Allen key screw is stuck in telescope need some help..

[Olli]

Hi,

 wasn’t sure where to put this but could use with some help. I was trying to take apart my scope so I could fit in my flatner, to do this you have to unscrew these small Allen key type screws. Two of them have come out fine but I have been struggling with one and it just doesn’t seem to come out and is starting to strip the thread. What is the best way to get it out? The Allen keys that it came with don’t seem to be doing much. I’ve tried to find the photo of what I mean. Any help would be great as I don’t want to damage the scope!

[wulfrun]

All depends how brutal you want to be or need to get. First approach would be a good-quality Allen key of the correct size, instead of the soft-cheese ones usually supplied. If that fails, try forcing a Torx bit in, if you can find one that's tight, or a flat-bladed screwdriver that *just* fits across the width of the hex. Last resort, drill it out, starting undersized and progressing (carefully) larger until it falls apart. Anything bar the first option risks doing damage beyond the grub-screw, just depends on your level of "needs to come out".

EDIT: one non-brutal method... coat a sacrificial key in epoxy, insert into the screw-head and let it set. Worth a try if you have  no more advanced tools. Just be extra careful not to get epoxy anywhere other than the screw-head & key!

Edited May 1, 2022 by wulfrun

[Shimrod]

1 hour ago, Olli said:

Hi,

 wasn’t sure where to put this but could use with some help. I was trying to take apart my scope so I could fit in my flatner, to do this you have to unscrew these small Allen key type screws. Two of them have come out fine but I have been struggling with one and it just doesn’t seem to come out and is starting to strip the thread. What is the best way to get it out? The Allen keys that it came with don’t seem to be doing much. I’ve tried to find the photo of what I mean. Any help would be great as I don’t want to damage the scope!

 

If you have to go for the drilling out route as described by @wulfrun you might want to consider a set of these damaged screw extractors  

I had the same problem removing the focuser on my ED80 when upgrading to a Baader Steeltrak. One of the screws came out cleanly, the other two (soft metal) screws just ended up with stripped heads. For me these were much easier than trying to drill the screws out.

[Olli]

24 minutes ago, Shimrod said:

If you have to go for the drilling out route as described by @wulfrun you might want to consider a set of these damaged screw extractors  

I had the same problem removing the focuser on my ED80 when upgrading to a Baader Steeltrak. One of the screws came out cleanly, the other two (soft metal) screws just ended up with stripped heads. For me these were much easier than trying to drill the screws out.

Thanks both for the advice I ideally wouldn’t want to drill them, just ordered some hex drivers hopefully this will help. 

[michael8554]

The secret to loosening tight screws is to tighten them first !

A tiny clockwise turn results in a "click" as the galling is broken.

Also the loosening side of the socket edges isn't being damaged.

Failing that the next techniques have been well described.

Michael

[Gfamily]

I'm just wondering why you need to remove that part.

I have to say I've only just started out with my first flattener, but on my 72mm scope it's simply a case of loosening the large knurled knobs and removing the 2" to 1"25 adapter.

The 2"  flattener then fits into the focuser.

But as I say, I'm only just starting and I could be missing something.

[david_taurus83]

We've all got Allen keys knocking about our houses but most are probably metric. Good idea to get a set of imperial as well when dealing with Chinese made scopes.

[powerlord]

Torque (5 star) type ones are a good start. Also a wee bit of penetrating oil. E. G. Wd40.

Jamming a slightly larger imperial one is also an idea. Or metric if its other way around.

I colour code imperial ones I find so that I remember not to use a nearly fitting metric one with them.

And a set of 'sharp' carbon tipped screwdriver type Allen drivers are worth investing a tenner in instead of the usually rubbish mild steel L shaped ones most folk have hanging around.

 

[Guest]

I will second getting a good quality set of Allen head bits.  It takes so little these days to strip out a screw or bit itself.  Someone recommended trying to tighten it a bit first.  Been down this road many times and it can work and usually does.  The last thing I would try is to get what we call creeping oil.  It's very thin oil and put just the littlest amount on the head.  It will find it's way onto threads.  

[david_taurus83]

18 minutes ago, Mike Q said:

The last thing I would try is to get what we call creeping oil.  It's very thin oil and put just the littlest amount on the head.  It will find it's way onto threads.  

Is that not WD40 in the US?

[jacko61]

On 02/05/2022 at 10:39, Gfamily said:

I'm just wondering why you need to remove that part.

I have to say I've only just started out with my first flattener, but on my 72mm scope it's simply a case of loosening the large knurled knobs and removing the 2" to 1"25 adapter.

The 2"  flattener then fits into the focuser.

But as I say, I'm only just starting and I could be missing something.

The dedicated William optics flatteners replace the entire visual back (the blue bit) as in this pic (obviously mine's gold but it's the same thing..) 

[Guest]

30 minutes ago, david_taurus83 said:

Is that not WD40 in the US?

Not really.  WD-40 is ok for stuff that is only kinda stuck.  Creeping oil is even thinner.  Kroil is the brand of it that I like for getting the REALLY stuck stuff loose.

[wulfrun]

17 minutes ago, Mike Q said:

Not really.  WD-40 is ok for stuff that is only kinda stuck.  Creeping oil is even thinner.  Kroil is the brand of it that I like for getting the REALLY stuck stuff loose.

Plus-Gas is a readily-available UK penetrating oil, probably our equivalent. Unfortunately, the marketing of WD40 means that folk tend to believe it's a cure-all. Diesel fuel also makes a good release oil.

WD40...WD = water-dispersant, 40 = the 40th version/attempt. Originally intended to disperse water from the ignition systems of (military?) vehicles that wouldn't start otherwise, in damp conditions.

Edited May 5, 2022 by wulfrun

[powerlord]

yer man here did some comparisons a while back - he found them all to be much of a muchness

 

 

[david_taurus83]

When WD40 and leverage fails I find an angle grinder works wonders 😊

[Olli]

Thanks everyone for the advice/input. Have managed to book a collection with Flo where they will take a look. Don’t want to do any further damage to the scope so seems like the more sensible choice. Hopefully they can get it out.

[Geoff Barnes]

In typical Aussie style we have this penetrating oil... 🤣🤣🤣

[Guest]

My go-to stuff.  The Kroil is super thin and will find it's way down to the threads.  I forget what I was working on but that bolt was stuck and not moving.  I treated it with kroil a few times throughout the day and the next day.....out it came.  The Ballistol works well as a lube going back in.  Never have issues with stuff coming apart where that has been used.