Jump to content

stargazine_ep34_banner.thumb.jpg.28dd32d9305c7de9b6591e6bf6600b27.jpg

Recommended Posts

Hi I have just started imaging the horse head and wanted to know if anyone could point out any improvements that could be made?

Equinox 80

canon 350d

Iso 1600 subs

28x120 secs stacked with DSS

Guided using PHD

jpg.gif

post-14596-133877417394_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking pretty good Dean. Did you take any dark frames as this would help reduce the noise. If you did and this image is calibrated then I would just keep adding data to reduce the noise. It may have been better to use ISO800 although this would mean yet more subs needed.

Regards

Kevin

Edited by BeyondVision
Link to post
Share on other sites

You have done very well with this combination but as Kevin says, noise is the enemy here. I would also recommend a lower ISO setting and darks. Although this will mean more subs to capture the deep detail, the overall image will be smother and more noise free as a result. Keep going, this is an excellent start!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Keep ading the data and it wills trat to smooth out nicely...

Good darks are pretty much essential for the earlier canon DSLR's especially if the temp changes by more tha a degree or two over the course of the session it also takes a while for the ampglow to stabilise...

you also want to watch the interval you leave between lights I have basically stopped using y modded 350D as compared to the 1000D its noise performance is very poor and too much valuable time is wasted leaving gaps between subs and taking darks...

It's now just used for IR photography... or may coem out to play if it drops to around -10C again...

When I was using it I used to shoot ISO 800 normally 300s subs with 150s between them I would start early as it would take 5 or 6 cycles before ampglow stabilised I would take a few darks when ever the temp had fallen by a couple of degrees...

Whan processin gin DSS you needed to group the lights around the best fit darks for them to be of much use..

Alternatively frame to avoid the botrtom right corner - the worst part and/or use selective color processing to remove any remaining mess...

1000D can shoot ludicrously long lights for a DSLR without even a hint of ampglow and I only leave 30s between frames to make sure the camera has plenty of time to download the image to the PC...

Billy...

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.