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Realistic Expectations


John Wick

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I posses a Canon 6D, 135mm Samyang F2, Sky Watcher Star Adventurer, live in a bortle 3 rural area. Does anyone have any images or links to what I should be able to achieve given the equipment and location? Looking at imaging the various nebula and galaxies available in the autumn/winter seasons. 

Just want to set my expectations in order that I don't perhaps expect to much. 

Many thanks in advance. 

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Hi 

This was taken with a 6d and Samyang 135

It was taken using an Astrotrack at 2 min subs from a bottle 3-5 location 

The processing was done about 5 years ago and my processing has improved since then 

Cheers 

Bryan

D6266585-B878-4445-998C-247174458679.jpeg.e2fcacb859d09f3f367a443e96d93714.jpeg
 

I found a re processed version of the image above 

probably 3 years ago…

Same date, just handled differently! 
Nog saying it’s better, just different 😊

95D91855-0ADC-4C76-8BD9-F61FBFCFEA51.thumb.jpeg.7cb19a3a859ea22a7595bcef43b28483.jpeg

Edited by assouptro
Added image
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52 minutes ago, John Wick said:

I posses a Canon 6D, 135mm Samyang F2, Sky Watcher Star Adventurer, live in a bortle 3 rural area. Does anyone have any images or links to what I should be able to achieve given the equipment and location? Looking at imaging the various nebula and galaxies available in the autumn/winter seasons. 

Just want to set my expectations in order that I don't perhaps expect to much. 

Many thanks in advance. 

not sure if you missed this one, if so, go and check

astrobin also has quite a few pics

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I didn't get to use my Samyang much when I had it but got a couple of nice shots.

M45 was only 50 minutes of 60s subs I believe from a pretty bad light polluted bortle 6. Was taken on an iOptron star tracker mount.

583492970_M4550mins.thumb.jpg.cd555794bfe1978ca9b317fb9bd8f592.jpg

 

Heart and Soul, again from same location but on a bigger mount with guiding. Heres the difference between 2 or 3 hours worth of 5 minute subs and 5 hours worth. At a bortle 3 location, you should be able to get more detail and dark dusty stuff.

1450830391_HS135mm2.thumb.jpg.a21149dc35c7874afd1a515ae88008fa.jpg

 

723543316_NGC896135mm.thumb.jpg.8c69c2e20fe6a34b1fed94cf9c817a06.jpg

 

All taken with an Optolong L pro clip filter in my 6D, ISO1600.

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27 minutes ago, John Wick said:

Wow! I guess it's the processing that really makes or breaks the image to some extent. Normally I just work my way down through the sliders and see what I think looks good. 

yep, this lens is truly WOW!  :) bortle 3 location should give you very nice initial data to work on.
Sadly, I still have not found time to image in full extent with it :) as my skies are very bright...

As per processing, -  usually it is much more than just sliders... Noise reduction +  Sharpening balance + Colour/Contrast Balance is the main headache...

Ach... In this case the amount of stars...
Too large amount of stars can spoil the image also.

Edited by RolandKol
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On 21/10/2022 at 19:05, david_taurus83 said:

I didn't get to use my Samyang much when I had it but got a couple of nice shots.

M45 was only 50 minutes of 60s subs I believe from a pretty bad light polluted bortle 6. Was taken on an iOptron star tracker mount.

583492970_M4550mins.thumb.jpg.cd555794bfe1978ca9b317fb9bd8f592.jpg

 

Heart and Soul, again from same location but on a bigger mount with guiding. Heres the difference between 2 or 3 hours worth of 5 minute subs and 5 hours worth. At a bortle 3 location, you should be able to get more detail and dark dusty stuff.

1450830391_HS135mm2.thumb.jpg.a21149dc35c7874afd1a515ae88008fa.jpg

 

723543316_NGC896135mm.thumb.jpg.8c69c2e20fe6a34b1fed94cf9c817a06.jpg

 

All taken with an Optolong L pro clip filter in my 6D, ISO1600.

Appreciate your reply. Gives me something to aspire to. 

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On 21/10/2022 at 17:58, assouptro said:

Hi 

This was taken with a 6d and Samyang 135

It was taken using an Astrotrack at 2 min subs from a bottle 3-5 location 

The processing was done about 5 years ago and my processing has improved since then 

Cheers 

Bryan

D6266585-B878-4445-998C-247174458679.jpeg.e2fcacb859d09f3f367a443e96d93714.jpeg
 

I found a re processed version of the image above 

probably 3 years ago…

Same date, just handled differently! 
Nog saying it’s better, just different 😊

95D91855-0ADC-4C76-8BD9-F61FBFCFEA51.thumb.jpeg.7cb19a3a859ea22a7595bcef43b28483.jpeg

What targets and integration time are these? 

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1 hour ago, John Wick said:

What targets and integration time are these? 

Hi 

This is the Cygnus region, so dropping into the west this time of year, taken in September, I think the integration time was 2min but it was a long time ago so I will have to look back over a couple of laptops to find the original data to find out how many subs were stacked etc 

I’ll get back to you 

Cheers 

Bryan 

Edited by assouptro
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Small apertures produce large stellar images but using a star removal-replacement tool like StarXterminator can mitigate this very often.

The key thing with a camera lens is focus. Some kind of micro-focus device would pay dividends.

Olly

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11 hours ago, assouptro said:

Hi 

This is the Cygnus region, so dropping into the west this time of year, taken in September, I think the integration time was 2min but it was a long time ago so I will have to look back over a couple of laptops to find the original data to find out how many subs were stacked etc 

I’ll get back to you 

Cheers 

Bryan 

Many thanks, i did sort of guess it was Cygnus, at the moment that's sort of directly above my house, my garden faces West, so be a good target. I live in rural Bortle 3. The attached image (composite) is the view from my garden/decking. The Milky Way is actually visible to the South (Was) as my garden wraps round. I assume those images are at least 2hrs total stacked integration each?

Ridgeway.jpg

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I'm Bortle 4 this is what I have managed with the 135mm and an astromodded 6D.  Astro-modding the 6D can really make the difference.  Rho & Orion were taken on my mechanical clockwork tracker, Seagull and Spaghetti on my Celestron AVX untracked so both similar to using the Star Adventurer.

Rho_Op_Seq_Stack_V1 (2).jpg

RGB_Final_low.jpg

Orion_Widefield_Final_Low.jpg

Final_V1_Low (1).jpg

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1 hour ago, Zummerzet_Leveller said:

I'm Bortle 4 this is what I have managed with the 135mm and an astromodded 6D.  Astro-modding the 6D can really make the difference.  Rho & Orion were taken on my mechanical clockwork tracker, Seagull and Spaghetti on my Celestron AVX untracked so both similar to using the Star Adventurer.

Rho_Op_Seq_Stack_V1 (2).jpg

RGB_Final_low.jpg

Orion_Widefield_Final_Low.jpg

Final_V1_Low (1).jpg

If you don't mind me asking, what total integration time on average for each of those images?

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2 hours ago, Zummerzet_Leveller said:

6hrs + on this one and I used the Redcat not the 135mm Samyang. Sorry about that.

 

 

Cheers. A Redcat is a purchase way down the line at the moment. Currently looking for a Star Adventurer GTi

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  • 2 weeks later...
2 hours ago, ollypenrice said:

This lens is on my 'perhaps' list and, if I go with it, I'll pester you for advice, Rob!

Olly

No prob mate :)

Youre right on the micro focuser, you cant really do without it!

Put this on the shopping list too, its of my own design (or should is say "concept"..lol.. another chap did the CNC) :

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/astro-essentials-samyang-lens-to-m48-adapter.html

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