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- Nikon D3300
- Celestron Astromaster 130EQ
- T-ring + Barlow x2
I will explain this as briefly as possible.
Because I cannot photograph in direct focus with my telescope and camera, I have to use the x2. when there is a full moon, it does not enter the frame, it comes out around the edges, so I think I should make a mosaic.
The problem is that I do not have a motorized mount, so anileation is critical.
The problem with PIPP is that it does not correct the rotation of the moon, so it does not work for me.
I aligned the photos in Photoshop, and exported them in tiff.
I then moved them to Autostakkert! 3 and it stacked without any problem. Use 40% of the best frames.
Finally, I use RegiStax6, and when using the waveletes, as seen in the image, it generates an incredibly loud noise. I don't understand what I'm doing wrong, is it RegiStax, is it AS! 3 or is it Photoshop.
(Errors are clearly seen in the lower part of the product because I do not have a mount, but it has happened to me in other images and the same does not happen with the noise.)
I do not understand and I am desperate as it is horrible not being able to photograph a full moon decently.
I urgently need someone to help me. I put all the general details for you to understand, if you need to know more, please let me know. a greeting.
(below demonstrative image)
I tried imaging M101 here in our Bortle 5 neighborhood and it was sort of tough due to the light pollution but I think I was able to pull off a bit of data. My problem now is that I was able to increase the visibility of the galaxy through stretching but in the process the background noise also increased. I also noticed that my galaxy and stars are a bit orange/reddish compared to the other M101 shots which are kinda bluish in color. Not sure if this is being caused by my astromodded camera but I tried correcting it via Photoshop and this is the best "white balanced" image that I got.
Looking for some help in this group maybe someone can have a go with my raw file and share some techniques on how to improve my post processing. The stacking was done via DSS and the processing via Photoshop. I also used Gradient Xterminator and also Astrotools.
Here's my edit and I also attached the raw file so maybe you guys can try tinkering with it also. Also open for any suggestions or comments with my initial edit. Thanks! 😁
Light Frames: 189 x 1 min shots @ ISO1600 (yes I still don't have autoguiding) Dark Frames: 198 x 1 min shots Mount: Celestron OmniXLT CG-4 Telescope: Celestron C6N Camera: Canon EOS Rebel XT Hap-Griffin Mod Autosave.tif
Hey everyone. Have previously stumbled across this forum when searching for answers to questions, have finally made an account.
Last night I shot the moon for a couple of hours. I took around 10x3 minute videos and captured a little over 80,000 frames. My aim was to then create a lunar mosaic image but I have never done this before, and my technical ability seems to be adding to the confusion.
So to give some context, I used an ASI120MCS planetary camera through an 8" Skywatcher Skyliner 200p dobsonian.
I have read that ideally you would use a tracking mount to record sections of the moon at a time, however I sadly don't have that luxury.
I instead let the moon drift across the field of view and I'm pretty confident that among the 80,000 frames I have all the pieces of the moon as a whole.
What I'm now having issues with is how to break down these Avi files into frames which then can be used to create a mosaic. I need a "for dummies" guide ae thats what I'm feeling like currently.
Thank you in advance for any assistance you may be able to provide. :)
Looks like I will get some favourable weather in the coming days, but the moon is out and full. I finally have a car so I can get away from light polluted Weymouth, and tonight I took a drive and found a great spot to shoot (see image).
So to the point, I want to shoot Andromeda during these moonlit nights since the moon will be directly behind me. How much will it still affect my images?
I'm still a beginner, using a Nikon Z50 and the 50-250mm kit lens @250 (F6.3), but I do have a Star Adventurer now, so I'll go out and shoot if nothing for the practice (my polar alignments have been pretty good).