Jump to content

SkySurveyBanner.jpg.21855908fce40597655603b6c9af720d.jpg

Meade LX200 12'


Recommended Posts

Hello my LX200 12” did have a weight. 
 

I de-forked and started the cleaning/lubing process.  With intent of trying it with my EQ6
Installed Peterson’s Focus kit

Removed the weight I believe it was 4-6 lbs. can’t remember. I believe my OTA weight was 38lbs once completed. 
 

It worked on the EQ 6 but it looked like a big camper on a half ton pickup  

It’s now on a Losmandy G11

E2A3AEFD-161B-42F9-9654-DCBA4AF9CAFF.jpeg

454426B9-253E-4177-BAB4-6B47EECD630D.jpeg

22B495F9-E8CE-4D0E-B639-1092BBA92C4F.jpeg

0408C209-1743-4240-9BAC-69EB8A3703AE.jpeg

692808A4-0302-4EC1-BEEE-053B0962E7C7.jpeg

3C1125D8-677A-487A-BBAB-D644796F3534.jpeg

03BE8212-8BB1-4919-8BAA-F62C0CD60766.jpeg

Edited by Spaceship
  • Like 2
  • Thanks 2
  • Confused 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Meade SCTs don't have a rear internal counterweight.

The 7" Maksutov does, as in Spaceship's images, maybe as suggested to allow the physically-long OTA to be mounted further  forward in the forks.

My SCT external balance system has to have its weight almost at the front of the OTA.

Michael

Edited by michael8554
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, michael8554 said:

Meade SCTs don't have a rear internal counterweight.

The 7" Maksutov does, as in Spaceship's images, maybe as suggested to allow the physically-long OTA to be mounted further  forward in the forks.

My SCT external balance system has to have its weight almost at the front of the OTA.

Michael

Well, apparently at least some do as seen in the post by @Spaceship above. I can see it in one of the pictures.

Edited by gorann
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 09/03/2023 at 22:44, Spaceship said:

Hello my LX200 12” did have a weight. 
 

I de-forked and started the cleaning/lubing process.  With intent of trying it with my EQ6
Installed Peterson’s Focus kit

Removed the weight I believe it was 4-6 lbs. can’t remember. I believe my OTA weight was 38lbs once completed. 
 

It worked on the EQ 6 but it looked like a big camper on a half ton pickup  

It’s now on a Losmandy G11

E2A3AEFD-161B-42F9-9654-DCBA4AF9CAFF.jpeg

454426B9-253E-4177-BAB4-6B47EECD630D.jpeg

22B495F9-E8CE-4D0E-B639-1092BBA92C4F.jpeg

0408C209-1743-4240-9BAC-69EB8A3703AE.jpeg

692808A4-0302-4EC1-BEEE-053B0962E7C7.jpeg

3C1125D8-677A-487A-BBAB-D644796F3534.jpeg

03BE8212-8BB1-4919-8BAA-F62C0CD60766.jpeg

Thanks for the post and photos!
I’ve just had my Meade 12” SCT (possibly an original LX200 OTA) serviced, cleaned and primary mirror/secondary recoated. My ‘first light’ opportunity was yesterday and I was reminded of how much ‘play’ there is with the focuser. The scope has travelled a bit since collecting it, so it needs collimating again which I didn’t do due to the limited ‘clear sky’ opportunity.

My question is whether the Peterson focuser upgrade is easy to do for a ‘non-diy’ type such as myself.

(To the OP: I’d add that the scope sits on a NE6R with 4 counterweights and seems to balance nicely. I’m a visual observer only btw)

2F5D14F9-5067-4AF3-BAF0-1E8ED6130756.jpeg

059892FF-453D-4909-B3D0-4B9A43846F29.jpeg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It was easy. You can do it!

If you look at my pictures you’ll see the back of the mirror has a stem that the focus knob attaches too. I cleaned and re-greased the mirror slide tube for ease of operation.  There’s a video put out by Meade mods that describes the process also. 
 

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, michael8554 said:

Meade SCTs don't have a rear internal counterweight.

The 7" Maksutov does, as in Spaceship's images, maybe as suggested to allow the physically-long OTA to be mounted further  forward in the forks.

My SCT external balance system has to have its weight almost at the front of the OTA.

Michael

My LX200 12” Classic did have the weight. You can see it in the back of the tube in my pictures then on my kitchen table. I flocked the tube and in that picture you can see the weight has been removed. 
 

I believe it’s the 7” and the 12”. Not sure about the others. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Spaceship said:

It was easy. You can do it!

If you look at my pictures you’ll see the back of the mirror has a stem that the focus knob attaches too. I cleaned and re-greased the mirror slide tube for ease of operation.  There’s a video put out by Meade mods that describes the process also. 
 

 

Thank you for the positive encouragement!

I have seen the Meade Mods video on YTube. 
On other forums showing a Starlight Microfocuser (SCT) being installed, things looked ‘fiddly’? 


Perhaps I’m making too much of what appears easy? 
Question: Is it straightforward to detach the end of the focuser, therefore ‘learning’ how to re-attach.
Is that the ‘stem’ you mention ( at about 5:25pm) on the attached copy photo? 

Apologies to any dyslexics, but I’m mechanically ‘similar’, so don’t want to end up bodging it!!

Thanks for any help! I

33594574-CDCE-445D-A189-822F13FD166F.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Elara said:

Thank you for the positive encouragement!

I have seen the Meade Mods video on YTube. 
On other forums showing a Starlight Microfocuser (SCT) being installed, things looked ‘fiddly’? 


Perhaps I’m making too much of what appears easy? 
Question: Is it straightforward to detach the end of the focuser, therefore ‘learning’ how to re-attach.
Is that the ‘stem’ you mention ( at about 5:25pm) on the attached copy photo? 

Apologies to any dyslexics, but I’m mechanically ‘similar’, so don’t want to end up bodging it!!

Thanks for any help! I

33594574-CDCE-445D-A189-822F13FD166F.jpeg

The primary mirror is held against a spring. You need to lock the mirror in place first. My 12” is the older Classic. I had mine apart when I installed the new focuser so it was very easy. You’ll need to create a mirror lock tool first. (See attached).   I also attached a Moonlight Crayford focuser to minimize the amount of mirror movement. Hope this helps.   Watch enough videos until your confidence is up. It’s pretty straight forward. 

221C6B23-42B6-495B-ABC1-8AD3D29E1698.jpeg

A4B60455-0CD1-44D0-B6F4-DA93B1FBB749.jpeg

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Spaceship said:

Yes that is the stem. the little threaded hole next to it is for the mirror lock (screw/bolt) that you’ll need to make or purchase. 

The primary mirror is held against a spring. It will spring forward in the tube if you don’t hold it in place when you release the original focuser.  
You need to lock the mirror in place first. My 12” is the older Classic. I had mine apart when I installed the new focuser so it was very easy. You’ll need to create a mirror lock tool first. (See attached).   I also attached a Moonlight Crayford focuser to minimize the amount of mirror movement. Hope this helps.   Watch enough videos until your confidence is up. It’s pretty straight forward. 

221C6B23-42B6-495B-ABC1-8AD3D29E1698.jpeg

A4B60455-0CD1-44D0-B6F4-DA93B1FBB749.jpeg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Again, many thanks!

I have the aftermarket mirror lock already installed, so just a case of tightening it up prior to installing the Peterson Engineering EZ Focus Upgrade, which I’ve ordered from the UK distributor, RVO. I’ve also ordered the Peterson Eyeopener III. I’ll let you know how I get on.

Having been ‘away’ from using my setup for several years owing to personal circumstances, I’ve decided to join a local Astronomical Society, so I’m sure I’ll get lots of assistance from them too.

Clear Skies!

Cheers!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Elara said:

Again, many thanks!

I have the aftermarket mirror lock already installed, so just a case of tightening it up prior to installing the Peterson Engineering EZ Focus Upgrade, which I’ve ordered from the UK distributor, RVO. I’ve also ordered the Peterson Eyeopener III. I’ll let you know how I get on.

Having been ‘away’ from using my setup for several years owing to personal circumstances, I’ve decided to join a local Astronomical Society, so I’m sure I’ll get lots of assistance from them too.

Clear Skies!

Cheers!

Excellent!!  Good job. Local help is always the best!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Wow, that's new, I am doing my homework before buying an 11-12" SCT and found several comments on cloudynights claiming the LX200 STOCK OTA-s have manufacturer installed mirror lock, the LX90's not. Hence I decided to forget the LX90's, but seems the stock LX200 doesn't have a mirror lock either?

On 12/03/2023 at 16:09, Spaceship said:

The primary mirror is held against a spring. You need to lock the mirror in place first. My 12” is the older Classic. I had mine apart when I installed the new focuser so it was very easy. You’ll need to create a mirror lock tool first. (See attached).   I also attached a Moonlight Crayford focuser to minimize the amount of mirror movement. Hope this helps.   Watch enough videos until your confidence is up. It’s pretty straight forward. 

221C6B23-42B6-495B-ABC1-8AD3D29E1698.jpeg

A4B60455-0CD1-44D0-B6F4-DA93B1FBB749.jpeg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I have seen many older Meade SCT's with counterweights fitted behind the primary mirror. I think it's due to them having to move the fulcrum further back to allow diagonals etc to have enough clearance of the fork mount when observing near or at the zenith.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The meade newtonians and their 7 inch mak-cassegrain certainly have large metal weights behind the their primary mirrors.

Often an early modification of such scopes is to remove the counterweight. I understand that it is thought that the weight slows down the cool down process by adding mass close to the primary mirror.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, John said:

The meade newtonians and their 7 inch mak-cassegrain certainly have large metal weights behind the their primary mirrors.

Often an early modification of such scopes is to remove the counterweight. I understand that it is thought that the weight slows down the cool down process by adding mass close to the primary mirror.

 

Having a heavy camera it would be a great idea to remove any weight from the primary side. Will have a look on my copy, being a wee bit scared to disassemble the entire OTA though 😀

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, GTom said:

Having a heavy camera it would be a great idea to remove any weight from the primary side. Will have a look on my copy, being a wee bit scared to disassemble the entire OTA though 😀

Having looked at a few pics of an LX200 12 being dismantled, I'm not sure that it has that weight behind the mirror. 

This SGL member has done quite a bit of work on an LX200 12 inch - there might be some useful information in here for you:

 

Edited by John
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.