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Why is my EQ6 blinking?


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OK, this is really frustrating; I'm all set up, looking into possibly the last clear night I'm going to get for a while, and something has fouled up.

I have my laptop plugged into my (N)EQ6 mount, and the LED is blinking. The mount won't slew. But if I unplug the laptop from the mount, it behaves perfectly normally.

Absolutely nothing has changed. Both mount and telescope are running off the same mains socket, both via the same 2-gang extension lead I've used since I started. I'm using the same RS232 wire, and adapter USB wire. Both axes of the mount are locked down.

I would be very grateful if somebody - anybody - could suggest anything that might be causing this. It's so disheartening when this sort of nonsense happens (by nonsense I mean things not working that have worked previously, with no hint of a problem).

Thanks everyone.

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There seems to have been quite a few posts about EQ6 and power problems, and I'm wondering if SkyWatcher realise there's a problem because when I got my EQ6 earlier this year it came with a self adhesive cable clip.

There was no explicit documentation that I could find as to what to do with this clip but I've used it in conjunction with that graphite screening block thing to provide a 'buffer' for the power connector that prevents it from turning or flexing when the mount is slewed (see pic below).

So far it's worked okay, but then again it's early days yet.

post-17860-133877491853_thumb.jpg

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My experience of the flashing LED was due to the power lead being incapable of supplying sufficient current (2A I think). Do you ever get a grinding/buzzing sound from the gears or find the mount resets itself when you do a large slew? If so, I would recommend replacing the power cable with the Astronomiser Skywatcher cable.

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Thanks guys. A wiggle was all that was required. r3i, I found that clip in a pile of bits on my desk when I was tidying this week, but I couldn't remember for the life of me what it was for. Based on today's experience, I need to try and remember where I put it...

I can't find my rechargeable AAA batteries either (I need them for my Nikon MC-36 cable release). Come to think of it, I can't find...anything. This is definitely a good example of why people should never tidy!

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The power socket is a weak point on the EQ6. I had to get Andy to replace my original one with another scavanged off a board kindly donated by a SGL member who had upgraded his EQ6. The contacts are the centre pin and the metal plate at the top of the socket so you can improve the fit adding tape to the bottom of the plug head.

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There was no explicit documentation that I could find as to what to do with this clip but I've used it in conjunction with that graphite screening block thing to provide a 'buffer' for the power connector that prevents it from turning or flexing when the mount is slewed (see pic below).

[ATTACH]44327[/ATTACH]

Apologies for going slightly off topic, but what is that conical bit attached to the power cable? You called it a "graphite screening block", what purpose does it serve? I have no idea:icon_scratch:

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Mine blinks now and again and I'm running it from a 12v supply, the supply is good and the lead is good, as with all things blinky a little wiggle and its sorted.

Thanks for the pic R3i, that looks like it would do the job nicely of keeping it supported, never thought for a moment of using that there.

I had a SupaTrak mount for a little while that had a similar connection but it could be screwed in place, now that was solid and will be something I will be adding to my NEQ6 when I get a chance.

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Apologies for going slightly off topic, but what is that conical bit attached to the power cable? You called it a "graphite screening block", what purpose does it serve? I have no idea:icon_scratch:

Hi Uplooker - sorry I used completely the wrong terminology, I should've said Ferrite not Graphite. It's used to suppress radio frequency and electromagnetic interference. For a detailed explanation have a look here: HowStuffWorks "What are the bumps at the end of computer cables?"

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  • 11 months later...

Just been out for my first proper session with my brand new NEQ6 Pro SynTrek from FLO, I'm pretty sure the power light was steady on to begin with, as the night progressed it went to slow flashing and then to fast flashing, I couldn't find anything about this feature in the manual so assumed it was trying to tell me that the power was getting low (from my 12v Maplins powertank); can't say that I noticed any difference in the sound of the motors or gears during this time. I did have two dew heaters running all through the session (which lasted approximately two hours with everything switched on).

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Hi!

I have the NEQ6 Pro SynScan mount from FLO.

The power indicator is described in the SynScan instruction manual.

The power indicator will flash when the power is low. Continue to use the battery at this point may damage the battery. The power indicator will flash rapidly when the power is extremely low. Continue to use the same battery may damage the SynScan system.

I now use a homemade 12v/30Ah powertank and after setting up the telescope I always switch the dewheaters on immediately. This will start to drain the battery with 2A, one more hour the telescope is coooled and ready to use and I can observe a few hours before the power indicator start to flash. As long as it flashes slowly it is no problem to continue as I see it.

Gunnar

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you. I think my Maplins power tank has had it, I tried charging it using a car battery charger and after a few minutes it was reading full (charger was buzzing like crazy, meter was at zero). I tried it on my 8SE Goto mount and it was OK for a while but then started to go a bit slower, and then slower... it still worked when I finished for the night but it was obvious that the power was not there. The LED power meter on the Maplins power tank did not light up at all, and after I switched the unit off it would not switch back on again, not even to power the built-in LED torch.

I may have to bite the bullet and buy the SkyWatcher power tank, that at least should be properly tested and rated for use with the NEQ6 mount.

I strongly suspect that the Maplins power tank was just a bit too cheaply made, the battery cells probably lacking the quality required for regular high-power use.

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IMHO....

Dump the powerpacks and go for a proper 20Ah gel cell battery and good electronic charger... you'll get better performance and save money in the long run.

Just my 0.02 euro

Is there a website that describes the gel cell battery and a suitable charger? I wouldn't know where to start with that kind of technology.

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About batteries...

If a lead-acid battery falls below 10.5 volts it will never recover. In fact, in order to "survive" and be healthy it should never be below 11.8 volts. There are batteries with slightly better figures, most notably AGM batteries, but the fact remains: a battery that has been below 10.5 is totally wasted.

So, running an NEQ6, as I do, you have to take care that you have enough oompf in your batteries. I use four 7 AH 12V gel cells and it takes me through almost two nights before the NEQ6 stars blinking. I run the following off it in a sealed plastic (Pelican style) case:

1 NEQ6

1 Canon EOS 1000D running off a reducer at 9V

1 4-port USB HUB running off a reducer 5V

1 Meade DSI II for guiding

Building your own "Power Tank" is a very good idea. You will have total control of all parameters and you will have something that you actually know the limitations of. Another good point is insulation. I have to use it at down to -30°C, so the whole situation is helped a lot by having a well insulated case!

Here is a table of state of charge from measured voltage. It is an approximation and a substitute for the real method, which is to measure the specific gravity of the electrolyte:

batteri.png

A very important point to note is that if you buy a lead-acid battery, you have to bring you DVM to the store and measure each battery. Anything below 12.4V on the shelf is a lemon and will never perform!

Here is my case:

case2.jpg

A close-up showing the connectors currently in use:

- 3 USB

- One DB9 for the mount (the EQMOD adapter is in the case)

- One standard power for the Canon camera (9V)

- One special power for charger

- One special power for the mount

- One USB on short wire to be connected to the computer via 10m extension

Case1.jpg

And finally, the somewhat messy interior. It was a test and it turned out so functional that I never got around to cleaning everything up :) The purple thing is a level converter for EQMOD and it is attached to a USB-to-Serial. The metal box on the right houses a couple of standard voltage regulators (78M05 and 78M09) for the hub and the Canon. I feed the Canon 9V into a non-original battery that I opened and soldered a couple of cables into in parallel with the battery cells. At 9V it always kept at around 80% charge and serves as emergency buffer should the cable fall out.

Case3.jpg

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I have a bunch of Lithium cells on the way in. They have excellent cold performance and can be battered and abused in a completely different manner. Also, the power-to-weight-ratio is higher. I will report when I get them.

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Jonathan,

It's not scary :)

There are no metal parts that can move once the lid is on, and it is always on. It pushes in the batteries with the rubber foam at a fairly high pressure. The case has served me well for several months.

As for competence; if you know what plus and minus is, you're allright! Or, as they say, "Black is ground and plus is minus"...

/p

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You touch on a good point!

I don't know why some of the bigger astro suppliers haven't seen the opportunity to provide a "no frills" 20Ah gel cell battery, c/w cigar socket and a suitable charger as a "mini-pack"

It would certainly outlast, and probably out sell those tacky powerpacks!

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Merlin, I share your puzzlement.

In simple terms, the Jump Start and Power Tank units are generally sold with jump starter auto type batteries. Despite the fancy writing on the outer case that may imply astro use is fine and dandy, the battery inside is intended for a large surge of current demand to start a motor, then immediate recharge. Without being too awfully technical, the changes that go on in the chemistry that makes the electricity causes the discharged solution to damage the plates. Not good for extended, low current draw use since this causes the plates to sulfate and even break down.

That's why, in our astronomy uses of low current/long duration, a battery intended for such use is more appropriate, such as a golf cart or wheel chair or marine use battery. Sometimes called Mobility batteries, these are designed with thicher plates for the deep discharge/deep cycle long use we need.

A deep cycle type battery is part 1 of our need. Power tanks/jump starters are great for emergency starts of motors, but they don't want to be drawn below about fifty percent capacity, and want to be recharged immediately upon use, for long health. The part 2 of our need is recharging our supply. The power tanks tend to come with a low rate "wall wart" charger without a sensor to stop charging when the battery is ready. It can easily damage the battery with overcharging. And since they charge at such a slow rate, we can forget they are pumping away. So, a decent multi-state charger is in order along with the deep discharge power source. The higher quality devices of this type (Battery Defender is one popular version here in the US, Soneil is the Canadian equivalent and actually makes the Battery Defender) will sense the type of battery, and charge in a way that cycles through higher current flow and lower maintenance currrent. This can actually recover some damaged batteries and prevent sulfation.

So, for long and happy powered astronomy equipment, a good combination is a deep discharge battery of high enough capacity to not tease one with drawing it down too low (50 percent of rated capacity is the usual rule of thumb when to stop and recharge), and a good charger for maximizing the life.

I have used just about every one of the Jump Start and Power Tank options out there, and even killed a few through ignorance and learning the hard way. Because I do a lot of GOTO slews, and even satellite tracking, with my Orion Atlas mount, and have a laptop to worry about as well, I am now using a Werker WKA12-33C 12 Volt 35Ah mobility battery similar to this:

WKA12-33C - Battery

along with the Battery Defender:

Battery Defender 12 Volt 3 Amp Battery Charger: BatteryMart.com

Please note that the name Battery Defender is a "house" proprietary name by Battery Mart for the international Soneil 1206 multistate charger, suitable for gel, sealed, AGM, and lead-acid batteries

http://soneil.com/Completesets/SPEC1206S.022701.pdf

My total cost was less than $100 US, and now I have no problems with the high use of the mount running down the battery after a few hours, and the recharging is efficient and has been maintaining the battery health.

I finished the setup with this box, that I just dropped the Werker into and connected two clamps to the battery. There is a cigarette sockette on the side of the box, and a positive and negative connection set for charging the battery or tapping off other power uses, and a power tester to show the charge state.

http://www.nextag.com/Moeller-Marine-Products-Moeller-579392884/prices-html

For a total of about US$110 I have a 35 Ah power supply and charger that work well together and are intended for how they are used; slower discharge for a longer time.

I hope this helps. I killed two 17-18 Ah supplies in 18 months by being less than wise. This setup has been great so far.

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