Pinarello87
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Posts posted by Pinarello87
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21 hours ago, newbie alert said:
If you do a 10 sec delay in the exposures you should get a natural dither, if not then a 20 sec delay..
8 hours ago, michael8554 said:DC is tracking but not guiding, so no RA dither unless his tracking rate is way out .....
Michael
So does this mean to manually dither in RA using this 10-20sec delay is pointless? If i dither manually in dec would it be different?
Im not upgrading to guiding so soon yet. So i guess i need to do more work i guess.
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On 16/05/2019 at 04:36, wimvb said:
This is so called walking noise. It's caused by offsets between exposures. You can get rid of it if you dither between exposures (= move the mount slightly in a random ra/dec direction). For the subs you already have, use more aggressive pixel rejection while stacking.
On 16/05/2019 at 05:47, michael8554 said:Dither would do, it but I see you aren't guiding, which makes random 10 to 15 pixel moves difficult.
Michael
Thanks guys for the advice.
Cheers
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On 13/05/2019 at 21:56, tooth_dr said:
I've had this happen a few times with my EQ6, to no ill effects. It's moving at sidereal rate. I wouldnt fancy doing it when slewing at full speed.
On 14/05/2019 at 04:42, Ibbo! said:I have do it with my mount a couple of times.
I think the stepper motors effectively stall.
On 16/05/2019 at 15:40, Carbon Brush said:The great thing about stepper motors is that they do not take excessive current (and burn out) when stalled against a solid object.
With the tiny (low torque) motors used in scope mounts, there should not be an issue running slowly against a hard stop.
The Skywatcher design team should have thought about this situation and ensured the gearbox is up to handling stall torque.
On a mass produced item there is no excuse for basic design errors.
Speaking here as someone who has used stepper motors with 100x the power of mount motors on industrial machinery.Caveat - Some mounts do have tiny parts around the gearbox and bending is possible.
The (expensive) AWR drive on my D6 drive suffered a bent shaft in the gearbox after mount impact.
Cheers guys
Thanks for all your input
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Hi forum.
Need some advice from the seniors and pros. I just started AP for 2 months and am enjoying the process.
I use a Skyrover 60ED apo with FF and a optolong moon filter. Use an unguided EQ3 goto mount. Dslr is a nikon d3100.
I was imaging Centaurus A with about iso 400, 30x 45" subs. Flats biased and darks use in my image stacking with DSS. I use Gimp to do final editing.
I observed lots of uni directional lines if i pull up the levels high enough. Its all across my image. Im wondering is this some kind of fault within my image train or my dslr sensor?
P/s i was cleaning the filter and flattener so i wonder is this a smudge also?
Any ideas or experiences to ecplain? Below is a pic sample of part of the image.
Thanks much. DC
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Very well done. Perfect id say. Give hubble a run for its money
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Hello SGL. Im new in here.
I just entered AP 2 months ago. Its been a great time so far. So i hope to learn more from this forum.
I have a 60mm ED Apo on a SW EQ3 goto.
Anyway as the title suggest, i was doing a really late long night imaging from my balcony last night. I was imaging Centaurus A with my rig set for 70 x 90" subs. While waiting i kind of dozed off till several hours later.
Seeing the mount had reached its maximum RA tilt and i assume its been that for a good 2 or 3 hours with the scope right against the mount head. I quickly turned everything off. Slighlty worried.
Will this cause any damage to the RA motor? It wasnt burning hot. Just warm. I have yet to inspect and test the motor.
Advice please fellow senior forumers and AP gurus.
Thanks a bunch.
Weird Lines after Levels Adjustment
in Imaging - Image Processing, Help and Techniques
Posted
Really lots of tech talk here. I know its important to get good alignment etc.
from where I am imaging on my balcony i dont have Polaris in view and much reference stars to do a really good drift alignment (being at equator 3 degrees north). I have to take exposure subs of the brightest star i can find between 30secs to 60secs long to see where the drift goes and adjust my azimuth/altitude accordingly (this after proper leveling of mount) until i dont see any drift. Ive managed to push 90'' subs with very minimal drift noticed.
Thats the drifting alignment i do now. So far it works enough for me and i get a rather decent image of M13 like below (you will still see the walking noise there)
So with whatever i do and learn now until i get better and better I hope to digest the technicalities as I slowly progress on.
At least i know the root cause of the problem, understanding the solution to it, and then practice it every time I do my imaging.