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ManInTheMoon

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Posts posted by ManInTheMoon

  1. I just checked it in the day time, I see very little CA on it, same for my Giant Binos (25x100), a lot of people cried about bad CA, I have yet to see it bad, sure if I really look I can see some CA but it is not I believe as bad as people say, sure probably against a scope costing 3x the price lol but for what it is, I don't think the CA is that bad really, I think it is managable.

  2. I think I remember reading that there is software that can help reduce the effects of CA from images. Not sure if they were referring to photo shop or a specific program written for imagers using achromatics but it may pay to ask in the imaging or beginners section.

    Photoshop can do it, it has specific CA filters in its raw editor. I think digiKam is planning to have it but it always opens up my CR2 canon raw files PINK lol, a big in their graphics library I think. Lightroom probably can but its too expensive. I try to use open source or free programs where I can. I imagine it is best using post editing CA for imaging rather than filters and stick to filters only for visual?

  3. I enjoy using my EVO120 and despite it only being only 4.75" and an achromatic it dose offer some good views of a fair few night sky objects. Out of all my scopes this is by far the best on double stars and gives good contrast on the moon. Planets have been a let down to be honest due to the CA. For the same reason I doubt it would be the greatest instrument for imaging as I suspect a DSLR is only going to emphasize these imperfections.

    Yeah I understand the limitations then again I am also taking into consideration the price lol. I don't mind imperfections in it even imaging, I just like to take pictures of things I havn't taken before. Once i get a larger aperture SCT reflector later, I will most likely use this scope for solar white light, it should get decent images of the sun I hope :)

  4. Where abouts are you?

    If you're in the UK then 54* puts you around where I live.

    In time get a Dielectric diagonal, transmits around 95% of light entering the scope. Go for 3 eye pieces, low, medium and high magnifications. a 2x barlow will, in effect, give you another 3 eye pieces.

    1.25 or 2" ? The diagional takes both, I understand the 2" gives a wider FOV and brighter images right and 1.25 is more for magnification? Would a powermate be better investment than a barlow?

  5. Is your scope gonna be the ED version (3xthe price) or the achromatic version?

    I have the celestron version of the evostar 120 (not ED). I dont do photography so i cant comment on that except that if you get the cheaper, achromatic scope like mine you will get colour fringing on the moon and planets (like a purple haze around the object). I dont think many people do astrophotography with achromatic refractors scopes.

    I can just about get 250x magnification (absoulte maximum!) for use with the moon and planets using a 5mm EP. Jupiter looks about the size of a 5p piece held at arms length in my eyepiece at the moment, the other planets are smaller but definitley not pinheads!

    w

    I have the achromat, the ED was out of my price range atm. I was going to add a Baader fringe killer or that other filter on the scope to reduce the CA on the moon.

  6. With a Skywatcher Evostar 120 refractor... What realistically would I be able to visually observe and image on a DSLR (Canon 1100D)? Zero light polution, approximately at Latitude: 54:20:41.99495 ( give or take a few ). What planets would I get a good size on? Any nebulas or galaxies? And why can I not get carrage returns in my posts? lol

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