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Imaging with Nikon (in July)


Shibby

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So far it's been quite a struggle to get into the world of imaging, in part due to the Nikon D70 camera, although I am very grateful for it (on loan from a friend). One of the problems is the bulb setting; it can only be trigged using the IR remote, timing manually. So I've ordered one of these: DSUSB-IR1 to try to make life easier. (Should work with DSLRShutter).

However, the camera also applies a median filter to any image taken over a certain shutter speed. The only way I know of around this is to enable in-camera dark frame subtraction then turn the camera off while it's taking the second frame. If I did this, it would essentially negate the advantage of the cable I've just ordered. So I guess my question is, how important is it to prevent the median filter? Am I losing all the faint stars etc? I don't suppose there's a way to bypass in an automated way? ;)

My other question: what would be a good imaging target on a short July night, assuming I'm limited to around 90s subs and the camera is unmodded?

Cheers!

Lewis

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Hi Lewis

I bought a 5000D (Nikon DSLR with swivelling view screen) and a chinese long exposure controller off ebay that plugs into the side USB port in Manual bulb mode. That works very nicely and should also work for all the other Nikons too. The remote unit you have I believe attaches to the hot shoe ?

I also turned off all the post processing options I could find (ISO NR etc) and enabled the shutter delay. I can't evidence for a median filter in the subsequent shots. Historically the mode 2.5 method of turning the camera off during the noise subtraction was the only way of precenting the filtering, nowadays I'm not so sure and seeing that reviews agreed was one reason I went for the D5000 over Canon.

Finally, have you tried Maxim or Nikons capture pro tool for remote control operation, including long exposures. My experience of MAxim at version 5.09 is that it is missing a type0003.mdl file. Capture pro can't handle exposures over 30 secs but will download new images when available.

Hope this helps

Mike

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hey,

I currently use the D70 for imaging at the moment, I actually have it on loan from a friend as well but I am currently saving up for a canon 1000D.

Yea I found the Nikon a real pain in the *** at first and I have been unable to find any control software that will work with it (I have not tried any of the paying ones yet, going to wait until I get the canon)

I got a cheap wireless remote and a stop watch for it and currently the only way I know off the get rid of the median filter is to switch off the camera after you take your exposure.

Some links for the D70

Nikon D70 - astronomy imaging

Nikon D70 Versus Canon 10D

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Hi Lewis

I bought a 5000D (Nikon DSLR with swivelling view screen) and a chinese long exposure controller off ebay that plugs into the side USB port in Manual bulb mode.

I think these cameras work slightly differently. There is no wired shutter release for the D70, only when connected to a computer. I've tried Camera Control Pro but as soon as you select bulb mode, it switches to manual control.

The USB cable I've ordered actually has an IR LED on the end, that is then used to trigger the shutter as the wireless remote does.

I got a cheap wireless remote and a stop watch for it and currently the only way I know off the get rid of the median filter is to switch off the camera after you take your exposure.

Yeah that's what I currently do; find it a pain! Do you bother switching off the camera every sub and bypassing the median filtering? I've seen that first article you posted before and the differences are pretty significant according to it! I might have to do a few of my own tests, however...

filtered.jpg

notfiltered.jpg

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Yeah that's what I currently do; find it a pain! Do you bother switching off the camera every sub and bypassing the median filtering? I've seen that first article you posted before and the differences are pretty significant according to it! I might have to do a few of my own tests, however...

I accidently done a test, I use a bahtinov for focus and the first time I tried it, without switching off the camera I just got some fuzz really and switching off the camera improved the result a lot. So I switch it off for all exposures including dark frames.

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I suppose at least this cable will give me consistent shutter times and I wont have to time each one, even if I have to turn the camera off every time it closes...

Need some sort of timed circuit to disconnect the battery!

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I suppose it must also be said that we're talking of, not yestarday's technology in the D70, but more like, the day before yesterday !

I have a D70. I gave up worrying about it years ago. It takes pictures. I'm satisfied. I no longer do " Mode 3 ". I said on another thread that once you've flattened the image, got rid of grads, done a few fiddles and run a noise reduction routine, the finished article on the computer screen looks fine.

If I wanted a new DSLR for imaging I would go for the 550D. I'm not bothering and going straight to a cooled camera ( something like an 8300 based chip )

Nikon make cameras for photographers not Astro photographers. Their routines are judged by many to be better then the Canons. That is their aim.

If some one asked me if it was a good idea to buy a secondhand D70 I'd say no. If you already have one or are given one then enjoy it.

Here is a 50mm shot of Orion whilst quite low in the sky. One or two stars are visible! I quite like it and an expert could do much better with it.

Dave.

Jpeg seems to be worse with it than the star eater. Tiff is much better.

post-13139-133877460824_thumb.jpg

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Do you mean - Home

Where did you find that!? I've spent months googling for ways around my problems, now you show me this just after I order an inferior solution!? ;)

Ah well, if it's too late to cancel the order, I will just have to overlook the median filtering and possibly do it manually on occasion.

If I wanted a new DSLR for imaging I would go for the 550D. I'm not bothering and going straight to a cooled camera ( something like an 8300 based chip )

That's a really nice shot of Orion there. Yeah, the camera is actually on loan from a friend. If I do buy my own, I'd consider a pre-modified Canon like the ones available here: DSLR Astro Mod ~ Order Now!

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Fortunately, the order hadn't been processed so the helpful chaps at shoestring astronomy have refunded me and the Intervalometer is now on the way ;) Thanks Dave, I should be all sorted to carry on with the Nikon now!

3ggman, you might want to consider getting one too? Note they also provide constant power to the camera (AC adapter alone costs more than this!)

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Hi Lewis,

Good news. Does this latest AM3 still use 12v ?

Also, have you a further link / email for buying just in case some one else fancies one ?

A word of caution for any one with a more modern Nikon camera is that the last I heard they would not work if your battery had a third terminal. This is a battery read device to inform the camera of battery charge. The AM3 device can't power up.

Peter,

The D70 is very easy to mod. The problem comes finding a new CCD slip. They are a different thickness to the Canon. Is this what you meant ?

Dave

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Indeed...

Sold my soul now though... getting deeper and deeper into Canon kit for astro an IR photography ... With Canon it just works doesnt need you to buy other software or hardware to run the cameras... better battery life lower infact non existent ampglow... The D200 was horrendous...

Still use Nikon for Everything else...

Peter...

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Also, have you a further link / email for buying just in case some one else fancies one ?

A word of caution for any one with a more modern Nikon camera is that the last I heard they would not work if your battery had a third terminal. This is a battery read device to inform the camera of battery charge. The AM3 device can't power up.

Nope, I just emailed the address(es) on the Contact Us page.

Yeah, this won't work with a 3 terminal camera, but here's a quote from the Project List page:

Also in the works is the AM3 version for cameras that use the newer 3 terminal batteries. I’m a little behind on this one since it is a bit difficult to decipher the signal from this new terminal.
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  • 2 weeks later...

FYI of anyone reading, I've been warned that the automated mode 3 might not work properly on the D70, as it draws more current than (tried-and-tested with) the D50. The shutter control should still work.

I'll give an update once I've received it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all,

I today received and tested my AM3 Intervalometer... It works perfectly!!

I can now configure the D70 to automatically take any number of subs, performing its functions of open/close the shutter, drop power to dump the file to card during NR, power back up, repeat. (15s between subs). Also, it's nice that it provides power so there's no need to keep charging batteries or buy the £80 power adapter!

It's a great device, from a chap name Javier and cost me $108 including shipping (around £68). Anyone using a D50/70/80 etc for astoimaging - get one!

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Hi Lewis,

Glad to hear it arrived. I can stop sweating now.

Does the unit also just provide power to the camera without the voltage drop if required ? If so, time lapse could be performed easily. The D70 battery is dire.

Re the 3 contact batteries. I know he says one is in the pipeline but I've heard it's a non starter as yet.

Dave.

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Dave,

No I don't *think* you can disable the voltage drop function. I've thought about this and you could take time lapse but only at 15s intervals, if you take the camera out of bulb mode and set sub time to 15s, it would take 2 subs, power down for 15 sec, then take another 2...

Edit: OR, of course, set it to: interval - 15s and throw away every other image.

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  • 3 months later...

Hello Everyone, i now this thread is very old, but i just got here by accident and was very sorprised that someone is taking about my AM3 from AstroIntervalometers. Just to let you guys now, i'm around, if anyone has any questions about it.

My page www.astrointervalometers.com doesn't look very well, i need to update it, but i can be reached at jvillarrealn@hotmail.com.

Shibby, im so glad that you AM3 worked nicely for you.

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