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Canon 1000D on SW127MAK - Not Reaching Focus


johankj
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I have only briefly attempted this.

I attached my Canon 1000D DSLR onto my SW 127 Mak with a T-Ring adapter straight onto the visual back, so it's slick to the back of the scope.

I turned and turned the focus knob, and eventually reaching an image that could only be a turn or two away from reaching focus, before it stopped.

What can I do to make my setup reach focus? I have something like this (tele-extender I think its commonly called), and using it without an EP inside the barrel.

Another problem is that the focus nearly reached focus (!) in the complete opposite side of where my EPs normally reach focus. This could be a problem when I finally get the focus problem sorted.

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which end-of-travel do you hit? near the tube or far from it?

I'm not sure. I guess that makes a difference :/

There is a small sign in just above the focus knob, like a volume sign, but I don't remember at which end...

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have the same problem with my SW 130P and a Nikon D70, using a T adapter with an eyepiece inside. Moving the focuser all the way in (towards the tube) almost gets the image in focus but not quite. I think the barrel of the T adapter is too long, sounds like we might both have the same issue? :rolleyes:

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Johann, I'm not sure you'll be able to do this, but can you take a picture of your scope with the camera attached ? I've had no problem at all with getting focus with my 450d on the back of my Skymax 102, in fact, for the moon etc, it's about middle of the focus range. I've even managed to focus it down to about 50 feet without adding any components. I've used it both with a T ring attached directly on the back of the scope, and using a T ring - 1.25" ep fitting.

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I must admit, I sometimes try to get a "feel" for these things, with the aid of a ruler or tape measure... The standard diagonal and eyepeice usually implies focus is (conveniently!) a FAIR way behind the OTA. Do take care not to scratch any optics during the process. :)

Since the MAK is based on the "T2" thread systems, there are usually sundry and various extensions you can buy... once you've a rough idea of the positioning. I ahev learned that (in my case at least) the mirror doesn't "fall off" at limits of transit! :rolleyes:

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  • 1 month later...

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