Jump to content

sgl_imaging_challenge_2021_annual.thumb.jpg.3fc34f695a81b16210333189a3162ac7.jpg

guillespiers

Members
  • Content Count

    125
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by guillespiers

  1. On 05/03/2020 at 03:05, noah4x4 said:

    I bought my Hyperstar and Camera simultaneously and my (UK) retailer sensibly phoned Dean at Starizona to check if it needed a different adapter from tne Hyperstar in stock to achieve backfocus. It did. Four days later, I received the correct model shipped from the USA.

    Pairing camera with the correct adapter appears crucial. A phone call to Starizina should assist you.

    Thanks a lot! I recently contacted Starizona and they´ve started trying some things before trying another adapter. I personally think this will a new adapter is the adecuate solution.

  2. Hi! I am having the exact same problem, the only difference is my hyperstar is v4, but the camera (ZWO 071 MC Cooled) and it´s backfocus are the same (17.5 mm). I´ve wasted hours trying to fix coma problems with this setup, but it´s impossible.

    I took some screenshots from my laptop last night to show how serious my problem is: https://wp.me/a6SKCz-1t8

    As you may see, the star (sirius), is perfectly round in the middle, but distorts a lot on the edges. Coma points towards the center of the sensor, from any direction. This is why I´m assuming spacing is the problem.

    What should I do? How can I make sure I buy the correct spacer?

    Thanks a lot, glad you solved your problem! :D

  3. Hi everyone!

    I wonder if you could please help decide which would be my next OTA!
    I recently upgraded my Celestron Nexstar 6SE mount to a Celestron CGEM mount. I´ve been doing some planetary work with the old Nexstar 6SE, but now my main goal now is DSO. You can see some of my work in my blog: www.astrofotoperu.com

    One of the main problems with the alt-az mount was that long exposures were impossible. My personal record was 30 seconds, but from 100 shots, only 15 where usable. 

    I know the CGEM mount will help a lot on doing DSO, and that depending on the OTA I choose, I would probably need an autoguider.
    The focal length range I´m looking for should be around 600 mm and 800 mm.

    My main camera will be a Sony a7s (unmodded) which is a full frame cam, but I´ve read that most scopes won´t take full advantage over a full frame sensor, and will only reach an APSC frame size.

    So,

    Are there any 600 mm to 800 mm OTA´s out there, that can help me use the full frame sensor? I must say that I would love a refractor, but I´m open to other choices... :D

    Thanks!

  4. 8 hours ago, Stu said:

    only a few degrees outside the range, so will only need a small tilt on the tripod. Do make sure you extend the legs as wide as you can though, and the weighting idea makes sense to avoid any tipping.

    Thanks a lot Stu!

    And it´s cheaper! :D

    How can I add the weights to the mount legs? Are there any special accesories?

    Thanks!

  5. Hi everyone!

    I´m upgrading my gear to a Celestron CGEM equatorial mount. I´m sure many people here would say it´s a great mount! :D

    I have a problem related to Lima-Peru´s city latitude, which is below the mount´s latitude range (which is 15° - 70°). Lima city is at 12° latitude, any ideas on how to reach them with this mount?

    I read about this two alternatives:

    1. Extending one of the tripod´s legs to tilt the mount a little bit, adding some weights on the other 2 tripod legs to avoid the telescope to fall...

    2. Buying a wedge, which have 0° - 90° latitude range, and place the equatorial mount over it.

    What do you think?

    Thanks! :D

  6. Effectively the viewfinder on your camera acts as a ~50mm eyepiece, so yes that is a fair calculation for what you see through the finder.

    But as Olly says as far as the image on computer screen, print out or live view are concerned 90x what?

    Hi! Sorry for my late response! I left my post opened for a while, and when I pressed "post" I found like 10 more comments! I was refering to what Stub Mandrel said; trying to figure out if by using "50 mm" in the formula would help me get a magnification number, but this seems a little complex :D

  7. Magnification by M makes an object look M times closer (or 1/M times actual distance, same thing).

    Magnification by 60 makes it look 60 times closer.

    So it looks as if you are 10,500,000km away from Jupiter (not 10,500,000km closer).

    Not a silly question at all.

    Thanks a lot acey! That makes more sense :D

    And what about using only a telescope, a barlow lens, and a camera? (no eyepiece). Asuming I use a 3x barlow, I have 4500 mm of FL. How do I get the magnification number?

  8. Hi everyone!


    What is the "apparent travel in KM" that a person does by looking through a telescope?


    For example, If I were watching Jupiter with a 1500 mm focal length telescope, and a 25 mm eyepiece; how close am I getting to it in a KM scale?

    Consider Jupiter to be at an average distance of 630,000,000 km from Earth.


    Also, what will be the answer if I added a 3x barlow lens, but only use a camera (no eyepiece involved). How "close" am i getting to Jupiter to take that shot?


    Those are a silly questions, but I´m very curious!


    Thanks for your time,

    Guillermo



  9. Hi everybody, I just replaced my celestron powertank's battery with an exact model (12v 7ah). The original battery was completely dead, because I didnt recharge it frecuently. Now that I learned my lesson :D, do you have any recharge recomendations?

    I mean, if I don't have a chance to use the powertank, when should I recharge it again?

    1 time every month in summer, and 1 time every 3 months in winter?

    Even if I didn't use it?

    Thanks!

  10. Thank you all for your opinions!

    I forgot to mention that the deal is not only fot the OTA, it also includes the fork mount (alt-az), and tripod legs.

    Also, buying that scope in my country (Lima-Perú), where we don´t have any scope suppliers, would cost me a fortune. I would say at least 3000$ with shipping, and taxes. Adding a focal reducer or focuser may cost a bit more.

    This is why I am so interested! :D

    I have 2 questions:

    - Is there any significant difference between an 11" EDGE HD, and this one? Specially, if the scope will be used 75/100 for astrophotography.

    - What are the cons of using hyperstar with this scope? I read hyperstar would improve the scope´s F10 to F2, and would greatly increase it´s field of view for astrophotography.

    - By using hyperstar, some cables will block a little light from the primary mirror. Is this loss significant? If so, are there any solutions for this?

    Thanks! :D

  11. Hi everyone,

    I just received great news from a friend who is selling his CPC 1100 + celestron focal reducer 0.63 + Feather touch focuser for a total price of US$ 1500.00.

    He also told me that the telescope is Hyperstar ready.

    I now have a Nexstar 6SE + ZWO ASI 174 MC camera, which I mainly for planetary view and AP, and if the sky is good enough, for DSO + a focal 0.63x reducer.

    I´m sure this is a great deal, and a great oportunity to do an upgrade. He is a good friend of mine, and he is always very carefull with his telescope, which was bought in 2011.

    What do you think about this deal? Are there any important details that I should look out on a scope like this?

    Thanks in advance,

    Guillermo

  12. Hi everyone, I'll travel to Huaraz city (Peru's andes) this weekend, which will have very dark skies!

    Hopefully, this will be my 1st chance to take my first deep sky image, which will be M83. I've never done this before, so maybe you can give me some hints on how to do this!


    I know my gear is not the best, but in theory I know this could be possible with this:


    - Celestron Nexstar 6SE and a f6.5 focal reducer.

    - ASI 174 MC camera.

    - Firecapture software.


    I read that I need to take 200 - 400 light frames. Then, with the same settings, cover the telescope's tube, and take 20 dark frames. Finally use deepsky stacker. (Am I right?)


    My telescope's tracking mount is not precise, so I'll try my best to take centered shots.


    Thanks for any tips!

  13. Thanks a lot people! I`ve been messing a little with my images, and I`m sure that I made a mistake when I recorded those two moons up there :D. Chris, you are right, maybe I clicked the 16 bit checkbox with the red moon.

    I fixed the red moon image by debayering it in PIPP and stacking it again in autostakkert (which was also forced with the same pattern: RGGB).

    This means that I can fix any image I took from that day? Only by changing the debayer pattern?

    I read that ASI cameras work best with RG pattern... So I just saved it in Firecapture.

    Only the greenish moon hasn`t been fixed. I cannot clear that grid from it. I´ve tried a lot of debayer pattern combinations, but it`s worthless... 

    I`ll try another round this weekend on the mountains, hopefully I`ll get some good frames!

    Thanks!

    post-45578-0-05931300-1435896282_thumb.j

  14. Hi Michael! Nice to meet you! You`ll love Lima (specially the food :D). Feel free to ask me anything about your trip, maybe I can help you with anything, or recommend you some basic places to visit!

    About my problem,

    The first green image was a SER file type. I think firecapture selects it as a default extension when you choose 16 bit colour.

    This was the log file of that capture:

    FireCapture v2.4  Settings
    ------------------------------------
    Camera=ZWO ASI174MC
    Filter=L
    Profile=Moon
    Filename=Moon_195901.ser
    Date=270615
    Start=195901.651
    Mid=195916.658
    End=195931.665
    Start(UT)=005901.651
    Mid(UT)=005916.658
    End(UT)=005931.665
    Duration=30.014s
    Date_format=ddMMyy
    Time_format=HHmmss
    LT=UT -5h
    Frames captured=3212
    File type=SER
    Binning=no
    ROI=1376x864
    ROI(Offset)=188x278
    FPS (avg.)=107
    Shutter=2.063ms
    Gain=200
    USBTraffic=60
    SoftwareGain=10 (off)
    AutoExposure=off
    WRed=60
    Gamma=40
    HighSpeed=on
    WBlue=100
    Brightness=97
    Histogramm(min)=17
    Histogramm(max)=228
    Histogramm=89%
    Noise(avg.deviation)=n/a
    Limit=30 Seconds
    Sensor temperature=35,5 °C
    ****************************************
    I don`t remmember very well, but I think the second image was done with the Debayer turned "on".
    This were the settings:
    FireCapture v2.4  Settings
    ------------------------------------
    Camera=ZWO ASI174MC
    Filter=L
    Profile=Moon
    Filename=Moon_213809.avi
    Date=270615
    Start=213809.434
    Mid=213824.499
    End=213839.564
    Start(UT)=023809.434
    Mid(UT)=023824.499
    End(UT)=023839.564
    Duration=30.130s
    Date_format=ddMMyy
    Time_format=HHmmss
    LT=UT -5h
    Frames captured=3256
    File type=AVI
    Extended AVI mode=false
    Compressed AVI=false
    Binning=no
    ROI=1216x928
    ROI(Offset)=348x142
    FPS (avg.)=108
    Shutter=5.677ms
    Gain=200
    HighSpeed=on
    WRed=60
    Gamma=50
    WBlue=100
    AutoExposure=off
    USBTraffic=90
    SoftwareGain=10 (off)
    Brightness=97
    Histogramm(min)=27
    Histogramm(max)=188
    Histogramm=73%
    Noise(avg.deviation)=n/a
    Limit=30 Seconds
    Sensor temperature=35,2 °C
    Video on both cases looks fine, the colors are very natural, but they`ll get messed up when I stack the frames.
  15. Hi everyone,

    This is my first post, so I´ll start saying that my english is a little bad (but my spanish is very good :D), so please excuse me if there´s anything wrong in my writing!

    My name is Guillermo Spiers, and I´ve been doing planetary astrophotography over the last 2 years. A couple of weeks ago, I "jumped" to the webcam world with a new ZWO ASI 174 MC (color). It´s an amazing camera :D I´m now using it with Firecapture.

    My normal capure method is:

    - Firecapture

    - PIPP (if telescope was to schaky)

    - Autostakkert

    - Registax (wavelets)

    The thing is that my final images look with a green, red, or sometimes grey grid. If you zoom the image, it will be more evident. This happens despite having a good image on firecapture´s preview screen

    What is this grid? Are all my videos compromised with this?

    I read something about a "Debayer" function which may be involved, but I don´t understand when or how is this affecting my videos.

    If I open the AVI files on windows media player, they all look black and white (this is because they´re not debayered... I supose?)

    I´ve tried firecapture debayer, PIPP, and autostakkert but I´m still getting the same grid. It´s like the program is messing with the real colors.

    I´ve attached 2 pictures as a reference. The "greenish one contains the "grid" that I mentioned, and the "redish" one shouldn´t be red of course :D

    The camera is fine, but I don´t know what I´m doing wrong, please help! :D

    post-45578-0-01864400-1435793536_thumb.j

    post-45578-0-03175400-1435793541_thumb.j

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.