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New skywatcher 130p-ds - camera and tips


Kiwi_Brad

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I have been reading this site for a while and playing around with Astro for about a year. I have a mount and guide set up and taken some okay photos. Nothing like on here but I’m happy so far where I was using a cheap refractor the SV48. 
 

I have a Skywatcher 130p-ds on the way from FLO all the way to NZ.  I currently use a DSLR with a full modification a Nikon D5600. Modified myself and seems to work well it’s very sensitive.  I’m considering upgrading my camera. Are their any recommendations for a camera upgrade. At this stage only wanting to stay with colour if I can. I have all 2” filters an HA and astromania light pollution. 
 

Can someone tell me a good lower end OSC for this reflector (I see some much about resolution vs pixel size. Maybe my Nikon is just fine? 
 

Finally any tips and tricks moving from the cheap refractor to the reflector. I don’t have a coma corrector at this point (so dam pricey) but feel free to recommend a good pair.  I will also play around with a 2x 2” ED Barlow as I like galaxies. 
 

Thanks for the knowledge and wisdom already shared.  Very low res image attached of the southern pinwheel galaxy. Terrible CA (I think). Cheap refractor remember. 

1FD04BC8-66E0-431A-ADD1-9C7EDAED3569.jpeg

Edited by Kiwi_Brad
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Hi Brad- and welcome to the 130pds club. One of my principles for progressing in imaging has been to only change one thing at a time, so I'd definitely get used to the new scope before you start looking at a new camera.

I know you found the coma corrector expensive, but you'll definitely want one- the coma is pretty bad on an f5 scope. Either the SW 0.9x or the Baader can work well (but you'll probably need to modify the draw tube). I would start there before moving to a new camera.

It's all a bit of a faf to start with, but I'm sure once you get everything set up you'll be very pleased with the scope- it's very capable.

Edited by Whistlin Bob
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5 hours ago, Whistlin Bob said:

coma corrector expensive, but you'll definitely want one

+1.

Get a cc and stick with your DSLR. If you feel that ccs are expensive, then you'd need to spend $silly to get a dedicated camera anywhere near the size of your Nikon.

If you're ok with IT stuff, you could also see how you got on with correction in software before you made a purchase.

Meanwhile, you could try an uv-ir cut filter on your refractor.

Just our €0.02 but HTH.

Edited by alacant
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On 10/11/2020 at 20:29, Whistlin Bob said:

Hi Brad- and welcome to the 130pds club. One of my principles for progressing in imaging has been to only change one thing at a time, so I'd definitely get used to the new scope before you start looking at a new camera.

I know you found the coma corrector expensive, but you'll definitely want one- the coma is pretty bad on an f5 scope. Either the SW 0.9x or the Baader can work well (but you'll probably need to modify the draw tube). I would start there before moving to a new camera.

It's all a bit of a faf to start with, but I'm sure once you get everything set up you'll be very pleased with the scope- it's very capable.

Thanks for the advice which version of the Baader coma corrector are you referring. Although nothing seems to be in stock at the moment.  I currently use all 2” equipment. 

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59 minutes ago, Kiwi_Brad said:

which version of the Baader coma corrector are you referring.

I use the Skywatcher 0.9x coma corrector, but I have a friend who uses the Baader mpcc mk 3. Both seem to work well.

The one irritation is that to achieve focus you end up with the drawtube protruding into the OTA which causes Pacman shaped stars. This is really annoying, given that the CC and the OTA are meant to be designed for one another- it's fairly easily fixed though, by removing around 10mm from the bottom of the focuser tube. 

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4 hours ago, Whistlin Bob said:

I use the Skywatcher 0.9x coma corrector, but I have a friend who uses the Baader mpcc mk 3. Both seem to work well.

The one irritation is that to achieve focus you end up with the drawtube protruding into the OTA which causes Pacman shaped stars. This is really annoying, given that the CC and the OTA are meant to be designed for one another- it's fairly easily fixed though, by removing around 10mm from the bottom of the focuser tube. 

Great thanks. I’ll get the OTA and have a play around with it all then grab a CC. See what the colour and clarity are like through this new set up. 
Cheers

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