FiveByEagle

Sh2-157, as designated in the Sharpless Catalog, is an emission nebula located in the constellation Cassiopeia approximately 8,000 light-years distant. The small open cluster of stars located in the upper right of the image is designated NGC 7510 and lies approximately 11,400 light-years away. The small bright nebular object just below the "blue left pincher" is designated Sharpless 157a. It is a nebula surrounding the Wolf Raynet star WR-157. The image above was compiled from narrow band filtered exposures to create a mapped color depiction of the nebula. The standard Hubble pallet of Sulfur-II mapped to red, Hydrogen-Alpha mapped to green, and Oxygen-3 mapped to blue was utilized for the image. Processed in Pixinsight and Photoshop. For this image, I traveled about 25 minutes from my house to a public park that has skies half the brightness of home, and imaged this for about 5.4 hours. Gear: QHY533M CFW3 Antlia 4.5nm NB filters Flat6AIII GT81IV EQ6-R NINA+Sharpcap+Pixinsight

These summer nights… 🤯 First light with the QHY 533M and CFW. Was able to get a combined 4.8 hours of SHO data on this region in northern Cygnus. Filters are Antlia Edge 4.5nm. Absolutely impressed so far. QHY533M CFW3 ZWO LRGB filters Antlia 4.5nm NB filters Flat6AIII GT81IV EQ6-R NINA+Sharpcap+Pixinsight

I do have an AstroZap false star, but the issue is distance. Its been heavy rain so there is not even the option of rolling the scopes outside, and I live in the city so I can MAYBE 30 feet of travel to use it.

OAG's are what I use. I do not prefer On-Axis, and its been 26 months since losing a sub to a guiding error. It works without flaw, and will never be removed. Also. 2" EFW bolts directly to the 2600, which the OAG-L bolts directly to it.. there is no "removing" it that would not result in exactly where I am at now. The tilt plate would need to be re-located again... thus putting me right back to where I am now. This issue started with me relocating it once, and being unable to get it back to square. This would just be me doing that, with the added benefit of downgrading my guiding. No can do.

I am seeing these, however not sure how to jig up the entire setup for this. It would have to be the entire OAG,EFW,2600 on this platform and getting it correctly built.

It could be either. You have to remove the tilt plate from the 2600 and mount it to the OAG-L.

OAG remains. Guidescopes are not my speed. What else? Has anyone use the tilt adjust on these?

No plans of going back to a guide-scope or adding/removing any components.

Hello all! Got my GT81IV-Flat6AIII+OAG-L-EFW 2"-2600MC rig going, and so far it has been a nightmare. Installing the OAG-L and moving the M48 tilt plate from the camera to the OAG, I have been almost completely unable to fix the tilt I am experiencing. Using ASTAP and Hocus Focus to try and diagnose the issues but with little to no progress. Step one was to place the flattener as close to the "recommended spec" as possible - knowing that it could be way off. When it was attached the stars in about 1/3rds of the image were OK (fairly round, within my own margin of "screw it") but 2/3rds were in lines pointing outward. Using my backfocus chart, I see this typically means I am too close to the flattener. Move it back 1.5mm and now only half of the stars were bad! Closer... Realized the bad half was coma shaped so I assumed tilt from the OAG. Frankly everything else is hard bolted together so I can not imagine tilt from the EFW region. The 3 tilt adjustment screws are in odd places imo to adjust the 4 corners of the sensor. I tried my very best but it is still wildly out. In fact, now all my stars are kinda wonky so I obviously made it worse. However there is zero documentation for this gear, so what am I supposed to do? Not wing it? I usually average about 3 clear nights a month, and so far have spent 6 trying to solve this and have not captured an image since last December. Really losing my patience trial and erroring without any sense of progress. Question 1 - Are there any great resources online on fixing tilt with the OAG-L's tilt plate? Or adjusting tilt in general? Not sure how my changes are making no difference. I am not buying anything else to make this work. Zero AP purchases until 2023, so we are making it work with the gear I own. (which is all the correct stuff anyway, its just misaligned) Question 2 - I am located in Indiana. I am willing to pay someone to come and fix it, perfect it, lock it down and guarantee it. If anyone has a lead here, let me know. Sadly our local astronomy group in Fort Wayne is worse than useless for anything of a modern or technically oriented nature. Question 3: Is there anything that can be done for this issue during the day? Wasting clear sky time is seriously heartbreaking. There have been a total of 9 clear nights in Fort Wayne since Jan 1 2022. 8 of them have produced zero images due to this ONE issue, and that one was a 2 hour SHO trial (that worked and came out gorgeous) but it is still not worthwhile until I get back to a 50% K/D here.

Dust but that was it. Scopes are stored outside and I use a filter drawer, so there is an occasional opening to the air.

Yep lol Bought everything specifically to avoid it actually... I removed the camera to clean the sensor window, and that is when I saw that the edges of my focuser are not black but a reflective metal material. Might get a wax pen or something and cover that.

Filters are all 2" - M42 OAG and M42 filter drawer.

100% I do believe that was my issue on an old rig, but on this new one flats are taken after PA but before the sequence, so focus should be identical. I started doing this because of exactly what you said.

Hello! 2600MC -

That is what I called it in my post though?