Tak120

Thanks and understood. I took my first set of dark flats last night with N.I.N.A. which BTW is really slick and easy. So, I now have a comprehensive set of darks, dark flats, flats and bias calibration frames. With dark flats for my CMOS cam, do I also need to use bias frames in pre-processing? I've heard conflicting views on that topic.

Thanks for the replies, everyone! That confirms what I thought. I need to match the subs with any filters used during the imaging session to the corresponding dark frames with the same , temperature, etc. Got it. That's what I'm doing now. Star Forming - you said that it was one more reason to use bias frames. Could you amplify a little on that comment?

I'm a long time amateur but a relatively new imager. I have a Tak120 on a EQ6R-Pro mount with a full frame QHY367PRO-C OSC along with several other accessories including an IDAS NB-1 tri-band filter that's in a single filter drawer in the image train in front of the camera sensor and behind my Tak TOA-35 reducer/flattener. I've been building a library of calibration frames for various temperatures, exposure times, gain/offset, etc. I have a basic question. Do I need to take a separate set of dark frames when I shoot with the IDAS filter? Since the sensor is blocked with the scope cap and you're shooting darks, I don't see why it would be necessary to take separate darks if you add a filter but I may not be understanding something here. I've read conflicting advice about the need to take a separate set of darks with a filter/OSC combo as well as a mono/filter combo. Some people have said that you need to take new darks for every filter and others have said you just need to take one set of darks for all mono filters. I'm just about to pull the trigger on a QHY600MM-PH so my question is relevant to that scenario too. I tried searching but couldn't find a thread on this although I'm sure this issue has been discussed. My apologies if it has. Thanks. Paul State of Washington, USA