iamjulian

Thank you.

Hello. I have checked in the software, the user guide, and the Google but cannot find whether the 'time' (or UTC time) you can include in the image file name is the start or end time of the image. I assume it is the start time, but it could be either I suppose. Haven't got the camera attached to test else I would. Many thanks if anyone knows.

Thank you very much. That sounds really helpful and I will definitely give that a try because siril does look good.

I found another bit of software called fitswork which convert to monochrome luminance, then saves as FITS. Saving one image into a separate file for each channel seemed overkill for my needs but I can see how it would be useful.

Hello, wonder if anyone can point me in the opposite direction to most people. Just to be awkward, I would like to take a RGB image in Siril, and convert it to grey/mono so that I can save it as a FITS without it being a 3 dimensional FITS (ie RGB). Everything I can find online shows the opposite - converting to RGB.

Thank you!

Thank you, that makes sense. I'll risk it 🙂

Trying to download ASTAP from sourceforge. Says 4,522 downloads this week, but my PC is blocking the download 'astap_setup.exe ... Could harm your device'. Any ideas why I get the message? I'm assuming it is actually fine but is it wise to ignore the warning?

Sorry, this has probably been asked many times but cannot find anything specific in search.  My power cable runs from the external garage wall to the obsy.  Two gang sockets go inside a dry box then power out of there to the mount and computer.  

My extension cable died. I have another on a reel, but it won't fit inside the dry box. Will it work inside one of these big plastic storage boxes? The dry box is IP55 but everything is taken down and packed away indoors at the end of the night, so only(!) concerns are dew/frost.

I have RCD protection but don't want to mess about with mains power. What do you think, can I get away with a big plastic box, or do I need to buy another cable with sockets that I can fit inside the dry box?

Excellent. Some smart ideas there, thank you. 

I just know the neighbours are going to look out tomorrow and see me in a neoprene wetsuit, spraying the inside of my weird little roofless shed with mint water.

My observatory keeps everything dry, but it breathes through various gaps. Probable futile but in an effort to keep the spider population below six figures, has anyone experience with filling the air gap around the pier with expanding foam? Or will this defeat the object and transfer vibrations?  Opinions and advice very welcome, thank you.

Thanks everyone, all sounds reassuring, especially the heat they produce protecting them a bit from dew, makes sense. The computer will only stay out while in use. Computer, cameras and cables all get packed away indoors at the end of the session. The observatory is wind and rain proof, but not insulated. Or spider proof.  Thanks for the eBay links. 

I run an extension lead to the observatory then power the laptop from that. I'm guessing these mini PCs have something exactly like a laptop transformer brick for their power.

I am looking for some advice please.

I have an observatory in the garden.  With the mount (HEQ5) connected to an old Vista laptop.  It still works, but the screen is getting temperamental when it gets cold. Bit like me!

My setup is a Canon 550d and a small QHYCCD hooked up to the finder scope.  I am running PHD2 for guiding, then APT and Cartes du Ciel.

I am thinking about changing to a mini PC that I can then wifi to from the house.  Given that the laptop probably has 2GB RAM and runs everything without a hitch, I shouldn't need anything expensive - is my thinking!?  Is there anything to look out for?  I have my power sockets and transformers in a sealed dry box, but the laptop just sits in the open.  Do these mini PCs cope well with frost and dew?  A couple of usb ports will be enough but anything else I need to consider?

Thank you.

Looks great! We should call them Todmorden Piers. That's where I got the idea from too. They don't look much in photos but really solid.

Just the other day I discovered the seagull finder plus a 32mm plug from wicks solution.

Cannot believe I spent the last six months kneeling or sitting on the freeing cold floor, straining my neck.

Almost looking forward to polar aligning this autumn.

Thanks for posting the photos Carbon. I got the calculator out last year and made up a set of eight strips on an A4 sheet, which I then had laminated. Double sided sticky tape only lasted about a day and then they were all hanging off. I like the electric tape idea, I also like the white pen directly onto the base edge idea, and cutting a window in the top board would work too. Decisions decisions.

Just echoing the advice above. I wouldn't be able to lift anything above the 300 which is on the limit for me. And I can just about get it through my slightly narrower than average door frames.

Thanks for the excellent nosepiece Wayne!

Arrived yesterday, lovely bit of craftsmanship.

Thanks all. Tried again last night. A moon filter (the only filter I have at the moment) didn't work, but at 125x the image was much sharper, and only slightly smaller (or so it seemed). Cannot see any banding yet, but it is a beautiful planet. Cannot wait for the rings to open up a bit more.

Thanks for the telescope simulator link - as in thanks for making me want a 16" scope with a 5mm Televue Nagler

Thanks everyone. I won't go for more magnification then. I shall play about with various magnifications in the 150x - 250x range.

Hubblebubble, sorry yes, forgot to mention the 2x barlow.

Hello

I first saw Saturn through a university telescope years ago, but hadn't seen it again until last night. I was viewing through a Sky Watcher 150P and a 6mm wide angle EP which gave a 250x magnification. It was tricky to get the focus right, but it was close enough to get a nice view of the ringed one.

I only had about five minutes viewing time so I didn't get to play with different magnifications, but my initial thought was, I should buy something to give me even more magnification. I know pushing magnification isn't always the way to go, but do you think it will be worth getting closer or even beyond the scope's theoretical maximum of 300x? Will I benefit? On nights of good seeing of course.

Have any of you had good views of Saturn at more than 250x magnification? All advice much appreciated.

Ian, thank you so much for posting that. That has taught me a thing or two! I was asked the other night why the side of the eye is more sensitive to light. My answer was, "because it is". Now I'll be able to give a slightly more scientific reason

I am still at the 'about to buy a scope' stage so this was a fantastic read. Many thanks Warthog.