Jump to content

SkySurveyBanner.jpg.21855908fce40597655603b6c9af720d.jpg

Embarrassing Jupiters webcam clinic

Space Cowboy

Recommended Posts

Viv

Viv

Posted
Posted

oh so pleased this thread is still going.............

I know some bits of my kit are a challenge to start with. But other than the 2 bands, I can't seem to pull any detail out.

Using an SPC900, Explorer 130 PDS, EQ3-2 mount (no motors).

Sharpcap settings :

[Philips SPC 900NC PC Camera]
Frame Divisor=1
Resolution=640x480
Frame Rate (fps)=10.00
Colour Space / Compression=YUY2
Exposure=-9
Brightness=127
Contrast=43
Saturation=25
Gamma=1
ColorEnable=255
BacklightCompensation=0
Gain=32

So gaining focus is interesting (to say the least) & it's still not right. Using the slo-mo cables, to put Jupiter on screen & trying to keep her there for a couple of a couple of mins of AVI.  Here is last nights attempt...................

IMG-02.jpg
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • Replies 630
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Viv

Viv

Posted
Posted

Russe - oh thank you, that would be great, hope there could be data in there I just don't know how to pull out.  Would you drop me your email address ?

It seemed very stable last night, she wasn't bouncing around (other than when I was trying to focus or using the slo-mo..........

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Kirscovitch

Kirscovitch

Posted
Posted

I have an Orion Starshoot 5MP. Software that came with it is EZPlanCap. I managed to get this image the other night with my Nexstar 130SLT. Best 25 frames stacked through Registax6. I've already deleted the avi off of the flashdrive so I'm not too sure of what settings I used. I know resolution was 640x480 binned. I also know that focus was not the best, but cold temps had the focuser almost locked up and every time I tried to dial it in the scope shook so bad. I spent almost 20 minutes getting it to where it was for this image. I was also using a 2x barlow.

jup125144.jpg

What resolution should I be using? By the sounds of it from earlier posts in this thread that 640x480 is right but which one? There is a 640x480 and then 640x480bin. Also where about should I set the exposure, gain, gamma, contrast? I know that every time out will be different but what would be a good starting point or guideline? What about white balance and RGB settings? Thanks in advance! Hope I'm not too confusing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Russe

Russe

Posted
Posted

The above mentioned settings are a pretty good guide:

Frame Divisor=1

Resolution=640x480

Frame Rate (fps)=10.00

Colour Space / Compression=YUY2

Exposure=-9

Brightness=127

Contrast=43

Saturation=25

Gamma=1

ColorEnable=255

BacklightCompensation=0

Gain=32

Link to comment
Share on other sites
JamesF

JamesF

Posted
Posted

The Barlow quality will have a significant impact as well. I've tried 2 years ago with a cheap Celestron Barlow and was never able to focus until I bought a better one.

Very true.  The Revelation 2.5x barlow is very good for the price (less than £40 I think).

James

Link to comment
Share on other sites
JamesF

JamesF

Posted
Posted

What's the difference between 640x480 and 640x480 binned? Also for exposure, I can set it for minutes, seconds and ms. 

Binning combines the signal from multiple pixels into one.  For the purposes of planetary imaging I don't think you'd want to do that.

James

Link to comment
Share on other sites
JamesF

JamesF

Posted
Posted

What resolution should I be using? By the sounds of it from earlier posts in this thread that 640x480 is right but which one? There is a 640x480 and then 640x480bin. Also where about should I set the exposure, gain, gamma, contrast? I know that every time out will be different but what would be a good starting point or guideline? What about white balance and RGB settings? Thanks in advance! Hope I'm not too confusing.

Initially at least I'd probably leave most of the controls at their default values and set the gain to about 50%.  If the capture program has a histogram display enable that and then change the exposure time to get a histogram that comes 60% to 70% of the way across.  Or you can set the exposure time to get a frame rate of, say, 30fps and change the gain to get the histogram in the right place.  I'm afraid I'm not familiar with either the camera or the capture software, so those are just "best guesses" for a starting point.  You may find they need to be changed quite a bit.

There's no reason you couldn't practice some of this during daylight if you were able to.  The settings won't be the same as for planetary imaging, but it will at least get you used to the controls of the software.

James

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Kirscovitch

Kirscovitch

Posted
Posted

Binning combines the signal from multiple pixels into one.  For the purposes of planetary imaging I don't think you'd want to do that.

James

Makes sense. But confused as that's what the manual suggests for planetary imaging lol.

Also I just opened the software and there is a slider bar for "target"? What does that mean?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
JamesF

JamesF

Posted
Posted

Makes sense. But confused as that's what the manual suggests for planetary imaging lol.

Also I just opened the software and there is a slider bar for "target"? What does that mean?

If the manual suggests it for planetary imaging then perhaps it is the right thing to do.  I've never really been able to get my head around how binning really made sense for planetary imaging, but presumably the manufacturers know what they're doing.

I've no idea what the "target" slider is for I'm afraid.

James

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Kirscovitch

Kirscovitch

Posted
Posted

Bah! I've been looking for the manual and of course I can't find it when I need it!!

From what I remember it suggested the 640x480 bin as though it did reduce the resolution a bit, it enabled the fps to be increased up to a possible 50fps.

But suggested above, I want about 10fps so why in the heck would they suggest 50? 

Grrrrrrr.... Every time I think I get something figured out, I read and have been told numerous things that tell me I'm wrong. Or at least 2nd guess myself. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
JamesF

JamesF

Posted
Posted

In general the faster the frame rate the better as each individual frame will be less affected by the seeing.

However, faster frame rates mean lower exposure times which in turn may require greater gain levels which introduces more noise that you don't want.  So it's a bit of a balancing act.

James

Link to comment
Share on other sites
JamesF

JamesF

Posted
Posted

You could certainly add a 2x or 2.5x barlow.  I'd set the exposure time to maximum, set the frame rate to 10fps and then adjust the gain to get the histogram about 70% of the way across.  Leave brightness etc. where they are and make sure they're not on auto.

James

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.