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294MC Pro, L-eXtreme and a bunch of flats......


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3 hours ago, scitmon said:

The ZWO mini filter wheel that I'm using can be reversed.

Not the case if you mount a 1.25” into the ZWO adaptor that comes with the camera. There just isn’t enough thread left to mount the camera to the scope. Just found my filter to be ‘the wrong way around’ so not sure how to fix that without turning the glass around and I’m not doing that on a £180 filter. It will likely go back to FLO if it’s a factory mounting issue. 
 

Tried a fudge and the first is with threads toward the sensor (as one would expect and the only way I can mount mine. Second is the reversed filter with threads toward the scope. Major difference is down each side. 

2F85925F-23D8-4C4C-A04E-8C796BCFC341.jpeg

7BF4A53E-3A60-4DD3-9ED6-463EE5FD0EC0.jpeg

Edited by PadrePeace
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1 hour ago, PadrePeace said:

Not the case if you mount a 1.25” into the ZWO adaptor that comes with the camera. There just isn’t enough thread left to mount the camera to the scope. Just found my filter to be ‘the wrong way around’ so not sure how to fix that without turning the glass around and I’m not doing that on a £180 filter. It will likely go back to FLO if it’s a factory mounting issue. 

Generally having the filter reversed will cause reflections as opposed to altering the underlying filtering performance. So not sure it would effect calibration to have it reversed. 

Adam

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I've cracked a way to get past FLATS issues with the extreme / ASI294MC combo.

Having now definitely given up the ghost on using FLATs with the Optolong L-Extreme Dual Band filter and my ASI294MC this is now my go to method for stacking and processing. The image here was a test last night with limited subs capture in 86% moon.  The filter was mounted 'threads toward the sensor' which Optolong say is wrong but hey, who cares as I cannot mount it the other way around.  

This was 15 x 360s dual band 1x1 subs cooled to -10C at 121 gain in 86% moon conditions which is far from great even for a 7nm filter. The subs looked pretty poor I must say but I wasn't looking for a keeper.   I first stacked Ha and OIII separately in APP with only darks which produced two greyscale images, I then pulled the minimal background LP and filter induced colour out with the APP Light Pollution tool, stripped the stars out with Straton, processed the starless Ha and OIII individually in PS, added on a synthetic green layer to get an RGB effect (optional) , added the stars back in and bingo....  This is how I'm going to deal with the Extreme filter going forward I think so the 294MC lives on for now. Thoughts?

20220113-Heart_Soul_DualHa_OIII_extracted_Darks_lpc_360s_1x1_G121_-10C-Final2 copy.jpg

Edited by PadrePeace
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On 14/01/2022 at 20:54, PadrePeace said:

I first stacked Ha and OIII separately in APP

Does this mean you went through every sub and split the RGB channels individually?

On the face of it that sounds time consuming but with Narrowband I suppose the number of subs isn't as much as broadband sub numbers.

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2 hours ago, scitmon said:

Does this mean you went through every sub and split the RGB channels individually?

On the face of it that sounds time consuming but with Narrowband I suppose the number of subs isn't as much as broadband sub numbers.

APP has the facility to extract Ha and Oiii from the stack. It's a two pass thing though, choose one then repeat and choose the other...

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12 hours ago, scitmon said:

Does this mean you went through every sub and split the RGB channels individually?

On the face of it that sounds time consuming but with Narrowband I suppose the number of subs isn't as much as broadband sub numbers.

 

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Just now, PadrePeace said:

 

Sorry if my explanation wasn’t clear. I put all of my dual band subs and associated darks into APP. I then make the selection as shown below for APP to draw out the Ha from the dual band data. I then set it running to integrate the subs. Repeat this process for oxygen and you end up with two files one OIII and the second Ha.

4848E9CA-2DEA-4940-8C91-CCA03C0C74D2.jpeg

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On 13/01/2022 at 14:00, scotty38 said:

Oh well I was hoping I'd made a mistake and had an easy, if somewhat embarrassing, fix 🙂

In the interests of transparency it would appear I am a bigger idiot than I thought I was....

I think I have fixed my issue and it seems to be down to offsets. This is all using ASCOM drivers and examining fits headers etc I found discrepancies where some show an offset of 8 and others show nothing. I recently built a new mini pc and on checking it's, of course, using the default offset of 30. This also explain why some of my l-extreme images were ok (not the ones where Vlaiv found a darks issue too but again that was the offset) but nthey were taken prior to building the mini pc.

Using matching offsets for all the files and all is good as you'd expect. What I cannot explain is why the offset was 8 as I have no reason why I'd have changed it and also do not know why some files have the offset in the header and some do not but anyway at least I know why now.

Sorry for the inconvenience and I can now get back to taking nicely calibrated but crappy images.....

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3 hours ago, scotty38 said:

In the interests of transparency it would appear I am a bigger idiot than I thought I was....

I think I have fixed my issue and it seems to be down to offsets. This is all using ASCOM drivers and examining fits headers etc I found discrepancies where some show an offset of 8 and others show nothing. I recently built a new mini pc and on checking it's, of course, using the default offset of 30. This also explain why some of my l-extreme images were ok (not the ones where Vlaiv found a darks issue too but again that was the offset) but nthey were taken prior to building the mini pc.

Using matching offsets for all the files and all is good as you'd expect. What I cannot explain is why the offset was 8 as I have no reason why I'd have changed it and also do not know why some files have the offset in the header and some do not but anyway at least I know why now.

Sorry for the inconvenience and I can now get back to taking nicely calibrated but crappy images.....

So are you now calibrating Dual band flats with your subs and they are working? Thanks for your heads-up on offsets. I’ll check mine.

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5 minutes ago, PadrePeace said:

So are you now calibrating Dual band flats with your subs and they are working? Thanks for your heads-up on offsets. I’ll check mine.

Yes I am. My finished images aren't any better so if you can find a fix for that.... 🙂

Edited by scotty38
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2 minutes ago, PadrePeace said:

slightly confused Sorry. Are you saying your flats don’t do what they should? If so, what has aligning  the offsets done?

Sorry, no I was being flippant about my processing skils.

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Just a screenshot.. I'll sort the files, give me a minute

Here you go, you'll have to ignore the gradient and the poor framing, I'm imaging right now to fix the latter at least....

Screenshot_20220120_200148.thumb.png.3f4c85f4ce060d44065da30e9d96f649.png

Edited by scotty38
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6 minutes ago, scotty38 said:

Just a screenshot.. I'll sort the files, give me a minute

Here you go, you'll have to ignore the gradient and the poor framing, I'm imaging right now to fix the latter at least....

Screenshot_20220120_200148.thumb.png.3f4c85f4ce060d44065da30e9d96f649.png

Now I have to work out why your master  flat looks different to the one I have coming out of APP? (As attached) what’s the yellow colour all about. Is this Flat neutralised?

3A5AE8AF-1EE7-4DDA-ABF1-20DCC0FB2A89.jpeg

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22 minutes ago, scotty38 said:

Yep:

Screenshot_20220120_204755.thumb.png.cb98534f2e4039fc9a742c83345d8c20.png

Great. That’s what I’m getting but just a different pattern which is clearly a fingerprint of my specific setup. Thanks for helping with images. Paints a thousand words. Glad you got your kit working well. 

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