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QHY268M Unboxing & Test Run


SyedT

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I've been impatiently awaiting the QHY268M's release, and finally received it today alongside the QHYCFW3 thanks to Bernard at Modern Astronomy. Below are images of the unboxing with the various components:

20210201_154122.thumb.jpg.42afd1ff6ad49f778b6cf45d657994c0.jpg

20210201_154148.thumb.jpg.48eff097a7f7f75b6cb319e595354eae.jpg

20210201_154230.thumb.jpg.8677562db8286f0e408f87b7e9d55b4e.jpg

20210201_154308.thumb.jpg.91665d2cf142caf557fb589262d70e98.jpg

20210201_154633.thumb.jpg.bd04bf324f92905417f37d594183fc49.jpg

20210201_154842.thumb.jpg.69ef9534e60ae1b5f519c268fabb222c.jpg

20210201_154921.thumb.jpg.a2cc9d62f9ce828f737ab90d31e49543.jpg

20210201_155042.thumb.jpg.27e95522a3791dc458d348573f68aa6d.jpg

Straight off the bat, what hit me was the quality of the packaging and how neatly everything was arranged. I know we're paying a premium for these cameras so it's to be expected, but still a nice thing to see. They've included an AC to DC adapter, alongside plenty of spacers to get you going, and a desiccant hub with desiccant balls. The camera itself is very chunky (as expected), and has a really nice weight and premium feel to it. There is a USB 3.0 connector and a 4-pin connector for the QHYCFW series, alongside a 11-13V DC input socket. I would want to make a comment at this point regarding QHY not taking the initiative to add in a USB hub, as that would be really useful; not sure why that's not the case as of yet. 

I'm using the 268M with the CFW3, 36 mm Chroma filters, Takahashi FSQ85-EDX and the Takahashi 1.01x EDP Flattener.

20210201_154812.thumb.jpg.d9ff24c738b78c1221dcb3967cd266eb.jpg

I've also attached some images of the QHYCFW3, because why not. The great thing about the 268M is that they've engineered it so that it now has 5 mm less backfocus distance, i.e. 12.5 mm vs 17.5 mm before. As can be seen below, the CFW3 can be bolted directly to the 268M, which results in a total backfocus of 30 mm. I was concerned about backfocus initially as I use a reducer in my train, but this step from QHY meant that I had 5 mm remaining once everything was accounted for. Again, the CFW3 comes with plenty of extras, including thumbscrews if you fancy using the dovetail plate instead of directly bolting it, required cables and lots of extra screws and washers to fix the filters to the carousel (I think I had about 15 washers left over once I was done). So far it's operating flawlessly via the 4-pin connector.

20210201_155128.thumb.jpg.165c82e41988dc6f714e785c3f960475.jpg

20210201_155203.thumb.jpg.c910d24c99390466acfefc1ab04e1eeb.jpg

20210201_163513.thumb.jpg.fca643a3632ebc1309375e0b54de2885.jpg20210201_164427.thumb.jpg.384c9e6a95b93bbc28fa96e3e3bd93ad.jpg

I got lucky tonight with a short window of clear skies, and got a couple of images. Initial results look very promising, although I can see some definite light fall-off which is to be expected with 36 mm filters. I've left everything at default settings, and am using the DSO option within the 268M's driver settings as below. The TEC is running at 12% power to maintain a temperature of -10, and about 35% for a temperature of -20. Ambient temperature tonight is 0 degrees. Below is a single sub of IC1805 of 300 seconds @ -10 degrees, with a FITS file size of 49.8 MB. I'm not sure how interpretable this is, as there were patches of cloud passing over whilst I was capturing it, and the scope was pointing towards a streetlamp (hence the right-sided glow). There are plenty of bad pixels present (less so at -20 as expected), which will hopefully calibrate out easily.

Untitled.thumb.png.e5dada91b2d238151354832590a300e9.png

739971591_IC1805IC1848Framing-2_Light_Ha_1x1_fpos_317852_2021-02-01_192137_-10C_300sec_frame2.thumb.png.3b8c353a403f9a858d07728550f00cd3.png

As it has now clouded over, I think I'll create a sequence of dark frames at various gain settings to run overnight. If nothing else, at least I managed to put everything together, get it all focused nicely and take a sub! Will update this thread as and when I get to test it more (although this whole week looks cloudy). Hopefully someone finds this rambling useful!

Cheers

Edited by SyedT
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  • SyedT changed the title to QHY268M Unboxing & Test Run
On 01/02/2021 at 21:28, SyedT said:

I've been impatiently awaiting the QHY268M's release, and finally received it today alongside the QHYCFW3 thanks to Bernard at Modern Astronomy. Below are images of the unboxing with the various components:

20210201_154122.thumb.jpg.42afd1ff6ad49f778b6cf45d657994c0.jpg

20210201_154148.thumb.jpg.48eff097a7f7f75b6cb319e595354eae.jpg

20210201_154230.thumb.jpg.8677562db8286f0e408f87b7e9d55b4e.jpg

20210201_154308.thumb.jpg.91665d2cf142caf557fb589262d70e98.jpg

20210201_154633.thumb.jpg.bd04bf324f92905417f37d594183fc49.jpg

20210201_154842.thumb.jpg.69ef9534e60ae1b5f519c268fabb222c.jpg

20210201_154921.thumb.jpg.a2cc9d62f9ce828f737ab90d31e49543.jpg

20210201_155042.thumb.jpg.27e95522a3791dc458d348573f68aa6d.jpg

Straight off the bat, what hit me was the quality of the packaging and how neatly everything was arranged. I know we're paying a premium for these cameras so it's to be expected, but still a nice thing to see. They've included an AC to DC adapter, alongside plenty of spacers to get you going, and a desiccant hub with desiccant balls. The camera itself is very chunky (as expected), and has a really nice weight and premium feel to it. There is a USB 3.0 connector and a 4-pin connector for the QHYCFW series, alongside a 11-13V DC input socket. I would want to make a comment at this point regarding QHY not taking the initiative to add in a USB hub, as that would be really useful; not sure why that's not the case as of yet. 

I'm using the 268M with the CFW3, 36 mm Chroma filters, Takahashi FSQ85-EDX and the Takahashi 1.01x EDP Flattener.

20210201_154812.thumb.jpg.d9ff24c738b78c1221dcb3967cd266eb.jpg

I've also attached some images of the QHYCFW3, because why not. The great thing about the 268M is that they've engineered it so that it now has 5 mm less backfocus distance, i.e. 12.5 mm vs 17.5 mm before. As can be seen below, the CFW3 can be bolted directly to the 268M, which results in a total backfocus of 30 mm. I was concerned about backfocus initially as I use a reducer in my train, but this step from QHY meant that I had 5 mm remaining once everything was accounted for. Again, the CFW3 comes with plenty of extras, including thumbscrews if you fancy using the dovetail plate instead of directly bolting it, required cables and lots of extra screws and washers to fix the filters to the carousel (I think I had about 15 washers left over once I was done). So far it's operating flawlessly via the 4-pin connector.

20210201_155128.thumb.jpg.165c82e41988dc6f714e785c3f960475.jpg

20210201_155203.thumb.jpg.c910d24c99390466acfefc1ab04e1eeb.jpg

20210201_163513.thumb.jpg.fca643a3632ebc1309375e0b54de2885.jpg20210201_164427.thumb.jpg.384c9e6a95b93bbc28fa96e3e3bd93ad.jpg

I got lucky tonight with a short window of clear skies, and got a couple of images. Initial results look very promising, although I can see some definite light fall-off which is to be expected with 36 mm filters. I've left everything at default settings, and am using the DSO option within the 268M's driver settings as below. The TEC is running at 12% power to maintain a temperature of -10, and about 35% for a temperature of -20. Ambient temperature tonight is 0 degrees. Below is a single sub of IC1805 of 300 seconds @ -10 degrees, with a FITS file size of 49.8 MB. I'm not sure how interpretable this is, as there were patches of cloud passing over whilst I was capturing it, and the scope was pointing towards a streetlamp (hence the right-sided glow). There are plenty of bad pixels present (less so at -20 as expected), which will hopefully calibrate out easily.

Untitled.thumb.png.e5dada91b2d238151354832590a300e9.png

739971591_IC1805IC1848Framing-2_Light_Ha_1x1_fpos_317852_2021-02-01_192137_-10C_300sec_frame2.thumb.png.3b8c353a403f9a858d07728550f00cd3.png

As it has now clouded over, I think I'll create a sequence of dark frames at various gain settings to run overnight. If nothing else, at least I managed to put everything together, get it all focused nicely and take a sub! Will update this thread as and when I get to test it more (although this whole week looks cloudy). Hopefully someone finds this rambling useful!

Cheers

Hi, thanks for sharing your unboxing. A question, which tube have you used? What is the focal relation f?

Thank you...

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First proper test run on Markarian's Chain. 

QHY268M with Chroma Luminance filter 36 mm + Takahashi FSQ85-EDX - 13*120s + 49*180s (total integration time 2h53min) @ binning 1x1  in High Gain Mode @ Gain 0 + Offset 30. Processed in APP:

Markarians_Chain-Luminance-session_1-lpc.thumb.png.5926a5cc040d1adce376fdee75ef6da9.png

Below is a raw vs calibrated sub (bias + flats + darks + bad pixel map):

Uncalibrated.png.1bc396e5140fa44abca090d1ff797d75.png            Calibrated.png.7da9321fb15abe6d4cd85d6c408b55c8.png

Bias frames seem to work very well, so no need for dark flats!

Edited by SyedT
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3 hours ago, Spongey said:

Fantastic! What bortle scale are you in?

Bortle 5 locally, but quite close to skyglow from a Bortle 6/7 city centre area which is where the Pleaides are now. The LP removal tool in AstroPixelProcessor helps a lot with tackling this, but invariably I do end up having annoying gradients!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thought I would try a lunar mineral composition. I have to say that being able to do this is a massive bonus. I know it won't be as good as e.g. a 290MM/MC, but considering that this is primarily a DSO camera, it's pretty good!

Taken at a resolution of approx. 1600x1200. 3,000 frames for each RGB channel, 50% selected in PIPP, then best 25% stacked. RGB channels aligned using PI's FFTRegistration script, RGB image created in PS followed by Curves and Saturation adjustments and blending in of an L layer with Luminosity blend at 50% opacity.

RGB_registax.thumb.png.b4b67546fd072601459f592d37a68ef2.png

Edited by SyedT
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  • 1 month later...

Update: My QHY268M's cooling board broke down randomly. Contacted QHY via Bernard at Modern Astronomy, and he did a wonderful job of securing a new camera for me as it's still well within warranty.

As it's now galaxy season, I've hooked up the 268M to my Edge HD 8. I initially thought of using it with the 0.7x reducer, but it wasn't quite compatible with my setup in terms of significant vignetting and oddly shaped stars (likely due to tilt caused by the extra length that comes with the reducer). I was also having a nightmare with collimation with the reducer, not so much now. Stars aren't perfect, but I'm not messing with collimation any further for now. Minimal vignetting compared to the reducer. I'm imaging at f/10 so still binning 2x2, and I do like the results so far as I'm able to get that extra reach (albeit at the expense of longer imaging time + the requirement for reasonable guiding performance).

Single uncalibrated 60s sub, Gain 56 & Offset 10 (yes I know the sensor needs a quick puff of air!). Single sub time was short due to a nearly full moon:

1.thumb.png.d2da63f50543f03541032d866c554722.png

Calibrated (flats + bias, no darks):

2.thumb.png.e229b9b582eefaaf67b262c551e305e9.png

Integration of 43x60s subs:

3.thumb.png.da1591145fecb2fe47375381a7a66d31.png

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