Jump to content

SkySurveyBanner.jpg.21855908fce40597655603b6c9af720d.jpg

QHY268M & QHY268C Users Thread (Please share your knowledge and tips)


Recommended Posts

Just ran the sensor analysis on my QHY268c and the results are quite surprising, as they do not match the published QHY charts at all….I think they made it look a lot more appealing as regards Fullwell especially…

top one is Mode 1 and bottom one is the Mode 0 photographic mode…

 

D0464846-1B79-4D32-89FB-FF3089F9902D.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What results look like the published values (within reason) ?

I am still looking at your results and taking it in but certainly the fulwell looks very similar to the published chart, but figures a bit lower if anything than the published data.
.
image.png.47e18253bb638a2fb9b23ac9d08b1042.png

Read Noise looks almost same as published.
image.png.b30c1d6dd6e95fce1e31e6391a57c943.png

Am I missing something (normally do 🙂 )

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

37 minutes ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

What results look like the published values (within reason) ?

I am still looking at your results and taking it in but certainly the fulwell looks very similar to the published chart, but figures a bit lower if anything than the published data.
.
image.png.47e18253bb638a2fb9b23ac9d08b1042.png

Read Noise looks almost same as published.
image.png.b30c1d6dd6e95fce1e31e6391a57c943.png

Am I missing something (normally do 🙂 )

Steve

Fullwell shows 50,000 max on mine and published it over 60,000, on Mode 1

Also at gain 56 on mode 1 mine shows Fullwell of approx 23,000 and QHY chart shows over 30,000 

On mode 0 at gain 26 mine shows approx 34,000 and QHY chart shows over 40,000

shall I go on…..😂😂

Edited by Stuart1971
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry, just read your post again, when I first read it I thought you said the results you got made it look more appealing, now I see you said that QHY made it look more appealing.

I need to go to spec savers.
Yes I agree somewhere I have the results from when I ran the sensor analysis and I think they were also a little worse than published, sort of in the same ball park but I think less, I will have another look see if same as yours.

Steve

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also the read noise e/ADU never reaches 1e/ADU the highest is 0.78, so a unity gain in mode 1 is not possible, the QHY chart says that unity is gain zero in mode 1 @ 1e/ADU…🤔🤔 so all in all it’s a bit misleading, and if you look on the Sharpcap forums, many people have said the same that there findings don’t match the published charts….

Im not concerned at all, but it’s worth running the test in Sharpcap on your camera….👍🏼

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, scotty38 said:

Apart from picking the best sensors, would anyone know how close the Sharpcap tool is to what QHY would use? Do different tools even matter???

I would suspect there could be big difference between the tools used, but it’s no surprise really that the manufacturer would push the figures up, to make it more competitive in the market….

Link to comment
Share on other sites

image.png.7f84fb8f52782eece5e81e7f529851d9.png
image.thumb.png.a47a1e3c84d710e59e25ed6fc98becfa.png

 

image.png.38d473d8913920db16d73220ea75af83.png
image.thumb.png.dffd0e3b88d9274ddceede6110accf4b.png

Here are my results, top two are mode 1 and lower 2 Mode 0.
In each case top of the two are my results and lower are @Stuart1971Certainly in mode 0 both pretty much the same, in mode 1 mine is slightly worse for fullwell anyway.

What I am not sure of is whether my test was totally valid, I am using my flat panel as a light scource and it suggests using a natural light source, also I did not go and cap my scope for the darks but just turned off the plat panel light and selected the SII filter (I would have to remove the flat panel to fit the scope cap) so although in a darkish garage I suspect some ligt will leak through for the darks.

Steve

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

image.png.7f84fb8f52782eece5e81e7f529851d9.png
image.thumb.png.a47a1e3c84d710e59e25ed6fc98becfa.png

 

image.png.38d473d8913920db16d73220ea75af83.png
image.thumb.png.dffd0e3b88d9274ddceede6110accf4b.png

Here are my results, top two are mode 1 and lower 2 Mode 0.
In each case top of the two are my results and lower are @Stuart1971Certainly in mode 0 both pretty much the same, in mode 1 mine is slightly worse for fullwell anyway.

What I am not sure of is whether my test was totally valid, I am using my flat panel as a light scource and it suggests using a natural light source, also I did not go and cap my scope for the darks but just turned off the plat panel light and selected the SII filter (I would have to remove the flat panel to fit the scope cap) so although in a darkish garage I suspect some ligt will leak through for the darks.

Steve

I used my Deep sky dad flats panel too, set on 1000, and just turned off the light when needed too, but mine is under a black cover in a pitch black obsy, so no light leak

 very similar results really, but yours is Mono, so not sure what difference that should make…🤔🤔

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Something a bit more  basic, while imaging tonight my 268c returned a QHY error message repeatedly saying the supply voltage was too low (below 11V). I checked the on scope power distribution and it was rock steady at 12.4V, cooling was running at 37% capacity, no fluctuations. The message came back every time I cleared it, I eventually disconnected it from NINA and reconnected, so far the message has not returned...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

25 minutes ago, tomato said:

Something a bit more  basic, while imaging tonight my 268c returned a QHY error message repeatedly saying the supply voltage was too low (below 11V). I checked the on scope power distribution and it was rock steady at 12.4V, cooling was running at 37% capacity, no fluctuations. The message came back every time I cleared it, I eventually disconnected it from NINA and reconnected, so far the message has not returned...

Strange one…I too had a couple of odd errors tonight in NINA with my QHY268c, to do with the cooling graph, the temp was coming down on the camera, but the graph showed that cooler was not on, and the cooler power line was flat at the bottom of the chart…this changed after about a minute or so….🤔🤔

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Stuart1971 said:

Strange one…I too had a couple of odd errors tonight in NINA with my QHY268c, to do with the cooling graph, the temp was coming down on the camera, but the graph showed that cooler was not on, and the cooler power line was flat at the bottom of the chart…this changed after about a minute or so….🤔🤔

Very odd about the voltage monitor, I hope just a one off blip.

The cooling issue I have had the very same in EKOS where the cooling seems to get confused and have read one or two other threads on other forums with the same issue, always easily resolved by rebooting the camera and only seems to happen in the initial cooling not when cooled and running.
I do not know it these issues are all down to the driver but many threads are out there talking about QHY's flakey drivers.

Steve

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@teoria_del_big_bang had a bit of a strange one since fitting my deep sky dad flats panel…

I use the UPB V2 and have the panel connected to that along with my mount and QHY camera, and a mini PC on the always on 12v power port, and I noticed that when I power it all on the PC comes on, then a second later when the 4 power ports initialise and come on, the PC was going off….so I unplugged the flats panel, and tried again, and all came on as normal, so plugged it back in again, and same thing PC light comes on, the QHY, mount and flats panel come on and PC goes off, I can’t get the PC to stay on with the flats panel plugged in, unless I turn the panel on after all the others and the PC has booted up…

Its like the surge of power to the 4 power ports takes it away from the other 12v always on port, but it’s fine with just mount and camera, but with the flats panel no chance….

Its not really an issue as the power ports can be controlled and turned on in NINA after it’s all booted up, but it still an a odd one, and I know you have the Pegasus UPB wondered if you had anything like this with yours…??

Stuart

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok well I think I am getting somewhere at last, 53 x 2 min subs with QHY268c, before clouds rolled in, with the Optolong L-Xtreme filter, wow this filter is good….

Quite pleased with the result from such a small amount of data…..

what do you guys think….a bit noisy I know…but needs more data….👍🏼

 

25ECDF67-3E9D-4095-BF5A-D477A14B3FEF.jpeg

Edited by Stuart1971
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Hope I’m not off topic here but I’m considering buying the QHY268M and would like to know if I can hardware bin 2x2 and also does the camera support ROI for deep sky imaging? The ASI2600MM supports both in their specs.

thanks,

Rob

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, Rob_Jn said:

Hope I’m not off topic here but I’m considering buying the QHY268M and would like to know if I can hardware bin 2x2 and also does the camera support ROI for deep sky imaging? The ASI2600MM supports both in their specs.

thanks,

Rob

2X2 binning yes.

It does state that ROI is supported at higher frame rates but I thought this was only used for planetary imaging, but not used it so I cannot really comment.

Steve 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

So I've finally joined the QHY268 club :) My QHY268M arrived earlier this week along with the QHYCFW3 slim model along with 36mm unmounted LRGB SHO filters. I've got all the drivers and software running fine, and have installed all the filters (see first two pictures below illustrating which side of the filter faces the telescope and which side faces the camera).

Tonight, I mounted the camera to my Redcat and took some flat frames just to see how they look, and more importantly, to see how much dust I left on the filters/sensor. I took them using NINA flat assistant aiming for 30,000 ADU. Light source was a video LED panel with multipe layers of white t-shirt to diffuse the light.

Below are my master flat images (n=15 subs in each master) with an auto STF, in order of LRGB SHO. It looks like I have a small amount of dust on my sensor or telescope lens since the dust motes stay in the same place across different filters, but I'm more concerned with the halo/reflection in my Green and SHO filter flats. I'm sure I orientated the filters in the right direction, but I have read that some people prefer to use the plastic 3D printed masks for mounting filters in the wheel instead of the felt pads provided with the filter wheel. The reason to use the 3D printed masks is to eliminate any issues caused from light rerfracting/reflecting from the edges of the filters.

Do these flats look about right or should I source some 3D printed masks and use them instead? Or perhaps something else is going on?

This side faces the telescope

DSC_1627_copy_3628x2721.thumb.jpg.6235bef8a42f9ba04ff5648f89244fd6.jpg

 

This side faces the camera

DSC_1628_copy_3628x2721.thumb.jpg.0625a7d84ea955e04652f9adf4d04582.jpg


 

Luminance

masterFlat_BIN-1_FILTER-L_Mono_FILTER-L.thumb.jpg.c28b4b1818b2dc38036bf709c14162f4.jpg

 

Red

masterFlat_BIN-1_FILTER-R_Mono_FILTER-R.thumb.jpg.bb1f24f6cf1e0bf9f4be210955befd48.jpg

 

Green

masterFlat_BIN-1_FILTER-G_Mono_FILTER-G.thumb.jpg.0af196c74f8e331e394c770c6ad0f339.jpg

 

Blue

masterFlat_BIN-1_FILTER-B_Mono_FILTER-B.thumb.jpg.1a695baf1ad6f815b18619d911eb0dc7.jpg

 

SII

masterFlat_BIN-1_FILTER-S_Mono_FILTER-S.thumb.jpg.1038a6c44ab35ab8622a5eb66664ceeb.jpg

 

H-alpha

masterFlat_BIN-1_FILTER-H_Mono_FILTER-H.thumb.jpg.51dd6e516e4be210923711e44a57b4cf.jpg

 

OIII

masterFlat_BIN-1_FILTER-O_Mono_FILTER-O.thumb.jpg.ae38540c0c9c706d91bc2978e59e5ac4.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.