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[Astronix]

So, I now have some of the gear (enough to be able to get an image). I have acquired an EQM-35 goto mount and tripod, a 72ED telescope, a fully modified Canon 450d DSLR, a Astronomik CLS CCD filter, an Astronomik field flattener, T ring adaptor. So everything screw’s together, I just need a rotator so I can keep the camera straight.

I have rigged it all up to my HP laptop and I am using N.I.N.A. I am having issues with Nina freezing in live view on the laptop, I have set up on my desktop pc and had no problems with that. IT’s obviously not practical to take my desktop outside every time there is a clear night, I am working on getting it to work on the laptop. I uninstalled eqmod, Ascom, and Nina, I then reinstalled them all. I now have a problem with eqmod saying runtime error 55 when I try to start the drivers. I am sure that I will find a fix for this, but still looking.

 I have managed to set everything up and get it working to a point. Polar alignment is bang on, I have managed to get the goto working in the right area of the sky. The problem is I cannot get any views of any stars to focus the camera. I have it in bulb, mode which shows on the live view but it is just black. I have got it to focus on objects during the daytime but they are pretty close to the setup as views from my garden are limited low down. I am just looking for any help and guidance, I am doing something wrong I am just not sure what it is.

any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

[ollypenrice]

Why do you need a field rotator? I've never so much as seen one, let alone used one.

If you are in focus on nearby objects but cannot focus on distant ones, your camera is too far back. (Extension tubes are needed in order to focus astronomical telescopes on nearer terrestrial targets.) However, this may not be your problem.

Your best bet would be to try to focus on the moon because it's at infinity and is very bright and, therefore, unmissable. 

Regarding software, the less of it you introduce, the more likely you are not to have a problem with it! For initial testing, you don't need any at all besides what's in the camera and the mount's handset. Once you can focus in live view on the moon you known that the physical side of your system is working and you can plunge into the darkness of drivers and unrecognized USBs etc.

Olly

Edited April 18, 2022 by ollypenrice

[Astronix]

Thanks for the reply Olly.

 I have tried to focus on the moon, but I just managed a white ball and could not get it to focus. Maybe I am doing something wrong with the camera settings?

 

[PeterCPC]

I agree with Olly on most issues but I find it easier to focus using a Bahtinov mask on a bright star as the Moon can be a bit wibbly wobbly with the atmosphere. Absolutely agree about using minimum of software.

[wimvb]

Focusing on the moon will get you close and is an excellent diagnostic tool. If you can't see any stars, a Bahtinov mask is all but useless. But once you have decent focus, and can see stars, the Bahtinov mask for focusing is hard to beat.

For a beginner, it's best to adhere to the KISS principle.

[Astronix]

I am wondering if I have made a mistake buying a fully modded camera?

[wimvb]

8 minutes ago, Astronix said:

I am wondering if I have made a mistake buying a fully modded camera?

No, others use them with good results. It should also keep its resale value if you decide to invest in an astro camera. But a dslr has a 45 mm flange to sensor distance, the T-adaptor has a 10 mm thickness. Your flattener probably has an optimal distance to sensor of 55 mm (most flatteners do). This means that you can't put anything between the camera and flattener without introducing star errors. But you still need to focus on something distant, be it the moon or a high building, including a high mast of sorts.

Edited April 18, 2022 by wimvb

[PeterCPC]

Just a suggestion but you might find it easier to use Sharpcap initially rather than NINA. It can be more straightforward to the uninitiated (like me).

[ollypenrice]

If the camera can generate images by day then it must be more or less OK.

The key question regarding your attempt to focus on the moon is this: once you had something recognizably moon-like on the screen, did you still have freedom to move the focuser in and out or were you close to the limit of travel in either direction? If you still had room to go either way, note that position (pencil on the draw tube) and try it on a bright star. If you couldn't move further in one of the focus directions then you might simply be out of distance.

Olly

[Astronix]

I think that I have the 55mm clearance from the sensor and it’s good to know I made the right choice purchasing it.

I did download sharpcap but I thought it was just for dedicated cameras, I will have another look. I was thinking that it looked a bit more user friendly.

 I did have room to move the focuser, so I will give your suggestion a go next time the skies are clear.

 

[PeterCPC]

You are correct - my mistake.

An alternative to Sharpcap would be Backyard EOS - you can get a free trial.

Edited April 18, 2022 by PeterCPC

[Astronix]

I tried backyard eos and had the same problem that I did with Nina. Must be a problem with my laptop, but I am pretty sure that I can fix that.

 

[Swillis]

An image of your setup may help others diagnose the issue?  And possibly rule out something simple...

[Astronix]

Although the attachment at the scope is a slot in type I do have a screw in adapter as well, I tried this as a last ditch attempt to see if it made any difference.

[AstroNebulee]

16 hours ago, Astronix said:

Although the attachment at the scope is a slot in type I do have a screw in adapter as well, I tried this as a last ditch attempt to see if it made any difference.

What is this bit arrowed on your set up, an extension tube? As a test can you achieve focus on the moon or stars without it on your scope? I'm pretty sure that part is causing your focus issue. 

If your FF has a nose piece you can fit to it or if it came with one you can do away with the rotator and slide it into the focus tube and adjust the position of your dslr and tighten the thumbscrews. 

I've attached an image of my ovl FF (basically same as yours) with the nose piece on it and a rough image of mine connected when I used to use a dslr on my 72ed. 

I've since started using a 294mc pro with a rotator and not using my dslr any more, but you should achieve focus. Your imaging train should be scope - field flattener (with nose piece) - t ring - dslr 

Cheers 

Lee 

 

Edited April 19, 2022 by AstroNebulee
addition

[Astronix]

That’s really interesting, I will have a play around with it later and let you know if it makes any difference. But it definitely makes sense.

Thanks 

[Astronix]

So removed the the extension piece and now can achieve focus, thanks everyone especially Astronebulee.

Will try it out tonight looks like a may get a little bit of clear sky😂👍

 

[AstroNebulee]

2 hours ago, Astronix said:

So removed the the extension piece and now can achieve focus, thanks everyone especially Astronebulee.

Will try it out tonight looks like a may get a little bit of clear sky😂👍

 

Great, pleased you've got focus achieved now. I see that it's all screwed together now, did your Stella mira FF come with a nose piece? If you wanted to frame your dslr image differently reattach the original visual back to the focus tube (arrowed in orange) then slide the FF with nose piece into the visual back and tightern thumbscrews, thus us what I used to fo with my dslr so scope with thumbscrew visual back - FF with nose piece - t ring-dslr 

Edited April 20, 2022 by AstroNebulee

[Astronix]

Just a quick post to say thanks again.

I did manage to get a few pictures last weekend of the M101, and I was really pleased to see the galaxy appeared after stacking the images.

The problem was the extension piece in front of the FF, it was stopping me from focussing inward enough.

My first images were very noisy as I think that my ISO setting of 1600 was too high. Now that I am confident that I am getting focus, l will be taking more time on taking test images. I am also going to be a bit more patient when using the Bahtinov mask to get proper focus.

once again thank you for all the advice. I should be able to get a half decent image soon, once all the clouds have gone anyway.