catalinc

On 04/09/2012 at 01:21, JamesF said:

It's more complicated than that with a Mak. Effectively you move the image plane to be where you need it (ie on the camera sensor) rather than moving the camera sensor to meet the fixed image plane as you would with a 'frac or newt.

I don't know about the 90, but I took this picture today to show someone else how I connect up my 450D and 127 Mak. The EOS<->T ring converter goes straight on the visual back. Does that help at all?

James

Hello,

May I ask you, please, for some details about the motorization you added for the focuser?

I have a SkyMax 102 and I'm interested to do something similar for it.

Thanks in advance.

Catalin

22 hours ago, happy-kat said:

This is the L bracket in Steve's photo.

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/alt-azimuth/skywatcher-l-bracket-dovetail.html

Ball head is any camera ball head with suitable pay load, I got one on amazon that can take 8 kilos for about 15GBP. Though I now use a dove bar instead with a camera quick release plate attached as this provides better balance on my mount.

I use a red dot flash shoe finder base, you'll find a suitable finder base on ebay or similar mine looks maybe 3d printed. I can use this to align for the go to when using the camera as that was what I had. Perhaps you can find a flash shoe mount for the finder you already have with your telescope.

Great, thanks a lot.. Looking forward to get a nice photo of M13 with that 🙂.

On 31/12/2016 at 11:38, SteveNickolls said:

happy-kat,

Here's my way of mounting the Canon camera, I use an L bracket and a ball joint to provide very accurate alignment with the finder scope. I use a quick release plate too. The attachment piece between the camera hot shoe and finder scope works very well. I've found there's no re-alignment needed at each session as I dismantle only the quick release plate separating camera from the L bracket on the mount. I haven't experienced any issues with balancing the camera and that's even been when using the 75-300mm lens shown.

I have recently purchased BYEOS so can control imaging from the laptop set up in the kitchen overlooking the imaging spot. I've also sent off for cables to extend the length of the hand controller wire to the mount. I will then have the ability to nudge objects to get best framing. I've found BYEOS to be very useful enabling multiple stacking of Live View to better see fainter objects in almost real time. BYEOS also means I get to keep a watch on each downloaded frame so don't get caught out by dewing or clouds anymore. Oh, for a touch of low tech I add a hand warmer beneath the camera lens using an elastic band and it has kept dew away.

Here's to clear, dark skies.

Cheers,
Steve

 

Hello, finding your interesting assembly by chance, by looking to build something similar for my Canon and SynScan AZ mount

Would you mind if I ask you the details about the components? 

Thanks in advance.

Best Regards,

Catalin CACIULEANU

Yes, my question was of course related to a SkyMax 102 (which I recently bought).

Sorry if it was not a clear question from my side.

Ok, I understand, thanks for feedback.

Any chance to find a Crayford focuser with a smaller diameter,  to not collide with the internal focusing knob?

Or, would it be possible/feasible to add an extension tube btw. the telecope thread and the Crayford focuser, so to take the focuser out of the area where the collision with the knob occurs?

Hello, 

And apologizing if a silly question: is it possible to remove the know of the internal focuser and so to create enough room on the backplate for installing a Crayford focuser (through a T2 to SCT adapter) ?

Thanks in advance.