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Looking clear so I have been preparing my galaxy target list. I have been doing this for a while so these galaxies are typically mag 13/14 with a relatively high surface brightness in the plough.
They have been selected using the skytools software. I have preflagged those galaxies that look possible with my 20 inch dob in mag 5 skies. Normally I have a 90% success rate with this method.
I pick those to the N to NE which is darker for me as this is towards the Cotswolds.
I have printed off charts to aid with star hoping. I use a RACI finder, then a 16mm eyepiece to locate the field and then a 10mm eyepiece to spot the galaxy. I might get through 7/8 galaxies in a session.
So the list:
For the finale I will try the NGC3561/ARP105/NGC3554/NGC3552/NGC3550 group to see how many I can pick out.
Now I just need the sky to stay clear.
If you fancy observing any of these tonight we can compare notes.
I've just had a Canon EOS 250d modified by Juan, IR filter off and shim to restore focal plane. He previously did the same for a 100d which got me going in the hobby. Juan is willing and able to take on successive generations of camera. I prefer to rely on Juan's experience for this task, despite me being an optics specialist professionally. The cost of the camera and Juan's conversion service together are a bargain and I trust him with a new camera.
I like to use this type of imager over the specialist cameras because they are the result of Canon's massive R&D capability and bundle together all these functions: battery, an up to date sensor chip, the on-board software, on-board storage, built-in display, easy-fit Astronomik filter. In the case of the 250d, that very important tiltable display so you don't have to crawl around on the wet lawn to see it. The only thing they don't have is an easily-implemented thermo-electric cooling. But I've got a long way to go in astro-imaging before I care about noise that much (though I'd like to cool, and understand what can be achieved, I use stacking averaging in the meantime to go part way in that respect).
The dslr is my one imager for three rigs, the most notable being that it's lightweight enough to go on my Omegon clockwork mount.
On my heftier rig, I do have an Altair camera with a Sony back-lit chip but only use it for tracking with a wireless-controlled Stellarmate setup, having got fed up with all the cables and tablet pc with memory dangling off it.
I recently purchased my first telescope and camera, and now I want to make sure I have the correct Barlow or reducer to couple them together to achieve Nyquist sampling on the camera (or slight over-sampling). In case it’s important, I’m interested in planetary imaging—in theory that shouldn’t matter for this sampling question, but maybe there are other considerations to take into account.
I used this calculator (https://astronomy.tools/calculators/ccd_suitability) and plugged in my info:
Telescope: Celestron 8 SE
Camera: ZWO ASI462MC
Seeing: experimented with this one, but would like to get optics that allow for poor or very poor
Binning: prefer 1x1 to preserve spatial resolution, but could consider higher if SNR is a problem
I’ve seen on several forum posts that people often use a 2x Barlow to couple the two. However, according to this calculator, that will always lead to over-sampling. If anything, it says I should use no intermediate optics or even a reducer.
So my questions are:
Binning: Will I be able to see anything with 1x1 binning, or should I expect to need to bin to collect enough light?
Is there some other consideration that’s more important here than achieving correct sampling? It seems like most others are over-sampling, and perhaps there’s a good reason for this. If so, is there another formula that would let me determine the appropriate optics to buy?
Thanks in advance for any help!
I am pretty new to this forum. Well, have been following it for quite a while but this is the first time I am writing something.
I am selling my ASI 1600MM Pro that I bought from FLO on February 2020. It has been a great camera, and even with my Celestron NexStar 8SE scope and Bortle Class 8, it gave me great results. It doesn't have any mechanical or other problem, the reason I am selling this is to move to a new camera
Let me know if you are interested in.
The price I have in my mind is £1000.
Here are some pictures I took with this camera ;
I currently have a Canon T6 with a Opteka 500mm f8 lens ($87) that I use for lunar and solar photography. I recently purchased a full frame Canon EOS R and am thinking about getting a 800mm f11 Canon RF lens ($899). Will the quality on the new canon lens be significantly better than my Opteka lens? Is it worth the upgrade? Also, should I use my new full frame or my crop sensor (1.6 factor) to shoot? I want to get the best quality possible.