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Over the winter I got into playing with a phone mount on my telescope eyepiece and got some pictures of the moon... But not much else as there are always limitations on what a phone camera can do (and how well I can align the camera to the eyepiece).
If I was to upgrade to a camera to mount onto my scope, what should I be looking for? I have been tempted to give it a go with whatever I can find on ebay or similar, but don't want to buy something only to discover that it's lacking something important. The only thing I know to look for at the moment is to make sure there is a suitable mounting ring for the camera (a T ring I believe they're called).
My targets will probably be: Orion nebular, Jupiter and Saturn to start with. This is purely because these are targets I know I can find.
Scope: Skywatcher Explorer 130P (650mm focal length, 130mm diameter)
For sale 450D camera modified for astronomy, the IR filter has been removed to allow the important red emission nebula to come through. The price is £140.
This camera has a very low shutter count of 1588, in very good condition, comes with 1 battery and charger (connects via USB to computer or smart phone socket ect ), I don't have the original box, but will pack, very well. The price includes special delivery. This is for the camera body, no lens. Any questions please email me any questions......clear skys.
I have a C5 sct a ED80 and a RCT 8" f/8, I also use a canon 600da and a asi120 as a guide scope and I wish to photograph as many objects in the sky as my setup would allow. I've been doing 10-20 3min subs on each object and the weather has been kind enough recently so I have a fair bit now but I'm running out of the bigger ones. The obvious method is just cropping in processing but that would give less detail, a good example of the perfect size is crescent nebula. A bad example is basically anything that takes up less than 10% of the picture like the box galaxy cluster, eskimo nebula, fetus, snowball, cat's eye etc. I tried a 2x barlow on my rct but I need so many extension tubes that it would cause many problems, maybe a dedicated CCD camera will have a shorter fov?
I have a CPC 800 Edge HD as well as an Orion Starshoot Autoguider. I recently ordered a ZWO ASI294 MC Pro colour camera. In terms of the auto guide function I had planned on using PHD2 (which I already downloaded onto my Mac laptop). In terms of researching software that would allow for control of the camera I understand there are a number of options. I considered purchasing an ASIair, however, I understand that is not compatible with the Orion Starshoot Autoguider, and therefore I would need to replace that with a ZWO. I am hesitant to want to do that, even though it would be convenient not to have to bother with laptop connectivity. Right now I've been using my iPhone for goto functionality with Starsense and Skyportal wifi. I understand there are a number of options available for Windows based PCs in terms of control of camera and image acquisition. BackyardEOS (for DSLR cameras), Astrophotography Tool, and Nebulosity. These seem to be the most popular. However, it looks to me as though APT is just for Windows based PC. As well, not sure the extent to which Nebulosity is seamless when it comes to Mac compatibility. Is there a recommended Image Acquisition software for Mac users? Is a Windows PC laptop dedicated for astrophotography the best approach (e.g. second hand etc)? I would appreciate your recommendations. Thanks
I've just had a Canon EOS 250d modified by Juan, IR filter off and shim to restore focal plane. He previously did the same for a 100d which got me going in the hobby. Juan is willing and able to take on successive generations of camera. I prefer to rely on Juan's experience for this task, despite me being an optics specialist professionally. The cost of the camera and Juan's conversion service together are a bargain and I trust him with a new camera.
I like to use this type of imager over the specialist cameras because they are the result of Canon's massive R&D capability and bundle together all these functions: battery, an up to date sensor chip, the on-board software, on-board storage, built-in display, easy-fit Astronomik filter. In the case of the 250d, that very important tiltable display so you don't have to crawl around on the wet lawn to see it. The only thing they don't have is an easily-implemented thermo-electric cooling. But I've got a long way to go in astro-imaging before I care about noise that much (though I'd like to cool, and understand what can be achieved, I use stacking averaging in the meantime to go part way in that respect).
The dslr is my one imager for three rigs, the most notable being that it's lightweight enough to go on my Omegon clockwork mount.
On my heftier rig, I do have an Altair camera with a Sony back-lit chip but only use it for tracking with a wireless-controlled Stellarmate setup, having got fed up with all the cables and tablet pc with memory dangling off it.