labtech1122

Ah of course, sorry. 

It's a skywatcher 72ed with asi183mc pro, asiair plus, zwo EAF on an Eqm35-pro (I do have an heq5 pro but I tend to use that for my celestron sct. Also in bortle 4-5 depending if I travel a few miles up the road, usually St home thats a bortle 5

Hi, I'm just wondering if anyone can give some advice.

I have purchase this fikter over a month ago and it's been cloud since I've finally got an opportunity to test it tomorrow but I needed a bit of advice with the exposure times. How much would you increase the exposure time by compared to uv/ir cut filter?

Thanks for your help

George 

I did notice with a preview shot there are some halos around the stars (which I am under the impression is normal) the only explanation I can think of is when the stars are in perfect focus the halo is throwing off the auto focus software?!? 

Hi, I've had this weird thing happen to my auto focus runs this evening. When it runs it goes through the curve then starts going back up again as if it knew the correct focus then goes down again. So odd. I tried restarting asiair, resetting the focus tube position, checked all imaging train and everything looks OK. It's like on the point of actual focus it thinks the stars are bigger.

The only thing I have changed since it worked OK last time was I swapped a CLS filter for a antlia quadband filter (the antlia is the filter fitted in the images)

Hi, I have been having alot of issues with connecting my celestron focus motor. 

I downloaded cpwi and its connects ok and calibrates, when I try and connect to it through NINA it won't work at all. I have a skywatcher heq5 mount so I'm connecting the focus motor directly to the computer. The ascom diagnosis says its unable to open port 5 (the motor port) but I'm able to connect to it via cpwi. If I choose cpwi in NINA as the focus motor location it isn't able to open it or find the drivers.

If anyone has a celestron focus motor and a SW mount please help me with as much detail as possible 

Thanks 

George 

It doesn't seem to be in the single exposures.

Or so little its not registering 

Hi, please help. I had this last night too, for some reason I seem to have some red spikes on my histogram and can't work out what it is. Any idea?

It seems to be getting worse as the stacking commences

On 16/09/2023 at 18:13, alacant said:

Siril makes it easy.

Pre process each exposure set, copy (or use the conversion tab) the pp files to a new working folder.

Register

Stack

That's it.

Cheers and HTH.

 

Also, how do you register 2 sequences together?

On 16/09/2023 at 18:13, alacant said:

Siril makes it easy.

Pre process each exposure set, copy (or use the conversion tab) the pp files to a new working folder.

Register

Stack

That's it.

Cheers and HTH.

 

Oh ok, ill give this a go. So do I do the normal steps with calibrations on the lights for each set then register the calibrated lights all together?

On 16/09/2023 at 09:41, 900SL said:

To do multiple exposure stacking in Siril, you need to write a script.

 

There's an excellent Siril tutorial series online by Rich of Deep Space Astro. Well worth running through

 

 

I've seen this before, love his videos, he's taught me everything I know about siril haha. I've been using sirilic but there isn't a section for separate darks

HI, this is my first proper galaxy shot I took using my skywatcher 72ed and an asi183mc pro. I can't remember how many subs but was 120s and about 3 hours I think 

OK great, I'll give it a go on pixinsight, I started using siril because pixinsight can be a bit intense on the mind sometimes haha. I used to use DSS 2 years ago when I started but could never get it to work correctly but back then I was using a Canon on a very long focal length scope so now with the asi183mc pro and a 72ed I'm sure it will be easier

Hi, I've got some data of a target I did with differnt exposures and wondered the logistics of stacking them together.

I know you can stack them and what to use but I've always wondered about your dark frames, how do you stack the differnt exposures but keep the darks with their matching lights so you don't calibrate say a 180s dark with a 300s light (as an example of course)

1 hour ago, ollypenrice said:

It's not clear what we are looking at, here.

The green-magenta top image is the subtraction map for background extraction?

What we need to see are the original image screen stretched, the background extraction map and the image screen stretched after the map has been subtracted. JPEGs will do fine for a first look.

Olly

Hi sorry, the green/pink image at the top is a flat frame and the second is the background extraction from a stacked image. When I'm back at my pc I'll get some more images

Hi, 

I've just run a background extraction in graxpert. (Image if flat and back ground extracted included) the final stacked image I've got some bluring in the area where it is black on the extracted background.

(Pleaseexcuse the crappie photo of the extraction it was an image of my monitor haha)

Do you think this is a sign of tilt or where have I gone wrong? I did all jew calibration frames and get the same every time. All the stars look round in all corners and edges but the extraction looks odd and the starless image has bluring on the edge

The canera i have is an asi183mc pro.

Cropping the images does bother me at all, I want to try it without the reducer so I can get a smaller field of view so giving it a crop after will aid in my framing. I want to get some shots of m81 and m82 but currently don't have my 6"sct set up. I can swap everything over but just wondered if I needed to.

Hi, I have a 72ed with a .8x focal reducer, I was going to give it a try without the focal reducer to see what kind of field of view I'll get but has anyone done this and what sort of image would you get. I know there will be no flattening or correction but was curious how bad the image would actually be

Hi, does anyone know if I can get the funstar for the 6" sct. I've seen on Google it says the 5,6 and 8 but when I go on each website no one seems to have it for the 6" 

OK thanks for your replies,my Internet was OK the couple of times I tried it so maybe simbad was down? I will try again tomorrow 

Hi, I've been trying to do photometric colour calibration in siril on a couple of images I got the other night.

When I go into photometric colour calibration and search for the NGC object it doesn't come up with anything. Siril says if you have the meta data in the image then you don't need to search however I have tried to search, tried using the meta and also tried I putting the RA and DEC or coordinates can't remember what it calls them. Even after trying this it still doesn't find where it is, it says to manually select over 6 stars, I only know how to select stars using PSF so I select them and try again and it says it can't find it. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks for your help

Ah ok, thank you very much I was just concerned because someone said you can use your guide scope as a finder because the FOV is wider than the imaging but that clearly isn't the case

Hi, I was just curious at the field of view of my guide scope and when putting the numbers in I realised the FOV is smaller than my imaging scope. Is this a problem? Should the FOV be the same or maybe bigger than the imaging scope

Hi, I've got a celestron nexstar 6slt with a 0.63x reducer.

I am currently using a canon 650d on it and am getting some good results, I've recently bought a 72ed with a zwo asi183mc attached to it and like the images you get from it so I've been having a look at what canera would suit my 6slt.

What I would like to know is what cameras a suited to long focal lengths like 1000mm while keeping the pixel ratio in the sweet spot? I've been having a play around on the astro tools website and it seems I need to go for something with big pixel size but I would also like good quality images. Am I better staying with a canon like a 6d or is there a cooled dedicated camera that would suit a long focal length? I can spend 1k on a camera but will struggle to spend more than that.

Thanks for your help

6 minutes ago, Elp said:

Thinking about it, I don't think a mod will help with galaxies (or very little at least), as a first stage mod removes the IR filter making the sensor exposed to more IR wavelength light like the ha spectrum, a galaxy is broadband colour so doing a mod I think will make little difference other than maybe picking up a bit more of the red ha regions. For an emission nebula, that's different. A full mod also removes the UV filter but that isn't really useful for AP.

OK thanks for the reply, I knew there wouldn't be any real bonuses to galaxy imaging but what I am worried about is negative effects it will have. Would modding it negatively impact galaxy shooting do you think?

Hi all, I'm thinking about getting my canon 650d modded.

I really like nebula photos and love what the mod does to the images, I'm planning of getting a full frame 6d soon but what I wonder is if I should get mine modded after galaxy season? I want to mod it but if I get it done now will i then have to miss out on the galaxy shots.

In a nut shell my question is can you take decent galaxy photos with a modded canon?

Thanks for your help in advance guys.

Any advice is welcome