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Astrid

Astrophotography camera

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On 27/09/2020 at 21:42, discardedastro said:

Definitely look second hand for a DSLR in that price range. One camera for both AP and DSOs is a tricky call; you may do better to specialise initially. DSOs are by far the more challenging as ideally you want a cooled sensor so are in to specialist cameras (~£400 second-hand, £700+ new, and up from there); planetary targets are much brighter so don't need a cooled sensor or such high sensitivity.

You could look at things like the ZWO ASI120MC or 294 - these are fine for planetary (less good than a DSLR for resolution, but with faster refresh rates for lucky imaging) and can be repurposed as a guide camera if you want to transition to DSOs (and for most DSOs, guiding becomes a requirement pretty quickly).

The ZWO ASI120MC you mention has 3.74 micron pixels so it actually has a considerably higher resolution than, say, a 450D with 5.2 micron pixels. Resolution derives only from pixel size and focal length. What the DSLRs have is a much bigger chip and so a wider field of view.

Olly

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As others have mentioned, I had a 200P for a number of years and bolted a Canon DSLR to it using a Barlow, don't recall having any problems other than how fast everything moves. Enjoy

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7 hours ago, M40 said:

As others have mentioned, I had a 200P for a number of years and bolted a Canon DSLR to it using a Barlow, don't recall having any problems other than how fast everything moves. Enjoy

Hi! Is the barlow necessarily? I own a 2x one that has a T2 thread but I'm afraid that the field of view would be too small to fit big DSO like Andromeda or M42. (canon DSLR too).

Edited by Astrid

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12 hours ago, Astrid said:

Hi! Is the barlow necessarily? I own a 2x one that has a T2 thread but I'm afraid that the field of view would be too small to fit big DSO like Andromeda or M42. (canon DSLR too).

I was just taking pictures of the moon and planets as far as I could so didn't really try with DSO other than double stars. You can use the FLO field of view calculator and play with different set ups using your telescope to see what you can achieve only problem is it will definitely add stuff to your Christmas wish list 🤣

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On 20/11/2020 at 13:23, ollypenrice said:

The ZWO ASI120MC you mention has 3.74 micron pixels so it actually has a considerably higher resolution than, say, a 450D with 5.2 micron pixels. Resolution derives only from pixel size and focal length. What the DSLRs have is a much bigger chip and so a wider field of view.

Olly

Quite right, my mistake - field of view/number of pixels is what I was trying to get at there!

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19 minutes ago, Nicola Hannah Butterfield said:

@Astrid

orin_nebula_20200118-Edit-Edit.thumb.jpg.73007127ce8a500f5abc0ed16daa18de.jpg

I managed this on an unguided 200P with a Canon 6D in January, before I got my new mount. It is a bit noisy, but I was using a high ISO and short exposures, so never say never. Have fun learning.

Amazing!

 

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The 200P works fine with a DSLR. I imaged for a few years with mine. I think dedicated astro cameras struggle with it hence the PDS model. However the EQ5 is on the limts for imaging with a 200P because it is like sail in the slightest wind. Fine for visual work though but beware that the eyepiece can get to awkward positions necessitating rotating the tube within the scope rings so you are not seeking a chiropractor after every session.

Always an issue when mounting Newtonians on a equatorial mount.

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6 hours ago, TerryMcK said:

The 200P works fine with a DSLR. I imaged for a few years with mine. I think dedicated astro cameras struggle with it hence the PDS model. However the EQ5 is on the limts for imaging with a 200P because it is like sail in the slightest wind. Fine for visual work though but beware that the eyepiece can get to awkward positions necessitating rotating the tube within the scope rings so you are not seeking a chiropractor after every session.

Always an issue when mounting Newtonians on a equatorial mount.

Yep - EQ5's definitely the limit. EQ6-R Pro here and I still suffer from wind affecting guiding somewhat and it does take a fair bit of active correction.

The dual-speed focuser is a must even for visual if you ask me, but easy enough to retrofit if you need to with only basic tools. I retrofit a Baader Steeltrak Diamond to my 200PDS and the improvement is quite drastic (as you'd expect for a £200 focuser!) visually, but with a focus motor for imaging (with a dedicated astro camera) it's been flawless as a focuser. There's lower-cost options, of course, and they'll still be a big step up from a single speed focuser for getting the focus dialled in right.

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13 hours ago, discardedastro said:

Yep - EQ5's definitely the limit. EQ6-R Pro here and I still suffer from wind affecting guiding somewhat and it does take a fair bit of active correction.

The dual-speed focuser is a must even for visual if you ask me, but easy enough to retrofit if you need to with only basic tools. I retrofit a Baader Steeltrak Diamond to my 200PDS and the improvement is quite drastic (as you'd expect for a £200 focuser!) visually, but with a focus motor for imaging (with a dedicated astro camera) it's been flawless as a focuser. There's lower-cost options, of course, and they'll still be a big step up from a single speed focuser for getting the focus dialled in right.

I know, I'm lucky that I'll image somewhere where there is little to no wind. 

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On 19/11/2020 at 12:23, bottletopburly said:

Could you be more specific 

I have the Skywatcher 8 inch Newtonian reflector(BKP2001DS optical tube). I wanted to know if someone who uses the same tube has knowledge about the back focus for the tube

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15 minutes ago, Gaurav Mk said:

I have the Skywatcher 8 inch Newtonian reflector(BKP2001DS optical tube). I wanted to know if someone who uses the same tube has knowledge about the back focus for the tube

I have the same telescope, you shouldn't have problems if you use a DSLR. Lots of people I know do that just fine, and I'll try it too when the sky clears...

Astrid

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13 minutes ago, Astrid said:

I have the same telescope, you shouldn't have problems if you use a DSLR. Lots of people I know do that just fine, and I'll try it too when the sky clears...

Astrid

I plan to use the Nikon camera attached to a T2 adapter which goes into the adapter which has one side with 42mm*0.75 mm threads and other end as 2". I plan to connect this to the extension tube which has 2" filter threads and then a filter attached. The whole thing will go into the focusser opening. This should work right?

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1 hour ago, Gaurav Mk said:

I plan to use the Nikon camera attached to a T2 adapter which goes into the adapter which has one side with 42mm*0.75 mm threads and other end as 2". I plan to connect this to the extension tube which has 2" filter threads and then a filter attached. The whole thing will go into the focusser opening. This should work right?

I believe so, yes - you will need the extension tube for sure but I've done a similar arrangement and it works using a Z6 and FTZ adapter which should be the same flange distance as Nikon F-mount DSLRs.

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On 19/11/2020 at 12:23, bottletopburly said:

Could you be more specific 

I have the Skywatcher BKP2001DS(I believe this is 200PDS). I have bought a Nikon D5300 camera and planning to buy an t ring for connection. 

I want to know how will I achieve the focus with this setup? Across forum I have seen that for 200P the backfocus is small and we cannot have anything extra between the camera and the focusser. However for the 200PDS seems like we need an extension tube. Is this right?

I will need an extension tube in between so that I can plug in my filters. So I just wanted to know what is the back focus number of 200PDSwhich can help me choose better

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You’ll have no problem with focus I had a 200p and now a 200pds , now all you need is a Nikon T-ring  m42 thread  make is unimportant  , and all I did to connect was , as standard on 200p they supply an adapter 1.25 inch that you insert your eyepiece, unscrew the very bottom section from the 1.25” barrel section ,it is the 2” piece that fits into focuser(no need for an extension) you need now you will see it is threaded m42 thread this now screws into the threads on the Tring m42 thread  creating a nosepiece, attach Tring to camera  that can now be inserted into the focus tube that’s all you do , if you buy a baader  coma corrector you screw the barrel of that into the Trng instead of the piece from the skywatcher adapter , I too use a Nikon D5300 just use Iso 200 as this camera is iso invariant so no need to use a higher iso .

If you use a 2” filter all I do is remove the  glass and retaining ring from the 2” outer part and thread this into the camera side of the Tring usually they have two threads camera side m48 and opposite side m42 thread , just be careful and I use a plastic needle from my wife’s knitting to unthread the filter , if you use a baader cc then 2” can screw onto nosepiece , I prefer to fit to T ring as that keeps filter   closer to sensor and also keeps dust out camera , currently I have an idas D2 filter fitted to my Tring  hope this helps ,try to stick to a 2” nose to insert into telescope as this reduces vignetting when imaging  .  

Note just seen your going to use a 2” T adapter so that’s fine just screw filter onto end , screw onto T ring and bobs your uncle your all set to image  .

Dave 

Edited by bottletopburly
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59 minutes ago, bottletopburly said:

You’ll have no problem with focus I had a 200p and now a 200pds , now all you need is a Nikon T-ring  m42 thread  make is unimportant  , and all I did to connect was , as standard on 200p they supply an adapter 1.25 inch that you insert your eyepiece, unscrew the very bottom section from the 1.25” barrel section ,it is the 2” piece that fits into focuser(no need for an extension) you need now you will see it is threaded m42 thread this now screws into the threads on the Tring m42 thread  creating a nosepiece, attach Tring to camera  that can now be inserted into the focus tube that’s all you do , if you buy a baader  coma corrector you screw the barrel of that into the Trng instead of the piece from the skywatcher adapter , I too use a Nikon D5300 just use Iso 200 as this camera is iso invariant so no need to use a higher iso .

If you use a 2” filter all I do is remove the  glass and retaining ring from the 2” outer part and thread this into the camera side of the Tring usually they have two threads camera side m48 and opposite side m42 thread , just be careful and I use a plastic needle from my wife’s knitting to unthread the filter , if you use a baader cc then 2” can screw onto nosepiece , I prefer to fit to T ring as that keeps filter   closer to sensor and also keeps dust out camera , currently I have an idas D2 filter fitted to my Tring  hope this helps ,try to stick to a 2” nose to insert into telescope as this reduces vignetting when imaging  .  

Note just seen your going to use a 2” T adapter so that’s fine just screw filter onto end , screw onto T ring and bobs your uncle your all set to image  .

Dave 

Hey Dave, 

Thanks for your detailed reply. It was helpful.

However to attach the 2" filter I dont have M48 threads on the other side. For that I would have to purchase the coma corrector. So now in order to attach the 2" filter I need an extension tube that has threads on the other end.

Specifically, since you are using the 200PDS now, wouldn't you need an extension tube incase no coma corrector is used? Or will using an extension tube(2.5" in length) cause issues with 200PDS?

I have attached a rough diagram of my setup with 200PDS. I heard 200PDS has more backfocus than 200P. So will this work well? 

Since you have the 200PDS, do you have info regarding the backfocus for it?

Thanks in advance for all the help n suggestions

16063756100653155729223202624701.jpg

Edited by Gaurav Mk
Improvements

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@bottletopburly  and @Gaurav Mk - do you have a photo of your DSLR setup on the focuser that worked? I mounted my Nikon D5300 using the 2 in. adapter  (after removing the 1.25in tube that holds the eyepiece) and could not get focus. I tried different settings of the focuser tube. At best, I got was the spider vanes from secondary mirror.

My 200pds was well collimated.  

DSC_0120.NEF

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2 minutes ago, rohanpai said:

@bottletopburly  and @Gaurav Mk - do you have a photo of your DSLR setup on the focuser that worked? I mounted my Nikon D5300 using the 2 in. adapter  (after removing the 1.25in tube that holds the eyepiece) and could not get focus. I tried different settings of the focuser tube. At best, I got was the spider vanes from secondary mirror.

My 200pds was well collimated.  

DSC_0120.NEF 19.67 MB · 0 downloads

Can you take a picture of your camera with adapters in place ready to insert into focus tube and a picture of your focuser 

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On 10/01/2021 at 11:37, rohanpai said:

@bottletopburly  and @Gaurav Mk - do you have a photo of your DSLR setup on the focuser that worked? I mounted my Nikon D5300 using the 2 in. adapter  (after removing the 1.25in tube that holds the eyepiece) and could not get focus. I tried different settings of the focuser tube. At best, I got was the spider vanes from secondary mirror.

My 200pds was well collimated.  

DSC_0120.NEF 19.67 MB · 1 download

perhaps you locked the focuser? that's what happened to me once: there is this little screw under the focuser that should be loose. Otherwise, you won't be able to move the focuser and obviously focus. 

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On 27/09/2020 at 22:13, discardedastro said:

the 200P will probably work

The 200p reaches focus fine with a dslr.

The short answer is to simply unscrew the eyepiece holder and attach your camera using a t-ring

long answer

HTH

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7 hours ago, alacant said:

The 200p reaches focus fine with a dslr.

The short answer is to simply unscrew the eyepiece holder and attach your camera using a t-ring

long answer

HTH

Yup, I agree! My 200P reaches focus without any problems with my Canon 2000D.

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