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ATIK 16HR PROBLEMS :(


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Hi all just bought an atik 16hr off the forum and have some strange artifacts that look like dead pixels...well that's all I think they can be.

Below are a couple of test shot's of 8 minute single subs and another that is a test stack of 45mins the plame test is Ha and the bubble is just luminance with a Baader UHCS filter.

Is this normal or is the ccd ...kaput?

Wierd that a majority of the offending pixels have vanished on the stack.

I am getting usb errors in windows 7 but can't find any updated drivers on the ATIK website????

Anyway if some one could give me an idea to what is happening that would be great.

If they are dead pixels that means the ccd would need changing I take it?

Thanks

Matt.

First pick Bubble single frame,

Second bubble stack,

Third Alnitak and part of the flame (most noticable artifacts)

Hot or dead?

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post-17960-133877515206_thumb.jpg

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Hi Matt. In my opinion your CCD is fine and your images look great. There are a few specs of dust probably on the ccd and the filters. These can be cleaned with a lens pen (Misc’ - Celestron Lens Pen).

These dust donuts are made worse during stacking but the process should, and usually does, remove most hot or cold pixels because they "stick out" statistically like a sore thumb.

Mark

EDIT: As Nadeem said flats can reduce the dust donuts. Make sure your filters and CCD are clean first. Here's a thread that I found useful about flats:http://stargazerslounge.com/imaging-discussion/123395-confusion-about-flats.html

Edited by mark7331
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Cheers feellas but it's not the dust doughnuts I'm concerned with it's the small white specs? Is this dust also? It cant be dirt on the filter becasue I was using a different filter for the bubble that I was for the flame. They all seem a pixel in width etc so I'm thinking dead or hot...hot I can live with but dead no..there's to many of them.

I have zoomed in on the piccy to show you what I mean.

post-17960-13387751522_thumb.jpg

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I have a few on my art285 as well, similar to you. They disappear when stacked as there are normally slight differences between subs, positional differences, so when combined, depending on method used, they can be processed out.

Not sure if they are hot or dead...but i know you can map dead pixels in say maxim and then get it to automatically process them out.

Its a reason why sometime its nice to have little shifts in position between subs so that these types of errors cause less problems.

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As far as i am concerned i manage to live with these hot or dead pixels and it hasnt caused too many problems.

Hopefully someone can say which type they are and the best method for processing.

I would not think its as drastic as a ccd change but you need to take them into account when processing.

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A couple of mine do show a trail in colour.

I keep meaning to check if its the same pixels each time as then producing a map of bad pixels would enable them to be removed.

I had the same feeling you did when i first niticed mine.

Hopefully someone else has a bit more knowledge than me and can add some info.

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Dont worry Matt, that's perfectly normal....in fact, you probably have fewer dead pixels than me!

Darks will get rid of any that are consistent on the chip, and any others will be removed in stacking if you use an outlier rejection stacking algorithm....Median, sigma or sd mask will do it.

The reason you've lost most of them in the stacking process was probably becuause you're using that type of algortithm, and there will have most likely been a bit of movement between your subs, meaning that the hot pixels weren't in the same place on every sub and were therefore rejected.

Incidentally, hot pixels are white, dead pixels are black.

No idea regarding the win 7 issues though, sorry.

Cheers

Rob

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For something of that price, i'd be really cheesed off I had hot pixels or dead one's.

To get a grade 1 CCD with no dead or hot pixels you need to pay several thousands. However, most so called 'hot' pixels are actually thermal noise/cosmic ray hits.

The 285 chip in the Atik is very noise free. My 8300 chipped SXVF H18 has a lot more than that.

It's why you use darks.....they get rid of all of that rubbish.

There is nothing wrong with your camera Matt.

Edited by RobH
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Phew cheers Rob! The noise for 8 min subs is excellent. The last picture being a single sub!! I was more than chuffed with the camera...just need a focal reducer now :) Antares do a nice cheap one! Then there's the usb filter wheel...ooo and I need a low profile focuser as I can't use the wheel with the one I've got then I'll need a bigger scope...then I'll need a bigger mount...and then....and then.....on and on.....:D

Thanks again all for your replies!

Clear skies to ya all!

Matt.

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...you will get sucked in quickly to all those upgrades!

If you have the money, when you get the filter wheel see if you can afford some decent filters. The baader lrgb ones are around 180 but block out the sodium transmition line of street lights and are parfocal so no focusing between filter changes.

I have just ordered some so am now only missing the bigger mount thats on your list!

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  • 7 months later...

Hi,

I have just purchased an Atik 16HRC but I am missing the cd-rom, do any of you have a copy you could post or email please?

I think all of the software is on the Atik site but they have taken down the drivers, firmware and manuals.

Thanks

Robin

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Hi Matt,

You are a true gent, thanks for sending me the the manual. *I have managed to install it on to an XP PC but seem to be having problems getting it to go on my WIN7 Laptop, but I will look around the boards to see if this is possible, unless anyone here knows?

Regards

Robin

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Hi,

I found how to install the drivers on the Atik site, it was hidden under USB1 for Windows 7 64 bit, but it's the same procedure for all versions of Win 7 and Atik cameras.

Now it's relatively clear overhead, I can see a first try coming up later.

Thanks

Robin

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Hi,

It's completely clouded over here (Northumberland) so I had a go with an 80mm refractor at the TV mast about 5 miles away. Verdict, this is going to be very good.

The DSOs will have to wait for another night for me to get the 10" out.

Regards

Robin

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