Zwo 178mm. Is it worth trying to cool it?

[Wonderweb]

Hi all. 

I have a zwo 178mm camera which I use as part of my travel rig and was wondering if it's worth trying to cool it., and if so, what parts or kit have people used to do it? 

Thanks 

Edited September 7 by Wonderweb

[Elp]

What's your environmental temperature like and how does the sensor image with regards to amp glow?

I've been using uncooled for years, don't cool them down though I know people have, either with custom made peltier coolers or mobile phone coolers, though too cold and I think you then get potential condensation issues. Cooled cameras have dessicant tablets within.

[Wonderweb]

20 minutes ago, Elp said:

What's your environmental temperature like and how does the sensor image with regards to amp glow?

I've been using uncooled for years, don't cool them down though I know people have, either with custom made peltier coolers or mobile phone coolers, though too cold and I think you then get potential condensation issues. Cooled cameras have dessicant tablets within.

Hi.

I get quite bad amp glow as the imaging session progresses. Is this due to the sensor temperature increasing and would cooling reduce amp glow? I have heard of people getting condensation issues so wouldn't want to push it too far. I was just wondering if a little but of cooling would be of any benefit. 

[Elp]

You'll definitely see a benefit of noise reduction but it depends on how much further it cools. I tried my 224mc, but because the sensor is a tiny 5 x 4 the amp glow swamps most of the sensor. With my 183 the sensor is significantly larger so I can use that perfectly fine without cooling. Depends how warm it is in your environment.

[tomato]

Cooling won’t eliminate the ampglow but a retro fitted Peltier cooler will keep the sensor temperature more stable and hence make calibration frames more effective.

Because the retro cooler is working on the camera body it can create lots of external condensation in humid conditions and some internal also. This is usually not a problem but if you orientate your scope near the vertical you can get droplets of water falling onto the sensor window which is a problem. The key is not to overcool, just aim for a stable temp. I run mine at 4 deg C set point which equates to around 7 dec C for the sensor temp, that’s enough.

I have some eBay reference codes for some of the items:

Fan: 296325908274

Peltier cooler:  163480708408

Edited September 8 by tomato
EBay references added

[tomato]

12v temp control module here is the eBay link

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284744769170?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338749386&toolid=20006&_ul=GB&customid=GB_12576_284744769170.151610817726~1870247360294-g_CjwKCAjwtqmwBhBVEiwAL-WAYbQi5Edp370j0exzpZd_njS6-yk69p8PSazjwnt8L1ZczYfS54XGXRoCq-cQAvD_BwE&gbraid=0AAAAADihhqVM--dRwstYoai-DpLYhje46

The assembly is mounted on a CF baseplate which is affixed to the body of the camera with thermally conducting cement. Note this does not come off easily and will probably invalidate any warranty you may have on the camera!

[Tomatobro]

The parts look like this. 

[Wonderweb]

54 minutes ago, Tomatobro said:

The parts look like this. 

Looks interesting. Where do you get the cf components from? 

[Elp]

A simpler solution is a Black Shark funcooler pro. It's on version 4 now. Someone on here uses one.

Edited September 8 by Elp

[Wonderweb]

On 08/09/2024 at 15:23, Elp said:

A simpler solution is a Black Shark funcooler pro. It's on version 4 now. Someone on here uses one.

They look really interesting.  They look like a disco though with all the lights on them. Can they be turned off? 

[Elp]

Not sure, maybe could remove or cover the LEDs by opening it up?

[Wonderweb]

Also, has anyone tried putting silica beads in the camera body to reduce the risk of condensation? It's non flammable and non conductive

[happy-kat]

I read the shark 4 in the app could turn LEDs off, that's good it that is there

[Wonderweb]

Just now, happy-kat said:

I read the shark 4 in the app could turn LEDs off, that's good it that is there

Thanks. I've been looking at YouTube video's of it and they only show the various light shows it can perform. No-one ever turns them off. 

I was thinking of trying on as you can regulare the temperature and if I put some dessicant beads in the camera body it will maybe help to stop condensation 

[Dark Raven]

There are smartphone coolers without led lights. I tested two and you can find details in the post below. 

TLDR: You can expect up to 10'C lower temp compared to ambient.

 

 

[tomato]

On a humid night if I run the cooler into single figures I get a lot of condensation around the camera, and it is the air in front of the sensor window that would need to be kept dry. Maybe you could drill and tap a hole in the side of one of the spacers in front of the camera and screw in a desiccant chamber, has anyone ever tried this?

[Wonderweb]

I have just cut open a packet of desiccant and stuck some of the beads to a piece of plastic with some industrial double-sided tape. They stuck solid to it, so I was thinking of trying this around the front of the camera, away from the sensor window, but in that vicinity.  This would be a pretty much sealed unit if I go camera, filter wheel,  spacers, then reducer, so I would imagine I wouldn't need too much desiccant to keep the air inside dry. 

[Wonderweb]

Update. I have not been able to turn off the lights on the funcooler and as far as I can tell from the app, I can't control the cooling temperature either, although it really does cool things down. Has anyone else had any experience with the funcooler 4 that can help out?  Thanks