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Skywatcher Skyliner 250PX Black Diamond AUTO


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OK so Skywatcher doesn't actually make a solid tube Auto dob (at least not yet) but it is possible to come up with one. Just take a FlexTube Auto dob and a solid tube dob and swap the bases. The only change needed is to swap the tube mounting parts from the sides of the OTAs. The holes drilled in the tubes are identical so no mods needed, just a straight forward bolt on job.

Everyone in the UK was out of stock of the solid tube 250PX so I got one from a German dealer, and it turned out to be one of the new ones in the Black Diamond finish.

While I was at it I changed the focuser for a proper dual speed crayford and added a RA 8x50 finder and a laser finder and a mirror cooling fan. The carry handles on the tube came from WDS Ltd. The balance weights on the lower end of the tube are the Astro Engineering ones intended for their SCT balance system. The dual wheel locking castors make it easy to move arund.

Very pleased with the end result as I prefer the solid tube and it looks as if it came that way from Skywatcher. Now all I need is some decent observing conditions....................................

John

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I haven't had chance to check out the tracking properly yet, but in a short test it seems OK. Bring on the dark nights!

The solid tube OTA is actually about 2.5Kg lighter than the FlexTube so no problem there. The truss components weigh more than you would think. I have added some small counterbalance weights to the tube as I have added a heavier focuser and finderscope.

John

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  • 2 months later...

sorry to bump an old topic but how did you get a 250px black coloured dob? I thought they were all white, I can't find any pictures on websites that well the 250px as black version. think i'd prefer a black one to white tbh so would be interested to know where / how you got it.

edit: I re-read your second post and you said you got it from a german retailer and that this black version is a "newer" 250px? mind sharing their website link?

thanks

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Hi

The reason for buying from a German dealer was simply down to the fact that there were none of the 250PX solid tube dobs available in the UK at that time. Their website still shows the old photo of the white tube version. You could always check with them to confirm that they do have the black ones in stock. When I bought it the exchange rates were a bit more favourable.

Skywatcher Dobson telescope N 254/1200 Pyrex DOB

I would have though by now that UK dealers would have the black ones in stock, or perhaps they don't have any new photos to use. Have you tried asking Steve at FLO about it?

John

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Hi

The reason for buying from a German dealer was simply down to the fact that there were none of the 250PX solid tube dobs available in the UK at that time. Their website still shows the old photo of the white tube version. You could always check with them to confirm that they do have the black ones in stock. When I bought it the exchange rates were a bit more favourable.

Skywatcher Dobson telescope N 254/1200 Pyrex DOB

I would have though by now that UK dealers would have the black ones in stock, or perhaps they don't have any new photos to use. Have you tried asking Steve at FLO about it?

John

I made a ticket at FLO asking them about it already :D thanks

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Here in the UK the solid-tube Skywatcher Dobsonian telescopes are still white. It is inevitable that they will switch to the new Black Diamond livery but we are not sure when. I have a feeling though that when they do we will receive a run of enquiries asking for white tubes, white is the 'classic' colour for telescopes.

HTH

John, you must be the master of Dobsonian modification :D:)

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Does this telescope require batteries to operate or is it mains aswell? Steve

It's 12v so betteries (power tank etc.) or a mains adaptor are fine. The mount doesn't use much power to operate so batteries will last quite a while.

John

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I hadn't posted any photos of the dob with the SynScan hand controller fitted in this thread so here's a couple. I'm also using a GPS mouse with it, and the flat wire that connects the mouse to the HC is run inside the coiled cable that connects the HC to the mount. Helps to keep things a bit tidier.

The standard hand controller bracket for the tracking hand control paddle isn't wide enough for the SynScan HC. I used a SynScan bracket that was intended to fit onto a tripod leg and cut the bits that would clamp onto the leg off, drilled a couple of holes in the back of it and replaced the standard bracket.

John

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  • 2 weeks later...

No I haven't waterproofed the base. It's really only when the base with it's standard little feet is placed on wet grass that it can become a problem. The casters that I fitted hold the base far enough off the ground so that it shouldn't be a problem.

When moved manually the Auto is very stiff. You can't use the base manually for observing, it's really just so that you can move the scope manually (and quickly) to the approximate position that you want and then use the hand control.

John

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Cheers John that’s what I thought about moving the base, the hand control works really well and seems to hold the object in line OK. I have also put some taller feet on so it is well above the grass. I have also got my shroud this morning from FLO so I will install that tonight. The collimation was a bit out when I got the scope but a little fiddling around appears to have sorted things out. I did manage to get about 30 minutes of observing in the other night and the views were magnificent so I look forward to having a nice leisurely stroll the sky with it soon. Steve. PS John where did you get the wheels from on the base?

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The castors came from

http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/CDTWBHB75GRT_Twin_wheel_castor-1040-p-17217-e

I prefer the twin wheel type as they are more stable than the standard single wheel. Also by having twin wheels they are easier to roll about as there is only half the weight on each wheel.

You will need some 10mm bolts as well to attach them. There is enough space between the base and the groundboard to bolt on the castors without having to disassemble anything. Just unscrew the rubber feet and drill out the small holes to 10mm.

John

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