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Last night I ran the FC-76 and the FC-100 next to each other on the Mini Giro Ercole. Both were impressive - both managed to detect galaxies M81 and M82 and Ring Neb M57. The galaxies in particular were clearer and brighter in the FC100 (predictably).

Both showed Hercules Glob M13, but what was remarkable was that the FC-100 was showing quite a lot of resolved stars with averted vision, and this is in Bottle 8 skies at maybe 40 degrees above the horizon. The CC6 did show a somewhat brighter image on M13 but not any additional resolution above the FC -100; the FC-100 had better contrast but also the sky condition was a limiting factor.

Most interestingly at low magnification, whilst star fields and asterisms were, wonderfully sharp and stars were colourful in both Taks, I did actually find that the FC-76 was slightly sharper than the FC-100, particularly on bright stars! The FC-76 (standard DC focuser) always snaps to super sharp focus easily, whilst the FC-100 is slightly harder to focus super sharp on brighter stars using the same focuser. Possibly due to the higher aperture.

So I don't think I will ever change the focuser in the FC-76, but at some point in the future I might consider changing the pinion or the focuser on the FC-100. This would be a luxury rather than a necessity, the stock focusers are good.

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What a beautiful scope and a great photo! A good reminder to enjoy the scopes we have - I also tend to get a bit obsessive about chasing them. Meanwhile I have packed the Tak and its lightweight

This might give you an idea of how brighter DSO's appear through an FC100, when you get dark adapted and really soak up the subtle detail.

I'm glad you are enjoying your Tak Nicola. I've enjoyed my FC100 since I bought it in 2016 When I use my refractors (I have 4 between 100mm and 130mm in aperture) I enjoy the feeling that the vie

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12 minutes ago, Commanderfish said:

So I don't think I will ever change the focuser in the FC-76, but at some point in the future I might consider changing the pinion or the focuser on the FC-100. This would be a luxury rather than a necessity, the stock focusers are good.

I would agree that the stock focusers on both mine are very good and I don’t think it’s in any way essential to change them 👍

I do like fine focusers though, so have replaced that on my FC-76DCU with the FeatherTouch Pinion, which works well indeed and super smooth. It is relatively expensive though but does retain the Takahashi look.

You may consider going all the way to the full FeatherTouch focuser.... once your wallet stops weeping 🤣

I’ve also added the More Blue fine focuser to my FS-60CB, which also works well, is a little bit stiffer to operate, but still very smooth. The only minor issue is that it does stick out quite a bit from the side, but I guess on the (wider) FC-100, that would be less of an issue 🤔

 

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33 minutes ago, HollyHound said:

I would agree that the stock focusers on both mine are very good and I don’t think it’s in any way essential to change them 👍

I do like fine focusers though, so have replaced that on my FC-76DCU with the FeatherTouch Pinion, which works well indeed and super smooth. It is relatively expensive though but does retain the Takahashi look.

You may consider going all the way to the full FeatherTouch focuser.... once your wallet stops weeping 🤣

I’ve also added the More Blue fine focuser to my FS-60CB, which also works well, is a little bit stiffer to operate, but still very smooth. The only minor issue is that it does stick out quite a bit from the side, but I guess on the (wider) FC-100, that would be less of an issue 🤔

 

543EFF4B-4B08-4E2E-A495-897B9E9D4CC0.jpeg

5AC5307F-A1A1-42ED-A97A-9C2FE6158290.jpeg

That Feathertouch pinion looks particularly good but the price is pretty eye watering at £370. Better than a whole new focuser and adapter at about £615 though!

The price of the More Blue is very attractive by comparison although it's not quite as attractive as a finished look... Makes sense for the FS60 though.

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24 minutes ago, Commanderfish said:

Makes sense for the FS60 though.

Yes, it’s a good (and cheaper option). The FS-60CB does benefit even more from a fine focuser, as it has a very shallow “snap” focus point and shows some CA if not precisely on that 👍

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On 18/04/2021 at 08:02, mikeDnight said:

Honestly, the DC is a jewel,  just keep your 2" visual back as short as possible as the DC focuser is a bit tight on inward travel. Having said that, I rarely had any problems reaching focus with mine, but I used only 1.25" eyepieces with the Tak prism, which has a very short light path.

@mikeDnight, I think you may have discussed this elsewhere before, but can’t locate the thread...

As previous owner of an FC-100DC (and binoviewer observer), were you able to get it to focus with binoviewers and 1.25” prism, natively on this scope, or did you end up removing the small extension attached to the focuser to achieve this ?

The FC-76DCU doesn’t have a removable section and remains a lovely lightweight grab and go scope, so thinking specifically of an FC-100DC to replace my Mak 127, which is my lunar binoviewing scope currently... it’s lovely but takes a while to cool down before it’s sharp and usable. These doublet refractors, seem to be fully usable almost immediately 👍

Thanks

Gary

 

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27 minutes ago, HollyHound said:

@mikeDnight, I think you may have discussed this elsewhere before, but can’t locate the thread...

As previous owner of an FC-100DC (and binoviewer observer), were you able to get it to focus with binoviewers and 1.25” prism, natively on this scope, or did you end up removing the small extension attached to the focuser to achieve this ?

The FC-76DCU doesn’t have a removable section and remains a lovely lightweight grab and go scope, so thinking specifically of an FC-100DC to replace my Mak 127, which is my lunar binoviewing scope currently... it’s lovely but takes a while to cool down before it’s sharp and usable. These doublet refractors, seem to be fully usable almost immediately 👍

Thanks

Gary

 

Hi Gary,

  My DC didn't come to focus with my binoviewer unless I used a barlow, gpc, or an extender-Q. I used a Takahashi prism diagonal, which has a short light path, but to reach focus without using a barlow, I had to remove the short tube between the telescope and focuser. That though meant I had to use extension tubes to make up the distance for when I did use a barlow with my binoviewer. My DZ, and presumably the DF too, does come to focus with the Tak prism but not with the Baader BBHS prism, when I use my 35mm Eudiascopic/Ultima pair. It's just the curse of owning a Tak scope I suppose!  I think the Mak 127 is a really great scope, but I don't believe you'll regret replacing it with a FC100DC. It's rare that I have to wait more than a few minutes for the FC to cool but I think that's one of the benefits of refractors in general. Anyhow, I'm pretty certain you'll be elated once you have an FC100DC in your hands. ☺

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6 minutes ago, mikeDnight said:

Hi Gary,

  ........It's just the curse of owning a Tak scope I suppose.........

Well, I'm astonished, I never thought I'd hear a signed up Takofile like yourself say such a thing Mike.  The Tak thought police will be after you!  🙂.

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20 minutes ago, mikeDnight said:

Hi Gary,

  My DC didn't come to focus with my binoviewer unless I used a barlow, gpc, or an extender-Q. I used a Takahashi prism diagonal, which has a short light path, but to reach focus without using a barlow, I had to remove the short tube between the telescope and focuser. That though meant I had to use extension tubes to make up the distance for when I did use a barlow with my binoviewer. My DZ, and presumably the DF too, does come to focus with the Tak prism but not with the Baader BBHS prism, when I use my 35mm Eudiascopic/Ultima pair. It's just the curse of owning a Tak scope I suppose!  I think the Mak 127 is a really great scope, but I don't believe you'll regret replacing it with a FC100DC. It's rare that I have to wait more than a few minutes for the FC to cool but I think that's one of the benefits of refractors in general. Anyhow, I'm pretty certain you'll be elated once you have an FC100DC in your hands. ☺

Hi Mike,

That’s really great to know thank you. I had a feeling I’d read somewhere that removing that section would allow binoviewers to work and I have a short light path Baader 1.25” T2 prism for that purpose. Am thinking of adding the BBHS T2 prism diagonal as well, but not for binoviewing, as I’ve been very impressed with the mirror version but want to reserve that for wide field views. I’ve got them setup right now with appropriate T2 extensions so I can swap them between the FS-60CB and FC-76DCU easily (both have 2” ClickLock on the OTAs).

I do love my Mak 127 and the StellaMira 80 f/10 last night on the moon (which has been my favourite object to observe for a while now). Also had the FC76 nearby and to be honest, the view from that beat the StellaMira slightly (including a few double stars) and was really only slightly less detailed than the Mak 127. It also reminded me of the hassle setting up the AZ100 and two scopes, then having to wait for the Mak to cool 😬

I’m really starting to move towards a preference for refractors now, with the big dob for DSO sessions and I think my Mak127, C5 and (possibly) the CC6” might be moving on, in favour of the Taks... no rush, I have time to find out what works best🤔

The FC-100DC would easily fulfil the role of the Mak127 (and C5) and possibly come close to the CC6” as well (that is a big old heavy thing!).

But yes, the day of owning an FC-100DC is not that far off, and knowing I can binoview with it, is very useful 👍

Thanks

Gary

Edited by HollyHound
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7 minutes ago, paulastro said:

Well, I'm astonished, I never thought I'd hear a signed up Takofile like yourself say such a thing Mike.  The Tak thought police will be after you!  🙂.

Well they certainly do need their adaptors... I have a small box of them already now 🤣

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4 hours ago, HollyHound said:

@mikeDnight, I think you may have discussed this elsewhere before, but can’t locate the thread...

As previous owner of an FC-100DC (and binoviewer observer), were you able to get it to focus with binoviewers and 1.25” prism, natively on this scope, or did you end up removing the small extension attached to the focuser to achieve this ?

The FC-76DCU doesn’t have a removable section and remains a lovely lightweight grab and go scope, so thinking specifically of an FC-100DC to replace my Mak 127, which is my lunar binoviewing scope currently... it’s lovely but takes a while to cool down before it’s sharp and usable. These doublet refractors, seem to be fully usable almost immediately 👍

Thanks

Gary

 

FC 100 DC is lovely. And then this appears today: https://ensoptical.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=10610

🤔

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10 minutes ago, John said:

The FS 128 he has on UK AB&S is not too shabby either. Where he gets his stuff, goodness only knows :rolleyes2:

Was thinking same, John. Sounds like somebody had a stash of largely unused Taks.

That TSA 102 looks very tasty indeed. But I don’t really need a third Tak ~100 🤣

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9 minutes ago, JeremyS said:

Was thinking same, John. Sounds like somebody had a stash of largely unused Taks.

That TSA 102 looks very tasty indeed. But I don’t really need a third Tak ~100 🤣

It does indeed look very good and seems to have the edge for imaging as well as superb for visual, according to reviews, but it’s also heavier and takes longer to cool than the FC-100DC.

Besides, like you, I (currently) don’t need another 100mm Tak... as of this morning 😬🤣

Edited by HollyHound
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20 minutes ago, John said:

The FS 128 he has on UK AB&S is not too shabby either. Where he gets his stuff, goodness only knows :rolleyes2:

I really wish you hadn’t pointed that out! 😱😱

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1 minute ago, HollyHound said:

It does indeed look very good and seems to have the edge for imaging as well as superb for visual, according to reviews, but it’s also heavier and takes longer to cool than the FC-100DC.

Besides, like you, I (currently) don’t need another 100mm Tak, as of this morning 😬🤣

What???? Excellent news. Did I miss the unboxing pics?

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4 minutes ago, JeremyS said:

What???? Excellent news. Did I miss the unboxing pics?

Not yet, I ordered the FC-100DC this morning and @FLO will deliver on Monday 😀

It does mean, that I now need to consider the future of my Mak, CC6”, C5 and (possibly) the StellaMira... I likely don’t need to have all these scopes now as I anticipate they’ll be used less than before... I’m sold on refractors (particularly these fluorite ones) 🤔

Edited by HollyHound
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3 minutes ago, HollyHound said:

Not yet, I ordered the FC-100DC this morning and @FLO will deliver on Monday 😀

It does mean, that I now need to consider the future of my Mak, CC6”, C5 and (possibly) the StellaMira... I likely don’t need to have all these scopes now as I anticipate they’ll be used less than before... I’m sold on refractors (particularly these fluorite ones) 🤔

Well, with the FC 76 DCU and FC 100 DC you’ve got most things covered. 

At least until the TSA 120 comes along 🤣

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5 minutes ago, JeremyS said:

Well, with the FC 76 DCU and FC 100 DC you’ve got most things covered. 

At least until the TSA 120 comes along 🤣

Don’t forget the FS-60CB, which I adore as a complementary scope for wide field views on the AZ100, but will also be going on trips where I need to pack super light 👍

These will be more than enough for a good while yet 🤣

Edited by HollyHound
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On 20/04/2021 at 15:36, Commanderfish said:

I've already removed the light blue tube section from in front of the focuser and installed a Baader clicklock.

I’m attempting to do the same thing, as I’d like to use extensions, camera rotator and T2 adaptor to allow me to use mine for binoviewing.

However, the blue extension ahead of the focuser seems remarkably right and no amount of turning can separate it from that silver ring that attaches it to the main OTA. I can remove the focuser easily enough, but not that bit 😬

Do I just need to be more forceful, or are these glued in anyway... I guess not, as yours came off and it looks like it’s just screwed in, but maybe it is just really tight🤔

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4 hours ago, HollyHound said:

I’m attempting to do the same thing, as I’d like to use extensions, camera rotator and T2 adaptor to allow me to use mine for binoviewing.

However, the blue extension ahead of the focuser seems remarkably right and no amount of turning can separate it from that silver ring that attaches it to the main OTA. I can remove the focuser easily enough, but not that bit 😬

Do I just need to be more forceful, or are these glued in anyway... I guess not, as yours came off and it looks like it’s just screwed in, but maybe it is just really tight🤔

On the FC100 it's just screwed on tight. A firm grip will unscrew each section.

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32 minutes ago, Commanderfish said:

On the FC100 it's just screwed on tight. A firm grip will unscrew each section.


Thanks. It is indeed. I easily unscrewed the focuser itself from that extension tube and the extension tube plus silver ring from the OTA, but when I tried unscrewing the extension tube from that ring, it just wouldn’t budge.

I’ll try again tomorrow, didn’t want to force it before checking that I wasn’t missing something (e.g. it’s glued or there’s a locking screw etc), so good to know it’s just really tight 👍

As it happens, I was able to test some eyepieces last night on the moon and also able to use my binoviewers anyway, using the Hyperion Zoom Barlow (2.25), which came into focus and had 25mm of inward focus travel left.

However, I have a camera rotator and T2 adaptor which I want to use and have worked out that I can use those in combination with the supplied adaptor extension in the same configuration or remove completely and use the binoviewers natively (no Barlow). It also provides flexibility to use the 1.04x field flattener I have too for some imaging.

There is also a weight and storage/travel advantage losing that extension tube 👍

Edited by HollyHound
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Just double checked and it definitely is just a matter of unscrewing, just needs sufficient grip, which is easier with the silver ring still screwed on to the OTA. There are definite advantages to shortening the OTA by removing the blue extension tube!

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On 07/04/2021 at 21:47, JeremyS said:

Indeed, Nicola. This one is worth having as the real version. I have 3 😊

image.thumb.jpg.84a92277e65b31621fd1fba621f66745.jpg

@JeremyS I managed to get a first edition of the version you have on the right. Mine is from Harper & Row, first edition, 1965. It’s in amazing condition and looks like it was never read. However, the middle copy looks like the library book I’m reading. Published by McMillan, is that the second edition? 

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4 minutes ago, Nicola Fletcher said:

@JeremyS I managed to get a first edition of the version you have on the right. Mine is from Harper & Row, first edition, 1965. It’s in amazing condition and looks like it was never read. However, the middle copy looks like the library book I’m reading. Published by McMillan, is that the second edition? 

Mine is first UK edition (was published in USA first)

image.thumb.jpg.a8f8e69b09dc52bac1d25b49770d9f76.jpg

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