IC 1499 - California Nebula
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By Pincs
Hi I've got an 8" dobsonian and I just got a dslr to connect to it. Obviously there's no tracking so what kind of things can I capture. Will I be able to do dso and planets?
Thanks
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By sulaco
Hi,
Thinking of getting the Asiair pro whenever they come back into stock but wondered about the voltage output for dslr, it states that it’s12v but would that not need to be stepped down to 7.5v for dslr.
im wondering if the Pegasus power box micro with Stellarmate might be a better option as the dedicated power box is controllable.
I tried Ekos a couple of years back and had nothing but problems but tried again last night and was amazed at how slick it was, best guiding and first time plate-solvingwas effortless.
I have the original zwo 120mm so reluctant to get a new one unless I have too. Has anybody been using the new advanced or micro power boxes either stellarmate?
Thanks
Campbell
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By MarsG76
The Witch Head Nebula, aka IC2118 & NGC1909 in the constellation Orion, near the star Rigel.
This object is very large in the sky, being 3°×1°, so I had to use my smallest telescope to deliver the wide angle and low power needed to image all of the "Witches" profile.
This is a very difficult object to image using a DSLR, and a dark sky is needed to capture it in it's full glory. I thought that I'd give it a go with my DSLR, and see what I end up with... I'm happy that the end result in my image shows the shape of the "Witch Head" but I think that the overall image will not be winning any awards.
This image has been exposed through a 80mm refractor @ 500mm FL, using my cooled and full spectrum modded DSLR for a total exposure time of 12 hours and 34 minutes, in a semi-rural, Bortle 5 (maybe 4) sky.
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By MarsG76
I managed to bag another object, this time the reflection Nebula M78 in the constellation Orion.
I was planning to capture natural color subs than add some HAlpha and OIII narrowband data to emphesize the image details and reveal deeper matter, but after processing the OSC/RGB subs, I decided that adding the narrowband data is not necessary.
This image was taken across two nights (juggling clouds), 6th and 11th February, and I managed to capture 3 hours and 18 minutes worth of useful subs (21x60 sec, 19x120 sec, 18x180 and 17 x 300 second subs).
The telescope used was a 80mm refractor, at 500mm FL using my full spectrum modded and cooled 40D DSLR.
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By Pincs
Hi, I just got a canon eos 600d to take pictures with my skywatcher 200p scope. I am using prime focus with it which seems to work fine despite the problems people face with getting it to focus. I plan to get some great shots of the moon, planets and orion nebula but I was wondering if theres a way I can get shots of dimmer objects in the sky. At the moment i am finding this hard as I am limited to a 1.5 second shutter speed in order to prevent star trails, I am putting the ISO up high to get the most light but I was wondering if there were better ways to go about getting the best pictures without a tracking mount. Thanks.
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