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Final equipment addings


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Hi all,

We are by the end of this year, and i enjoyed the last years into astro regarding all issues and breaks i was going through, but i never give up and it helped me to keep going, and i am almost putting some final touches to my gear so i can be ready next years as much as i can.

 

A. I had issues with guiding in the past, didn't know why, but i finally figured out why, very shame that i wasted like 2 years without solving the guiding issue only just recently, so this require me a question now as long i solved the guiding issue and also asking again what is the solution if i need to.

    1. What guiding scope you can recommend me to get beside the one i already have which QHY mini guide scope? I have ZWO 60 one but i don't like it at all, and the weight of ST80 for now isn't a good choice, i will have two separate dual imaging system, i might use this mini guide scope with the lightweight or with the heavy, which means i need another one, but not QHY mini guide scope again, OAG is included but i don't know if it is a good idea with small to medium scopes sizes anyway.

 

B. Plate Solving now became like a necessary for my imaging, sounds i am wasting some time nowadays only to do stars alignment every time before imaging, and sometimes it just take longer time than it should be, and also i fail in meridian flipping, not sure how can i do imaging smooth and good enough without solving those two.

    2. What is a good plate solving software to use? I am using SGPro for now, not sure when i will move to NINA but maybe sooner than later, so i don't know if there is like a stand alone for that or use the integrated one, your advice. Also with meridian flipping, is there a better way to do it without issues like the frame is shifted or focus being lost or maybe cable disconnect for a device by accident?

 

C. As long i am increasing my equipment i need to make it like complete, so now i am having many different scopes i am thinking about buying many autofocuser or motors to match them, and i want to match few of them with color, i have one already, so will think about more.

    3. What autofocuser rather than ZWO EAF i can buy that has either blue color or black? I have Pegasus one for my 90 triplet, i want to buy same or another one if blue for my small 60mm one that has blue touch, people don't care about it, yes, but i prefer to be in sync with colors, i have FRA400 so EAF will be the one, also the second 60mm it will be red so another EAF i will choose, i just don't want to have ALL my scopes only with EAF and only with Pegasus, refractors are almost done of choices with colors, while my Newt i don't know, one has blue and the other is just black and white, i am not in rush to buy motors all now, but i will have time to add them to my order list and buy them one by one, i might buy two EAF for two red lines scopes, the rest i can wait.

 

D. In future i might or might not get a full frame sensor for astro, but if that is in my mind and plan i want to know about how good to go with it if many keep saying that sometimes it is more issues than it is helpful, for example matching scopes, but i see some people buying it regardless what they are using it with or for what, so i don't want to keep myself away from this option or avoid it forever.

    4. If i plan to get a full frame, should i go with mono or OSC? And if i go with mono for any reason, should i make sure that i only buy 2" size filters for my smaller sensors now so i just be ready if i upgrade? I have APS-C both mono and color, i don't know if 36mm is enough for this sensor size, i just try to add some 2" filters for it in case i go larger in sensor, and for color cameras it is easier and more affordable to have 2" than mono filters, i bought UV/IR cut at 2" for my OSC, i also bought Ha 3nm 2", now i am thinking about dual band filter and SII filter [OIII i will stay with small sensor only as i have Chroma OIII 3nm 1.25" or getting it from the dual band filter], should i get SII 3nm as 36mm or as 2"? At the end i won't use a full frame with full set all filters anyway, the full frame if OSC will be used with Lum or dual band filters only, if mono then only Ha and/or Lum for details.

 

For now those above are my main plan to finish this year or soon except the last point, just the SII filter i can make it soon if i know the choice, or wait to see some new items coming for filters then i can decide, i can't wait to put my gear into use as soon as possible, i used my new scope by 1st-2nd date one night for narrowbanding target, and i made sure to use all filters that night, i got data, but they are not good or not enough for 1 night, but that gave me a hope that once i add another camera to get busy with a filter then i can have enough data per night, and i can make an extra night only to finer the details more, rather than using 1 setup which it was a headache after all, i hated imaging with 1 setup no matter how good i make everything, i was lucky to get data of three NB filters, but i know it isn't good enough, and soon i will process the data and post elsewhere to see the quality of scope optic maybe, stars are bad because no dedicated flattener/reducer and no correct back focus.

Sorry for typing this, but i am really getting to finish this small setup very soon, so only left serious bigger setup in future such as a better mount and larger aperture scope for visual or even larger scope for smaller distant targets, but that is for future plan, for my current mount i can use it for small setup either dual or triple, will see how can i put it all together.

 

Thank you,

Tareq

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29 minutes ago, bottletopburly said:

Get  Astap working in your software of choice for platesolving, deepskydad autofocus units are very good take a look at https://shop.deepskydad.com 

Hi,

Thank you very very much for replying me at least, i appreciate it a lot.

Ok, i will look at ASTAP, and also i will see what DSD will offer me for autofocusing, thanks 😊

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If you're looking for a compact guide scope you can't go wrong with an SVbony SV165, 30mm aperture and 120mm focal length, the focal length may be too short to match with your st80 though (it should be at least a third of your telescope focal length).

Regarding camera, what are your light pollution conditions like? Remember one shot colour cameras take the whole colour image in one go but mono you can achieve the same in similar time as you are using 100% of the pixels in full dynamic range, in colour you are using only 25-50% of the pixels per channel due to the Bayer colour matrix filter.

I think you need to try to concentrate on finalising one setup you're happy with before moving onto a secondary one.

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3 hours ago, Elp said:
  1. If you're looking for a compact guide scope you can't go wrong with an SVbony SV165, 30mm aperture and 120mm focal length, the focal length may be too short to match with your st80 though (it should be at least a third of your telescope focal length).
  2. Regarding camera, what are your light pollution conditions like? Remember one shot colour cameras take the whole colour image in one go but mono you can achieve the same in similar time as you are using 100% of the pixels in full dynamic range, in colour you are using only 25-50% of the pixels per channel due to the Bayer colour matrix filter.
  3. I think you need to try to concentrate on finalising one setup you're happy with before moving onto a secondary one.

Ok, i numbered your reply so you can reply back by numbers as well.

1. I will look at this recommendation or choice you mentioned, SVbony is having good reviews these days, so i assume their guide scope will be good enough and good price, just i hope it isn't same focuser as my ZWO 60mm, helical focuser that rotate whole thing, the camera, i have that, will see.

2. I am under Bortle 8/9, but i feel like if the target is rising high in the sky then LP is less, like it became Bortle 6/7 high by zenith, i got many targets narrowbanding fine, even Orion and Horsehead nebula with boradbaning, so i can work on that as much i can. Regarding the color camera, i bought it so i just focus once and leave it to collect data whole night, with using LRGB filters most likely i couldn't finish all filters at best, so i always have missing or lacking data there, or at least one filter is bad result mainly the blue, so i wanted to save time with color camera to capture as much as i can without worrying about changing filters and refocusing much if the filters are parfocal, so if i will spend like 2-4 hours with RGB i better use the color camera, after all people told me that the details is from the lum, not from the color RGB mostly, and i will take lum with the mono camera and leave colors for color camera.

3. i can't finalise ne setup now because i know i will keep changing and modifying it several times with new added gear, so i better finish at the end when i get all or most gear i can get, i am doing like dual or multiple imaging setup, so i am not using one setup anyway, and if i can manage to finalise dual or triple setup then it will be easy for me to finalise one setup if i have to, why wasting time with one setup and everything good then when i add something else i do it all over again and i need to rearrange my setup again, it is like i do the job twice when i can make it one time only.

 

Regarding the last point, i am working on that, i have 5 cameras, 2 of them are the same sensor and another two are also same sensor but one is OSC[color] and one mono, so i am trying to finalise the two same sensor mono first, i ordered two scopes for that [60ED doublets], one arrive which i tested 1st night of this month or say 1st-2nd night, pity the other scope is still not shipped, kind of the seller is making unnecessary delay, and i told him i am giving him like 6-7 days of December, now left like 3 days i think, if nothing then i will ask him to refund and buy same scope of another brand elsewhere, then two cameras will be done, but because both are mono and doublets i was thinking i will use them only for narrowbanding, moe forgiving, and because they are lightweight setup then i can add third scope so i use each camera with different filter, i saw some did this and it worked nicely, i will not say i won't see issues, it is part of challenge, i have issues even with one setup anyway, so i will make sure it will work, then later the other two cameras [APS] i will try find matched for them, i have two APO scopes, one is a triplet and the other is a quintuplet, both are great but different aperture and different focal length, i am thinking to be same scope of either and then i will be done with those two cameras as well, i got those scopes and cameras by last year and this year, so in the past i wasn't doing any imaging enough, i was focus on planetary which is another story, now i am trying to finish DSO rigs then i am relaxing and slowing down or taking my time.

 

Thank you very much for your answer, good you didn't ignore it and made a time to say something, also appreciate it so much 👍

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1. To focus with the sv165 you unlock/unscrew the red locking ring which acts as a physical stop. Once it's unlocked you screw/unscrew the front objective lens until your stars are focused, the camera at the rear remains in position and orientation. The screwing/unscrewing of the front objective is a bit of a pain but once it's done you can lock the red ring back up and the focus remains there abouts where it was set even after removal or reassembly of the scope. I bought it for the very reason it's small and light, I believe zwo sell the exact same scope under their own branding.

2. Under bortle 8/9 you will always struggle to get the same signal to noise ratio in colour compared to mono, even with a filter like the l-enhance or l-extreme and use of those are only applicable to certain targets. I think you have lots of cameras and experience to utilise and see what works, is there any reason you are looking for full frame, have you tried mosaics as another option?

B2. Have you tried EKOS as it's platesolving works quite well, I believe it uses astap as well or astrometry, I have used it via a raspberry pi running astroberry a nice portable solution. Platesolving with an asiair is even easier though you are tied to using zwo cameras with the asiair.

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7 hours ago, Elp said:

1. To focus with the sv165 you unlock/unscrew the red locking ring which acts as a physical stop. Once it's unlocked you screw/unscrew the front objective lens until your stars are focused, the camera at the rear remains in position and orientation. The screwing/unscrewing of the front objective is a bit of a pain but once it's done you can lock the red ring back up and the focus remains there abouts where it was set even after removal or reassembly of the scope. I bought it for the very reason it's small and light, I believe zwo sell the exact same scope under their own branding.

2. Under bortle 8/9 you will always struggle to get the same signal to noise ratio in colour compared to mono, even with a filter like the l-enhance or l-extreme and use of those are only applicable to certain targets. I think you have lots of cameras and experience to utilise and see what works, is there any reason you are looking for full frame, have you tried mosaics as another option?

B2. Have you tried EKOS as it's platesolving works quite well, I believe it uses astap as well or astrometry, I have used it via a raspberry pi running astroberry a nice portable solution. Platesolving with an asiair is even easier though you are tied to using zwo cameras with the asiair.

I will keep looking at more options or choices for guide scope, you gave me one, others gave me more, so i will read them and see which one has less hassle and good price and performance, i hope i choose the right one that i will be happy to use and keep it for long time, i might add OAG just i case.

Well, i saw some used OSc under Bortle 8/9, i have to give it a try, i won't say it will be any better than a mono, but i have enough mono cameras that i feel i should try OSC anyway, and i did buy one good, so i will see how it will treat me under our sky, and i will go at targets i feel it is easier and away from LP effect, Orion for example, i will be happy if it can give me acceptable results, who knows. Regarding a full frame, i just keep it in my mind, not saying i will buy it for sure, i just feel like for how long i will keep avoiding thinking or getting a full frame, others bought it for nice work and being happy, so it is like i only stay away from it because i am not good at it or my gear isn't, then when it will be the time? And Mosaic for me is more time spending and maybe worse trying than using a full frame itself, i still try to do one frame rather than a mosaic, but i will keep that in mind for future, but if i will include mosaic then why not include a full frame as well for any reason.

I am not thinking about ZWO ASIAir for now, and EKOS is ok as long if i know how to use it, it sounds i should use something like Raspberry Pi for it, which i have, but i am thinking about buying a mini PC, but there are other options for plate solving, i got one, and someone told me to use NINA as it has one i think, i feel that NINA will solve many problems i have, i should think seriously to use NINA again and get used to it as soon as possible, no time wasting now with outdated software or one with issues and lacking some features needed somehow.

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55 minutes ago, TareqPhoto said:

I will keep looking at more options or choices for guide scope, you gave me one, others gave me more, so i will read them and see which one has less hassle and good price and performance, i hope i choose the right one that i will be happy to use and keep it for long time, i might add OAG just i case.

Well, i saw some used OSc under Bortle 8/9, i have to give it a try, i won't say it will be any better than a mono, but i have enough mono cameras that i feel i should try OSC anyway, and i did buy one good, so i will see how it will treat me under our sky, and i will go at targets i feel it is easier and away from LP effect, Orion for example, i will be happy if it can give me acceptable results, who knows. Regarding a full frame, i just keep it in my mind, not saying i will buy it for sure, i just feel like for how long i will keep avoiding thinking or getting a full frame, others bought it for nice work and being happy, so it is like i only stay away from it because i am not good at it or my gear isn't, then when it will be the time? And Mosaic for me is more time spending and maybe worse trying than using a full frame itself, i still try to do one frame rather than a mosaic, but i will keep that in mind for future, but if i will include mosaic then why not include a full frame as well for any reason.

I am not thinking about ZWO ASIAir for now, and EKOS is ok as long if i know how to use it, it sounds i should use something like Raspberry Pi for it, which i have, but i am thinking about buying a mini PC, but there are other options for plate solving, i got one, and someone told me to use NINA as it has one i think, i feel that NINA will solve many problems i have, i should think seriously to use NINA again and get used to it as soon as possible, no time wasting now with outdated software or one with issues and lacking some features needed somehow.

I have recently moved to NINA on a mini PC from ekos/kstars on RPi4 and the performance is far superior.

the package that you get with NINA now is very comprehensive and is developing all the time. the advanced sequencer is fantastic and platesolving is a dream.

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2 hours ago, CedricTheBrave said:

I have recently moved to NINA on a mini PC from ekos/kstars on RPi4 and the performance is far superior.

the package that you get with NINA now is very comprehensive and is developing all the time. the advanced sequencer is fantastic and platesolving is a dream.

Great, i already have RPi4 that i never used but bought it for curiosity, will not choose it then as i know with a mini PC i will be in love all the way, i am a computer guy with several laptops, so i am good with Windows and Mac and not Linux based OS.

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