Jump to content

30 secs banner.jpg

Which lens to use for total solar eclipse?

Recommended Posts

I currently have a Canon T6 with a Opteka 500mm f8 lens ($87) that I use for lunar and solar photography. I recently purchased a full frame Canon EOS R and am thinking about getting a 800mm f11 Canon RF lens ($899). Will the quality on the new canon lens be significantly better than my Opteka lens? Is it worth the upgrade? Also, should I use my new full frame or my crop sensor (1.6 factor) to shoot? I want to get the best quality possible. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well hello. Some profile picture, sir! I haven’t got a clue about any reply to your question (visual only).

But welcome and I hope you have a lot of fun getting the answers you need. 🙂

(And you’ll probably need to change your clothes!)

Edited by Floater
Link to post
Share on other sites

realistically you are going to need more than a canon 800mm lens.


IR/UV cut filter on the objective is a must.


2x teleconverter is a must.


Name on the lens doesnt mean much, and picture quality is never ever ever reflected by price in the camera industry.       How well does  your camera focus on the moon?   That is kind of more important than the canon lens.    


So to answer your question.

The canon lens is only 400mm better.     So this factor alone makes it.    



If you want to capture magnetic field lines you are going to need something with great fine focus.


What part of the eclipse is your main goal?  That is also important because it does take along  waiting for maximum darkening.   That totality is where everyone gets confused too, suddenly you forgot to adjust a setting.   (alot of people use two cameras because of this)



Dont forget you need a neutral density,  probably nd500 minimum


Edited by Kitsunegari
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 18/11/2020 at 19:38, billyb93 said:

Will the quality on the new canon lens be significantly better than my Opteka lens?

The Canon RF lens would be great with the full frame sensor, it would give better contrast than the mirror lens and would be much easier to focus precisely.

However, I used a 500mm F8 mirror lens with a Canon 450D at the 2008 eclipse in China and managed to get some fairly decent images. 

It all depends on whether you have a spare $900 to spend 😄





Edited by Debo
  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Quetzalcoatl72
      Using Sharpcap to record the sun ready for the eclipse as a first timer. I did a 3 minute avi clip, and a snapshot, both show that the image is 'pixelly' when you zoom in, like checkerboard patterns. I have included a picture and the Sharpcap settings file. I couldn't get Nina to get the right settings so i used this program instead. If anyone could help solve this problem before the eclipse that would be great Thanks, if not then i will know for next time whenever that may be.

    • By Puffafish
      Over the winter I got into playing with a phone mount on my telescope eyepiece and got some pictures of the moon... But not much else as there are always limitations on what a phone camera can do (and how well I can align the camera to the eyepiece).
      If I was to upgrade to a camera to mount onto my scope, what should I be looking for? I have been tempted to give it a go with whatever I can find on ebay or similar, but don't want to buy something only to discover that it's lacking something important. The only thing I know to look for at the moment is to make sure there is a suitable mounting ring for the camera (a T ring I believe they're called).
      My targets will probably be: Orion nebular, Jupiter and Saturn to start with. This is purely because these are targets I know I can find.
      Scope: Skywatcher Explorer 130P (650mm focal length, 130mm diameter)
    • By wavydavy
      For sale 450D camera modified for astronomy, the IR filter has been removed to allow the important red emission nebula to come through. The price is £140.
      This camera has a very low shutter count of 1588, in very good condition, comes with 1 battery and charger (connects via USB to computer or smart phone socket ect ), I don't have the original box, but will pack, very well. The price includes special delivery. This is for the camera body, no lens. Any questions please email me any questions......clear skys.

    • By SuburbanMak
      I almost hesitate to ask this but ahem, here goes... 
      My EBay white light filter turned up today & I scurried out into the garden like an excited child on Christmas morning. 
      After a bit of faffing I have it clamped to the ST80 and using the equally cheap but pleasingly effective SV-Bony pinhole projector finder (can’t believe it just slotted in and is aligned as there’s no way to adjust) there is a lovely big, crisp, solar disc. 
      Can’t see any sunspots though - and here’s the dumb question - is there just nothing doing today or am I missing a trick? 
      Any beginner tips on white light observation gratefully received...

    • By StarPrincess
      Sun on March 20, 2021 with Astrodinsk <3
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.