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I have been imaging the California nebula and found that there was a large gradient in the final image. I have now taken some flat frames for the setup and found that the gradient was in all of the photos and took up about 1/3 of the sensor space.
I have attached an image of a flat frame to show the issue.
I am currently using a skywatcher esprit 100ed with my ASI 294 MC PRO. Between the two of them are, field flattened, ZWO OAG, 2 spacers and ontology l-enhance filter. I have checked down the objective and can see no issues with the alignment up to the filter. All threads are screwed in correctly with a snug fit, and there are no massive pieces of debris covering the objective.
need help ASAP please.
By Mark Jo
hi, apologies if this is not correct location for this question
Trying to setup for guiding for first time with these cameras ASI385 MC and ASI290 mm mini , when both connected on usb3 and USB 2 respectively only the ASI290 appears and is duplicated. Both on USB2 appear correctly
Have looked at various forums and have checked the details below but nothing has helped with this.
Guide camera ZWO ASI290 mm mini connected by usb 2 port and ZWO ASI385 MC for imaging to USB 3 port both with new 2 meter usb cables
10 year old Toshiba laptop
No obvious issues connecting singly.
Both appear in device manager with correct name.
In Sharpcap when both are connected ASI385 to usb3 and ASI to USB 2, the ASI290 appears duplicated and no 385.
Both connected to USB 2 ports they appear correctly under the ZWO cameras.
Have looked in some forums and have most recent version of sharpcap installed, updated ZWO drivers, disabled USB Selective suspend in the power management and disabled the sleep option in windows.
Checked the USB drivers and they appear to be upto date
When both cameras were connected the ASI 290 was losing connection every 20 – 30 seconds, disabling USB Selective suspend being disabled appears to have stopped this happening
Is it that the laptop needs to be retired at least from astroimaging I saw a mention that there could be an issue with chipset, or is there anything else that I can do ?
Restoring a Backup on a Mac
Something else I came across and a chap called Terry on Facebook had a solution.
Again, you might already know this, but just in case.
You buy a new ASIAIR Pro, you are pretty much advised that one of the first things you should do, is to create a backup of your software(includes your license key) from the supplied SD card.
And one of the common methods suggested for Mac users is to use the “Apple Pi Baker” program/application.
So, I used the application to create my backup and saved it in a safe place, in fact I made two copies(belt and braces).
Then, yesterday, I thought I should really try to restore one of these backups to make sure they actually work, else what is the point of having a backup for that rainy day.
And actually, I will keep the original safe and use my copy going forward.
So, I inserted a new blank SD card(Fat32) and started the restore process, letting it run its course.
Once it had finished, I did a quick eye ball to compare the copy to the original and all the files appeared to be there.
I then plugged the restored SD card back into the ASIAIR Pro, but the device would not start/boot up!
Just in case, I then reformatted another SD card and tried that one, but still no good.
I then created another backup from the original SD card(so all in all I had img and zip versions) and tried to restore them, the same result, fail.
On further investigation, it looks like this is fairly common.
Terry on ASIAIR Facebook group suggested downloading the file from the ZWO website, but then using your own License file.
I then used the ASIAIR PRO link above(from the “How_to_Restore_ASIAIR_OS.pdf” on line doc) to get the file.
First, keeping a copy of my zwoair_license safe of course(still on the original SD card).
The file is pretty large, unzips to about 31 GB and takes a while to download(9GB zipped) even on cable.
I then restored(using Apple Pi Baker) this new downloaded file to my new SD card and once it had completed, I then overwrote(replaced) the
existing “zwoair_license” file with my original(my unique supplied copy).
Next, I then inserted the new copied/restored SD card into the ASIAIR Pro and it started.
Finally, I then connected via the ASIAIR app using my IPhone and was prompted to update the firmware to the latest version which I did.
Bingo all good, the original SD card supplied by ZWO stored in a safe place and I am now using this copy going forward.
After detecting a small fracture on the edge of the protective window of my ASI294MC Pro some time ago, I managed to replace it with a new one. ZWO describes the glass as "ZWO D32 AR" for the ASI294. AR probably stands for anti-reflective, not sure. I was wondering if the glass should be installed pointing in a specific direction, or is the anti-reflection both ways? I'm seeing some halos while pointing at bright stars but could be something else, see attached start image as a reference (a single frame exposure).
Thanks in advance for any help.
Hi all, just getting straight to the point.
Just got a Rasp Pi 400 (equivalent to Pi4-4GB), and looking to get into guiding through this as it's obviously a popular (and successful) technique.
Plan is to have the RPi as mini computer at home, running it with RaspPiOS (supplied on µSD with the full kit), then use it with a SECOND micro SD card for astro - I figure having another SD to run Astroberry (as on SGL) may ignore any issues with the family using the pi for other stuff in the house, giving a stand-alone 'computer' as the OS and files would be available on different SD's.
From this point, I'd setup as follows:
Connect the RPi directly via USB to the mount (it's the newer SW-AZ-EQ6Pro with the USB-B port on the mount)
Guidescope (240mm f/4) with T7C (equivalent to ZWO Mini) again USB-B direct to RPi
Nikon DSLR (either on telescope or using camera lenses) connected to RPi via Nikon USB (using the 3 USB points on the RPi-400) to control capture and later using this for plate-solving (but that's not for just right now!)
I don't spy any flaws in the plan, it's just going to be a matter of testing and setting things up hoping to follow the guide for Astroberry as linked to SGL below...
Or is there an alternative OS? From brief reading, Astroberry includes KStars & PHD2 which is what I've got for use on the macbook (although not used in earnest as it doesn't appear to like the cold too much!)
What about guiding software - I know KStars comes with it's own, and can run PHD2 from within, with PHD2 being the industry standard (and simplest?) to use?
Control will then be sitting in the warm via OS-X, which seems to be again a common technique as I've had posts on my other questions about this!