conehead

January 12, 2016

Hi,

i´d like to share my experience. i did many tests with different canon dslr sensors and it seems that every sensor is a little different with scratching. i didn´t get a real good result. either the sensor was death or had sratches, but no one was useful. so i start to give the polish method a try. What can i say? every sensor i debayered was a fully success. so here is my howto list:

- remove the sensor and the top glass (heat helps a lot to do this)

- use "uhu endfest 300" for the bonding wires to protect

- use some leather rods, meguiars plastx and ethanol (to thin down the plastix) to remove the microlenses and the cfa (takes 30 minutes for rough pollish)

- q-tip, plastx and ethanol for fine polish the hole sensor

- ar-coated glass from edmund for top cover

- ar coated glass with heating wire instead of the shutter cleaning piezo and low pass filter

Here some pictures (sorry for the bad "screenshots"):

Picture of a streched flat before i fine polish the sensor extensively:

Here after 10 minutes fine polish, both picture are streched to max in fitswork:

Heres the first test, 5 x 600 seconds with 12nm h-alpha filter (without cooling):

So after this successfull test i start to build the active cooling with a high quality 2 stage peltier from quick-cool. these peltiers are much more efficient than the cheaper chinese ones. many parts are made out of carbon fiber. there is also an arduino controller for the little display i added inside the flash-head. here´s a picture of the nearly finished camera:

and here the display in detail, it shows the sensor temperature, the surrounding temperature, air pressure and the current through the peltier. i get a delta of nearly 30°celsius:

D=Digital

a= astronomy

c= cooled

m= mono-debayered:

markus

August 12, 2014

Hi,

i read the hole thread before i started to debayer a sensor from my 40d. i bough one for a few buck to start with it. i also wan to share my experience with you:

first i removed the front glas, i heat it up with a heatgun and a small extension to 60°celsius. then i lift up the glas with a scalpel starting at the Corner:

then a start to scratch of the lenses and the Matrix with a wooden tool:

finished removing the Matrix:

to protect the bonding wires with epoxy i used the 2 component uhu endfest . i take a small drop and let it fallen down to the pit. it is not perfect, but the protection is superb:

starting to pollish the ar coating away:

and here a streched flat without a lens and some paper in front of:

and now the Tools i used for it:

meguiars PlastiX for polish:

http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product/4596

a pice of Wood grindet to a sharp top from a cleaning rod like this:

http://www.leder-lauber.de/index.php?id=1

a dremel felt tip, but i polished without the dremel only by Hand!!!:

http://www.hornbach.de/data/shop/D04/001/780/493/579/55/DV_220x214_7947100_01_4c_DE_20131204174638.jpg

markus

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conehead

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Debayering a DSLR's Bayer matrix.

Debayering a DSLR's Bayer matrix.

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