Cuffbertt

Hi all

I'm looking to get a guide scope and camera to use with my set up (currently a 100-400mm telephoto lens, mirrorless APS-C camera and Skyguider Pro mount). I like the look of the 32mm William Optics guide scope, and the ZWO ASI120MM Mini or ZWO ASI120MM-S are frequrently recomended as decent guide cameras, but I want to check compatibility first.

I use a MacBook as well as a windows laptop so I'd like a camera that works with both ideally. In ZWO's ASI120 manual it states that the USB 2 versions of their cameras (ie the 120MM Mini) doesn't play well with OSX so I should get one with USB 3 (ie the 120MM-S). However, I've read that the 120MM-S may not be compatible with the WO guide scopes but I don't understand why... I don't want to buy the 32mm WO guide scope and AS120MM-S camera only to find that I can't mount the camera close enough to focus etc.

I've done a fair bit of searching on the subject but I think the WO 32mm guide scope is quite new so I've not had a lot of luck!

Is there any reason that this would be a bad set up?

This is my progress so far. They're not incredible I know, but each time I take a photo that slightly better than the last one it's such a great feeling of achievement!

My first Andromeda photo. Fuji X-T2 with 100-400mm lens. 100 x 0.5 second subs taken at 400mm, ISO 1600, f/5.6.

This was the image that I used a regular tripod for, hence the short subs. I used SiriL for Mac and it was difficult to use!

The next was taken after buying the Skyguider. 31 x 60 second subs, at ISO 1600, 400mm and f/5.6 again. Using the skyguider made a HUGE difference. I also took some dark and bias frames this time. After digging out an old laptop I managed to get Deep Sky Stacker working on it, but it's a slow process. As a side note, Mac users don't really have many options for stacking software!

This was my latest attempt. I parked up in a gravel car park in a nearby county park, which is pretty dark for somewhere that's only 15 mins from home. I tried to up the exposure time to 120 seconds and although there are definite star trails at 100%, it's not toooo bad. I think it's slightly out of focus going my the stars, so that's something to practice. This was 30 x 120 second subs, ISO 1600, 400mm, f/5.6. Stacked in DSS and processing pushed a bit futher in PS. This time I added flats along with darks and bias frames.

Well, time flies doesn't it. It's been almost eight years since I made my original post asking for advice. In that time I've replaced my crashed car, changed jobs twice, bought a house, got engaged, and witnessed what seems like the beginning of the end of the world.

But, still no telescope!

I found myself geting curious about AP a few times over the years, but each time I start getting interested again life jumped in the way and it all got forgotten. I've spent the last few weeks learning all I can, and I think I've finally figured out what I'd like to do. It seems like the best option for me is to use a small refractor and go-to equitorial mount. I'm a bit older now so my budget has increased, and I'd like to end up with a 70-80mm apochromatic refractor with an HEQ5 mount. Unfortunately I work as a design engineer in the aerospace industry so I've no idea what the next 6-12 months have in store, so I'll probably invest in the equipment bit by bit rather than all at once. Because the HEQ5 is a bit spendy and pretty much impossible to get at the moment, I've tested the water by buying an iOptron Skyguider pro. I've also retired my ancient and battered Canon 5DII and replaced it with a Fuji X-T2 and 100-400mm lens.

So far I've only taken photos of M31, but it's been awesome and I've learned a lot. I started taking 100 x 0.5 second subs untracked with a regular tripod (the same tripod I was using when I posted back in 2012!) and stacking them to make a muddy looking photo with a faint smudge in it. After getting the Skyguider I was able to take much longer subs; 60 seconds seems to be the sweet spot, I've tried 120 seconds and I feel like it's pushing it a bit far.

Anyways, I just wanted to post an update to my original post. I am back and will resume asking lots of basic questions!

Cheers for the advice everyone, I appreciate it! My copy of Making Every Photon Count arrived in the post yesterday and I started reading it for about an hour when I wasn't busy. Holy moly it's like a bible for everyone in my position! I can't believe how good it is, it starts right at the basics and has already answered pretty much every question I had when I joined this forum! I will definitely recommend it to anyone else that's in my position lol.

Not sure I'll be getting a scope for a while now though... Last night on the way home from my girlfriend's house I somehow managed to put my car backwards through a hedge, so my Christmas funds may be going towards the insurance excess for that boo!

Cheers for the help guys

At this point it comes down to money, how much are you prepared to pay? Consider future-proofing and what you might want in the future. A good mount bought now is something you won't have to worry about later, whether you decide to go for something big or something small, it's worth spending that little bit extra to get the good version.

Thanks for the information Jonathan! I don't really think I can stretch my budget much unless I want to walk the 15 mile round trip to work each day lol

I'm thinking I have X different options at the moment:

• 150P with EQ5 or CG-4. Use this without motors for a while and then buy a Dec motor for it
  
• Skyliner 200P Dob. Forget about AP for a while and enjoy viewing the stars, or use a webcam for planetary imaging
  
• Rob a bank and then buy an EQ5 with Synscan haha
  

Although I have just noticed on the FLO clearance section that theres a Celestron Omni XLT 150 that comes with a CG-4 mount and is now only £330

Yesterday when I got home I purchased a copy of Making Every Photon Count, I’ll be sure to read it thoroughly! Mum’s starting to get a bit angry with me now as I haven’t chosen anything yet- “Christmas is only two weeks away Carl!”, uh oh!

FLO have a Skywatcher EQ5 PRO Synscan on offer for £515.00 Yes, just above your budget but would cope with an 80mm Apo refractor and your camera with ease. I know it's GOTO, but it will help you get round the skies and with DSO's, many are really faint and really difficult to find without a lot of experience.

Gordon,

Thank you for your reply, I always thought that the scope and mount were equally important, but now I know that for AP the mount is significantly more important! It’s kind of weird actually, when I bought my tripod for landscape photography I picked a Giottos carbon fibre one that was lightweight but sturdy, so now it seems odd trying to train myself that a big heavy metal tripod is what I need :L

What exactly does Synscan do? I know a GOTO will point to the object you want using a computerized motor system, is Synscan/Syntrek the just a branded name for doing this? Also, is it possible to buy a mount such as an EQ5 and then add this feature later, or is that not possible?

I’m not sure that a GOTO is really what I’d like, it seems a little bit like cheating when you’re just starting out, surely part of the fun is in learning your way around the sky finding the objects? Although I assume that using a GOTO would totally remove the need to use a motor to track, so maybe that’s another reason to go for one

Thanks again for the reply, I’m now learning that there are many different ways to start out, each with their own advantages and disadvantages, which need to be weighed up carefully!

I'm not saying that the CG-4 Omni mount is the best for photography, but it is a step up from the EQ3-2 (they are virtually identical to look at, both are equatorial mounts, but the CG-4 comes with substantially thicker tripod legs which will help to reduce vibration caused by touching the scope, and also from breezes). Each step up the mount weight category increases the price, and it doesn't look like you want to spend £850 on an NEQ6 straight away (which is probably the top end of the standard reasonably-priced EQ mounts, after that it goes into silly money for huge contraptions). For your budget, I think the CG-4 should be a good intro for you to visual and photography, and if you do upgrade to an EQ5 or whatever later, the CG-4 would still make a good grab and go or travel mount.

So at the moment I’m thinking that a 150P with a CG-4 or maybe an EQ5 is a good option, which will let me enjoy viewing and learning before I purchase a motor system and start AP in a few months. What’s the difference between a CG-4 and a CG-4 Omni? I can’t seem to find this out anywhere but I’m sure I’ll feel like a fool when someone points out something obvious

Reading forum advice is like trying to read theoretical physics sometimes for me, I don't have a clue what they're on about until I actually get my hands on the mount / scope and try it for myself.

I know exactly what you mean, I thought the same thing when you said about a CG-4 mount. I guess thats another brand of equatorial mount?

I can find the 150P (or 150PL...?) tube for about £190, the CG-4 mount for £220 and the motor drive for £90, totalling £500 like you said , although I may leave the motor for a month or so to keep within my budget and so that I appreciate it more when I get it , do I then have to buy the rings and dovetail to put the tube on the mount, or is that supplied?

Thank you for the help, I'm slowly beginning to understand it!

So if I’ve understood correctly, I need to decide if I want to shoot the moon and planets or deep space objects, as this decides what sort of equipment I need to invest in? I.e. a Dob with a webcam for planets, but an motorized equatorially mounted refractor/reflector with a DSLR for long exposure DSO’s?

Looks like I have some thinking to do… haha

Thank you all very much for your help

Hi and welcome. Great name I have the same.

First of all you dont need an EQ mount to track, however, if you try to take long exposure photos without an EQ mount (or a wedge) you will get field rotation, ie the image will rotate and get blurry.

Also, a reflector isnt always the best choice, some people will tell you a refractor is the way to go for beginner AP, however it usually comes with a lesser focal length and is somewhat less suited to planetary work.

1) I can only speak from experience. I bought a NEQ-6 and scope separately. Worked fine for me

2) Telescopes usually come with rings and a dovetail bar. Consult your retailer for specifics.

3) Yes, you need to have a motorized EQ mount. Otherwise youre limited to really bright objects that require short exposure and even take a movie with a webcame and stack.(moon, Jupiter).

4) Piggybacking is a good option if you want to take pictures with your regular lens. It depends on what you want to do.

5) The camera wont be as much of an issue as the weight of the telescope. Aslong as you check what the mount is rated for, and try to stay well below that for better chance of getting a nice picture And you need to balance the the scope ofcourse.

My question for you is what do you intend to do? Are you serious about DSO photography or do you want moon/planets? If you invest in a smaller rig now do moon/planets, will it be come obsolete later? Is DSO's were you will end up? In that case you need the best possible mount you can afford. You can work with a motorized EQ 3-2 but be aware that you might someday want to start loading heavier scopes. I'd suggest nothing less than the EQ-5 (better yet the EQ-6) Unfortunately DSO photography is very expensive unless you constantly want to struggle uphill to get good results. The good news is that if you get the unmotorized 200p/ EQ-5 kit, you can add motors later. So if budget is an issue, see if you can invest in stuff that wont get obsolete quickly.

Like rowan said, you could just wait with the EQ mount and get a 200p dob, and start out with that. There are a ton of options open to you if you dont intend to do long exposure photography. However, getting the EQ-5 opens up the possibility of upgrading the mount.

Finally, and I cannot stress this enough: If youre serious about DSO photography, get Steves book "Making Every Photon Count". It's a complete walkthrough to DSO AP. And also, see if you can meet up with some fellow astronomers in your local Society. That way you could get first hand advice and even have a look at the equipment.

I think that DSO images are what I’d like to get eventually, but I would assume that they’re significantly harder to capture than planets, so that’s why I figured the moon and planets would be better places to start! I tried taking shots of star trails a few weeks ago but as there was patchy cloud overhead I wasn’t having any luck, then I tried (with a little bit of success) to get a close up of the moon, which I think was the point where I decided I wanted to take it more seriously.

Thanks for the book recommendation also, I will find a copy now

welcome to sgl i have a little good news and bad news. I'll give you the bad news first ( I always have more fun that way ) Your camera is not going to be very good for planetary photography. Prime focus is ok for the moon and long exposure deep space photography but for planets you are better off stacking video images.

Now the good news because you don't need a super mount and camera for planetary imaging you can get a fairly good visual scope and just put a cheap webcam on. So get yourself a 200p dob http://www.firstligh...-dobsonian.html and a chep webcam and you are good to go the money saved can go towards your next astro mount when you can use your dslr to better effect

So I guess that photographing planets and DSO’s are two totally different games that need very different set ups? Is there a reason why webcams are better for the moon and planets and DSLR’s are better for deep space shots? I’m struggling to understand what the difference between the two is at the moment; is it just that deep space stuff is much much darker and requires a series of long exposures, for which a DSLR is better? Sorry for the daft question...

Evening all,

First of all hello my name’s Carl and I’m from the wonderful county of Somerset. I am after some advice, another “what telescope should I get” question that I bet you all love

Basically I have been into photography for about 6 years and have had quite a lot of success at it. I have always been fascinated by astronomy although I literally have no knowledge on the subject (I can find the North Star using the Plough, but that’s it!). For Christmas my mum is going to give me a little money and I’d like to put it towards investing in my very own telescope I think my overall budget is only a measly £400, which I know is not enough to buy a great set up; I’m just looking for somewhere to start!

I’ve been reading for hours online over the last few days trying to find information on what to get. From what I’ve learned so far, the mount is much more important than the scope when it comes to AP. It also seems that the equipment that you need to get depends entirely on what you want to do, so I thought I better decide on what I want to achieve first! I want to learn as much as I can about astronomy but my aim is to get photo’s of planets and the moon to begin with, and then galaxies and other fancy things when my skills and knowledge (and budget ) have improved.

I understand that I am not going to be knocking out Hubble style shots, and to be honest it’s this learning curve that attracts me, the idea of getting a fuzzy photo that looks a little bit like a planet which gives me something to learn about and improve on makes me quite excited

From what I’ve discovered so far, I know I need an Equatorial mount in order to track objects. I have also read that a reflector is the best choice. I have looked at a few options so far, and am thinking that one of these two are good choices:

Skywatcher Explorer 150PL EQ3-2

Skywatcher Explorer 200P EQ5

Can anyone shed any light on which of these two would be best to begin with?

I have a couple of questions that I have so far been unable to find the answers to; if you could help me out I would be very grateful!

1. Would it be better to buy a scope and mount separately, i.e an EQ5 mount with the 150PL? Would this increase stability as it would be a smaller scope with a sturdier mount?
   
2. How are the telescopes held on the mounts? Do you have to buy separate rings to suit the size of the tube?
   
3. How do you use an equatorial mount to track the stars whilst taking a photo? Is the only option to use a motor to adjust the declination knob? (that’s the right knob, yeah?? Lol)
   
4. Is piggybacking a good option to start with? Am I right in assuming that I can mount my DSLR (Canon EOS 5DmkII with a Sigma 120-300 with 2x teleconverter) to the telescope and then take photos with that, whilst using the EQ mount and the telescope to correctly track the object manually?
   
5. I currently use a Canon EOS 5DmkII, which is quite weighty. Is there going to be any issues using the prime focus method on a telescope with the weight of the camera on the EQ3-2 mount of EQ5 mount?
   

Anyways, sorry for rambling on and asking so many questions! Thank you all for reading, your help is appreciated!

Cheers,

Carl