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About the longest I have done 12 hours


alan potts

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I am putting the data here if I can as a tiff if anyone would like to play and show me how good the data is. my effort is I am sure poor compared to what can be done, I would just like to see if I am near decent. I don't have a way of doing gradients and this is important so bear that in mind.

Not always hit the spot as you can see and some of the data is with a first quarter around though not that near. This is 180x 4min with only a darkmaster no other calibration frames. It is DSS 95% selection so a bit less than 12 hours.

 Autosave001 copy.tif  file

 

My effort

 

Autosave001.thumb.jpg.27b6eeabf60d123097eb05392f2a3540.jpg

Hope you find I did a decent job with at least the capture.

Alan

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4 minutes ago, vineyard said:

Tbh that looks pretty good to my eyes - thank you for sharing the .tif as well - something to while away cloudy days with :)

Your more than welcome, it would be nice to see what can be done, I know to remove gradient in an image can boost it no end. I should point out this was a 95% selection by DSS so a it's about 12 hours, there was in fact 180 4 minute subs taken over 12 months.

Alan

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Hi Alan,

I'm having a lash at your m33 data but to do a Photometric colour calibration in pixinsight I need to know the imaging focal length ( after any reducer) and the pixel size of the imaging camera - Can you provide that and I'll get back at it?

Rgds

 

David

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Hi Alan,

 

So here is my interpretation of your data. Its great clean data and I dont think I've done it justice (but remember I'm very much a beginner and I'm sure others could work it better)

I've got a bit of a "cinematic wide-screen" thing going on and I've brought out the blues, the ha and the details of the core more - because thats what I like! Not everyone does.

Anyway - if you want I can give you the linear tiff with just the gradients removed if you would like to try it further yourself - just let me know and I'll PM you a link.

What are you using for processing?

Alan-Potts_M33_DLM_R2.thumb.png.f729bd26786a9f99045cd2dfdb18ce56.png

Edited by mackiedlm
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57 minutes ago, mackiedlm said:

Hi Alan,

 

So here is my interpretation of your data. Its great clean data and I dont think I've done it justice (but remember I'm very much a beginner and I'm sure others could work it better)

I've got a bit of a "cinematic wide-screen" thing going on and I've brought out the blues, the ha and the details of the core more - because thats what I like! Not everyone does.

Anyway - if you want I can give you the linear tiff with just the gradients removed if you would like to try it further yourself - just let me know and I'll PM you a link.

What are you using for processing?

Alan-Potts_M33_DLM_R2.thumb.png.f729bd26786a9f99045cd2dfdb18ce56.png

Well, that's different. I use PS and don't have anything else apart from more clear skies that the Uk. As for being a beginner, really, I think we in the most part we are, though there are some really top rate astro-photographers on SGL some of the stuff we see posted is truely stunning.

Great image and thanks for having a go, I have just shot another 3 hours.

Bed time,

Alan

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Tried a slightly different approach, Alan.  Not sure if it has actually worked, but thank you very much for posting the data - great fun to have a play with.

In trying to get more detail, I think I've slightly over cooked it and it has got a rather speckled appearance. 

See what you think?

Alan.thumb.jpg.a2e09c40cb8a0cb6a8a83f38c54001d0.jpg

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11 minutes ago, alan potts said:

Well, that's different. I use PS and don't have anything else apart from more clear skies that the Uk. As for being a beginner, really, I think we in the most part we are, though there are some really top rate astro-photographers on SGL some of the stuff we see posted is truely stunning.

Great image and thanks for having a go, I have just shot another 3 hours.

Bed time,

Alan

No bother - it was fun to use data from a cooled dedicated camera - I only use DSLR at this stage.

GradientXterminator works really well in PS for removing gradients.

 

looking forward to seeing it with the additional data.

 

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14 hours ago, almcl said:

Tried a slightly different approach, Alan.  Not sure if it has actually worked, but thank you very much for posting the data - great fun to have a play with.

In trying to get more detail, I think I've slightly over cooked it and it has got a rather speckled appearance. 

See what you think?

Alan.thumb.jpg.a2e09c40cb8a0cb6a8a83f38c54001d0.jpg

A nice rendition, softer, I find it interesting how even using the same tools how it's never the same twice. You have managed a lot more with the dust than me, I may try colour select and lift it a bit, that the thing you can do it over and over again, shot 3 more hours last night though guiding early on was not the best, had to dump 6-7 frames

Alan

 

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7 hours ago, mackiedlm said:

No bother - it was fun to use data from a cooled dedicated camera - I only use DSLR at this stage.

GradientXterminator works really well in PS for removing gradients.

 

looking forward to seeing it with the additional data.

 

I know about Gradiient, I am just a little reluctant to use cards on the Net to buy things.

Alan

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14 hours ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

Hi Alan,

I would be more than happy with that, lots of detail in that and some great colours.

But after saying that some people just seem to be able to pull rabbits out of hats and make any data seem so much better.

Steve

Yes they do pull rabbits out of hats, some people like Olly are truly exceptional but also very modest about their skill.

Alan

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Hi Alan

Trust you are well  ...  This is what I could do with it in Pixinsight and Photoshop..  Cropped, background extracted, photometrically colour calibrated, stretched and background colour reduced in Pixinsight..  then a bit of noise reduction, colour and contrast enhancement  and dust bunny repair in Photoshop..  I've attached the background extracted and colour calibrated file for you to have a play with..  A pretty good set of data, one thing I'd recommend you do to improve your data is to take and use flats.

All the best

Dave 

Alan_M33_Crop_DBE_pcc_HSVrep_ArcS5_HT_ps_PI_ps2.thumb.jpg.3432588a1d3535949fb4d0f8c8f898f4.jpg

 

 

Alan_M33_Crop_DBE_pcc_HSVrep.tif

 

 

 

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On 26/10/2020 at 10:47, alan potts said:

I am putting the data here if I can as a tiff if anyone would like to play and show me how good the data is. my effort is I am sure poor compared to what can be done, I would just like to see if I am near decent. I don't have a way of doing gradients and this is important so bear that in mind.

My effort

Hi looks good to me, maybe just a LP gradient that could be removed as you say. Gradient exterminator is a good PS plugin. 

What scope did you use?

Adam

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13 hours ago, Adam J said:

Hi looks good to me, maybe just a LP gradient that could be removed as you say. Gradient exterminator is a good PS plugin. 

What scope did you use?

Adam

I used an 800mm APO, at it's native focal length, I do sometimes use it with a reduce which drops it to 635mm but I seem to get some odd flare from it that ruins the captures. It comes from a LED that is about 100m away, it use to be covered by a very large walnut tree, but they cut it down. I have tried an extended lens hood which seems to help but pointing south is off the menu now.

Alan

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11 hours ago, Wyvernp said:

That was nice clean data to play with and gradients aside a great image.

Here's my take on on the data after giving it a quick process in PI

171225963_Autosave001copy.thumb.jpg.69046ff3312b8765452dfd1ee56c8f0e.jpg

Cheers,

Wyvern

I do find it interesting just how many different versions you can get from the same data, some of the others got brown lanes in that I couldn't you have more purple in there that I didn't really see at all, even though I always have a play with colours individually

Thank for have a go, very nice image too.

Alan

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13 hours ago, Laurin Dave said:

Hi Alan

Trust you are well  ...  This is what I could do with it in Pixinsight and Photoshop..  Cropped, background extracted, photometrically colour calibrated, stretched and background colour reduced in Pixinsight..  then a bit of noise reduction, colour and contrast enhancement  and dust bunny repair in Photoshop..  I've attached the background extracted and colour calibrated file for you to have a play with..  A pretty good set of data, one thing I'd recommend you do to improve your data is to take and use flats.

All the best

Dave 

Alan_M33_Crop_DBE_pcc_HSVrep_ArcS5_HT_ps_PI_ps2.thumb.jpg.3432588a1d3535949fb4d0f8c8f898f4.jpg

 

 

Alan_M33_Crop_DBE_pcc_HSVrep.tif 70.17 MB · 0 downloads

 

 

 

Lovely shot Dave can see the improvement over my effort. I dither between shots so don't bother with flats. I know I should but I haven't really pulled off taking a decent set. We had this conversation a fair while ago. Mine were ways too dark I think it was and you gave me help and told me what to do. The trouble is I am often changing things about and as you know new flats are needed every time. Must give it try though. I mounted the Borg on the scope the other day so I will be doing a run of data with that scope, weather has other idea though.

Take care, Alan

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13 hours ago, Adam J said:

Hi looks good to me, maybe just a LP gradient that could be removed as you say. Gradient exterminator is a good PS plugin. 

What scope did you use?

Adam

I do have a bit of LP to the south east from the LED's in town which is 4 miles away. A fair bit of this data was shot with as much as first quarter and a day after.

Alan

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1 hour ago, alan potts said:

I dither between shots so don't bother with flats.

Do you mean darks?

Dithering is not going to address many of the things which flats fix, like vignetting and dust bunnies.   Flats make a huge difference, generally. 

Tony

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1 hour ago, AKB said:

Do you mean darks?

Dithering is not going to address many of the things which flats fix, like vignetting and dust bunnies.   Flats make a huge difference, generally. 

Tony

I guess reading what you say I do, in truth I have forgotten what does what Tony, I do put a dark in the stack every time but was blissfully unaware that as you point out Dither has a great affect on hot pixel and the like. Must try to do a set. My trouble is i am always turning the camera to fit things in, like last night, made a start on the Soul but had to turn the camera to get it all, this would mean I would require another set of Flats.

Do you need both dark and lighter flats, or is that something else I have mixed up, too much rakia is my problem.

Alan

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Hi Alan

Darks and Dithering deal with sensor noise, hot pixels.... as AKB states Flats sort out vignetting and dust bunnies...  you'll also need a set of Flat Darks to calibrate your Flats ...   (A short dark taken at the same camera settings exposure and temperature as the flats)..  which may be what's confused you..   When you rotate your camera does the rotation also include any reducer/flattener and filter (ie they stay in the same rotation relative to the camera) ?  If so then the flats will, in my experience, still work..  I'd experiment and see, will save a bit of work...   Had forgotten we'd had the conversation about flats before ... and I cant' blame rakia..

ATB

Dave

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17 hours ago, Laurin Dave said:

Hi Alan

Darks and Dithering deal with sensor noise, hot pixels.... as AKB states Flats sort out vignetting and dust bunnies...  you'll also need a set of Flat Darks to calibrate your Flats ...   (A short dark taken at the same camera settings exposure and temperature as the flats)..  which may be what's confused you..   When you rotate your camera does the rotation also include any reducer/flattener and filter (ie they stay in the same rotation relative to the camera) ?  If so then the flats will, in my experience, still work..  I'd experiment and see, will save a bit of work...   Had forgotten we'd had the conversation about flats before ... and I cant' blame rakia..

ATB

Dave

Thanks Dave, never thought about the flattener, of course I can rotate the whole lot no matter what I have in place. I can do it on the Borg too. The one thing I struggle with is how to do them properly. I know a good while back you looked at a flat of mine and said they were way too light. I read something last night about using the histogram, I must experiment with this to find out the correct exposure, I have a good light box so setting it up is not difficult. Some how I got into my head with dithering you don't need them, wrong again.

Alan 

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