaxies where colour reproduction is important.

UHC filters (not all are the same)  limit wavelengths to the blue and red part of the spectrum. This is good for imaging emission nebulae as these produce mainly red and blue wavelengths, but not so good for galaxies where the wider wavelengths/colours are not passed.

Hope this helps.

Cheers.

at the moment I’m using a 50mm lens and I’ve got a 200mm Takumar Pentax lens so I don’t really know if I could get any decent galaxy’s at that focal length so I think I’ll go for a CLS?

I do have a 150pl reflector but I only have to look at it on my eq3-2 mount and it starts wobbling ha.

Hi,

im looking into getting a  light pollution filter for my modded 100D,

ive read some things on here saying that I’m best going for a UHC clip in filter and then others advising getting a CLS CCD filter?

also says that I want one with an IR cut?

The IR cut one confuses me though because why have a modded a camera to then get a clip in filter that cuts the IR again?

Thanks in advance for clearing it up for me!!

Thank you both for your replies, I’ll look get that adobe bridge as it will be handy

Hi everyone, 

I’m very new to all this astrophotography and astronomy in general and I have a few questions regarding DSS and workflow.

firstly I read that you can  add new stacking data  to already stacked pictures in DSS, is that right or do you have to restack the older data with the new?

The new data that you want to stack does it have to be the same ISO, exposure, f ratio  and same lens or can you add different bits?

Second question, how do you all go about sorting images as you are snapping away?

is there a way of sorting lights darks bias frames into folders on your SDcard, especially if your shooting multiple targets, doing test shots at different ISO’s and all that jazz.

 Or do just simply jot it all down with a pen and paper?

thanks in advance 
 

michael

7 minutes ago, Alien 13 said:

I still use my EQ3-2 as a DSLR tracking mount with the single axis motor, can use it for Lunar/Planetary imaging with my 90mm Mak or DSLR with lens.

Its performance is OK for me as I dont normally go above 150mm f/f. but as a rough guide I can get around 90s with 330mm f/l and several hours if I wanted at 17mm f/l.

As for the tripod I always use it at its min height and again its fine, of course a RA polarscope and DSLR with a flippy screen makes this easy and one other plus for me is that it can be run off a cheap mobile phone power bank.

Alan

Thanks Alan, that fills me with hope. So do you think it’s not worth getting the dual axis? Just the R.A and use a ball head mount.

how do I go about running it off a mobile phone power bank and how much tracking time does 1 charge get you?

27 minutes ago, happy-kat said:

Your telescope is great on planets and you don't have to have tracking for that, through it makes it easier. For planets it's video generally taken, do you know if the camera you bought supports video crop mode?

You don't have to use a telescope for deep space objects as many are rather large, this blog is using vintage camera lens bought used. Link here

cheers. That link is great, I have a canon 100d Astro modded with a baader cover. What would I need to attach vintage lenses to that 

31 minutes ago, steppenwolf said:

This is the right advice.

I would not recommend motorizing the the EQ3-2 - too many compromises. Instead, using your DSLR and a camera lens on a Star Adventurer mount would give you a good feel for whether astrophotography is for you or not.

Whatever you do, don't underestimate the importance of the mount in astrophotography - it is the single most important component in any imaging system.

Would you not motorise even if it was just used with the dslr and no 150pl?

11 minutes ago, Tim said:

You will never regret buying the best mount you can afford is the only advice I can give.

Once your mount is solid, stable, and reliable, the rest just comes together so much more easily. Hope that makes sense?

 

Tim

Thanks for replying Tim, yes that makes perfect sense.  Its just at the min it’s still a new hobby and even though I’d love to blow a grand or so on a boss mount, I don’t think the missus would be too impressed ha

Thanks for replying.

yes I would get the enhanced dual motors for the eq3-2.

im just unsure about buying them if I can’t use the scope with it and it’s no good for a dslr on it’s own aswel.

good idea about the sand, might give that a try.

my missus might not appreciate the sand all round the living room tho hah

thanks again!

Hi everyone, 

ive just started out with astronomy/ astrophotography.

last year I bought a Sky Watcher 150PL that came with the standard EQ3-2 and then this month I’ve just bought an Astro modded dslr. 
im quite keen to get some tracking sorted, either buy the motors for my mount or buy a star adventurer or something.

im aware that the eq3-2 mount would struggle to move the 150PL as it is 1200mm long.

my question is would it still be decent enough to put my dslr on and get some good star tracking?

or is it best to just get a star adventurer and save up for a better mount for the 150PL.

Or have any of you guys successfully got some good tracking with a 150pl paired with the eq3-2

thanks in advance