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New ZWO mono camera on the way?


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13 minutes ago, gorann said:

Thanks - very good to know! The M48 adapter is what I need. It will turn the QHY268M it into an ASI2600MMūüĎć. The post says something about a tilt plate but someone here said that there was no tilt plate in the QHY268M.

I believe that he is referring to this top 'plate', which is screwed into the camera.

No photo description available.

On previous cameras such as the 268C this top plate is not present and instead is replaced with the dovetail style attachment. I have read people saying that this dovetail is what was labelled as the tilt plate on the previous cameras, hence my previous comment regarding the poor translation.

If this is actually a tilt adjuster then that would be quite useful, but it doesn't look particularly easy to adjust if it is! 

Based on the below diagram for the 268C, it looks like this is simply the top part of the camera, which encloses the sensor chamber. Removing the top plate and adjusting the screws in the above photo would not be a good idea in that case. My suspicion is that the top plate as above simply replaces the dovetail attachment and serves no tilt adjustment function.

20201103041901865.jpg

Edited by Spongey
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It's a super camera, it would want to be for the price. I haven't noticed any issues since i started using it in January. Zero amp glow, no reflection problems and nice deep wells. The cooling works b

First light with Heart Nebula, 4 hours of SHO with  80mm TS scope and flattener. The full moon did not help at all but at least I got to image something and check guiding etc. (camera is seriously hea

Apparently the ASI2600MM mono is coming soon  

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5 minutes ago, Spongey said:

I believe that he is referring to this top 'plate', which is screwed into the camera.

 

On previous cameras such as the 268C this top plate is not present and instead is replaced with the dovetail style attachment. I have read people saying that this dovetail is what was labelled as the tilt plate on the previous cameras, hence my previous comment regarding the poor translation.

If this is actually a tilt adjuster then that would be quite useful, but it doesn't look particularly easy to adjust if it is! 

If it is a tilt adjuster it must be one of the least accessible ones.

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1 minute ago, gorann said:

If it is a tilt adjuster it must be one of the least accessible ones.

I've just re-read the post and he mentions that the tilt adjuster adds 5mm. I've asked for a photo / further clarification.

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40 minutes ago, gorann said:

If it is a tilt adjuster it must be one of the least accessible ones.

Not familiar with how these work, but cant you just turn those screws with a pair of pointy nose pliers?

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FYI

Just received the following info from Rupert at Astrograph about the QHY268M cameras:

I have just opened up one of the 268M's we just had in to confirm what is supplied.

The camera provides 12.5mm BF from the back of the filter wheel.
It also  includes;

- a threaded M54 adapter of 4mm length giving you 16.5mm BF
- a threaded M48 adapter of 5mm length giving you 17.5mm BF
- 1 pc 1mm M54 spacer
- 3 pc 3mm M54 spacer
- 1 pc 10mm M54 spacer
- 1 pc M54 to 2" nose

So if you are using the SW flattener, this should have an 8mm spacer to M48 on the back of it which is 8mm thick. That is supposed to leave 55mm back focus.
The adapters supplied with the 268M, assuming the camera is bolted to the QHY CWF3-M-US will provide 44.5mm (1xM48 5mm, 1x1mm, 3x3mm, 1x10mm). This allows you to add a QHY OAG if need as that is 10mm and takes you up to 55mm. (Note the BF tolerance on the camera is +/- 0.5mm)
I also keep various adapter sets for the cameras, one of which includes 0.5mm, 1mm, 2mm, 3mm and 7mm. This would give you the 10mm otherwise needed. 

 

Just thought this might be useful for some to now up front ūüôā¬†

Steve

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I will detail it for sure, though I will most likely start a new thread dedicated to the 268M as this one has wandered very far from it's original intent.

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4 minutes ago, Spongey said:

I will detail it for sure, though I will most likely start a new thread dedicated to the 268M as this one has wandered very far from it's original intent.

Ha Ha , don't they all.

Yes good idea.

If somebody with the ZWO, when it comes, starts a thread then it would be good to see how they do compare. Although I suspect there will be many threads appearing with one or other of these cameras.
But with all of these being delivered to UK when can we expect a clear night ?

Steve

Edited by teoria_del_big_bang
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4 hours ago, Spongey said:

First batch of 2600MM finished! No photo description available.

No photo description available.

That¬†photo should come with a XXX Warning!¬†ūü§§

 

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35 minutes ago, Spongey said:

My 268M has just shipped! Should be here over the weekend or Monday.

I can't wait! :D:D

Mine is shipped also and is scheduled for Monday delivery.

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Having done my sums I've ordered some SX adaptors and a 36mm wheel from FLO, and a couple of adaptors from TS, now waiting to see how much I'll be clobbered by the exciseman (The divil awa' wi' th' exciseman).

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4 hours ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

FYI

Just received the following info from Rupert at Astrograph about the QHY268M cameras:

I have just opened up one of the 268M's we just had in to confirm what is supplied.

The camera provides 12.5mm BF from the back of the filter wheel.
It also  includes;

- a threaded M54 adapter of 4mm length giving you 16.5mm BF
- a threaded M48 adapter of 5mm length giving you 17.5mm BF
- 1 pc 1mm M54 spacer
- 3 pc 3mm M54 spacer
- 1 pc 10mm M54 spacer
- 1 pc M54 to 2" nose

So if you are using the SW flattener, this should have an 8mm spacer to M48 on the back of it which is 8mm thick. That is supposed to leave 55mm back focus.
The adapters supplied with the 268M, assuming the camera is bolted to the QHY CWF3-M-US will provide 44.5mm (1xM48 5mm, 1x1mm, 3x3mm, 1x10mm). This allows you to add a QHY OAG if need as that is 10mm and takes you up to 55mm. (Note the BF tolerance on the camera is +/- 0.5mm)
I also keep various adapter sets for the cameras, one of which includes 0.5mm, 1mm, 2mm, 3mm and 7mm. This would give you the 10mm otherwise needed. 

 

Just thought this might be useful for some to now up front ūüôā¬†

Steve

If Rupert's had a delivery then my camera should be on its way soon.

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With so many of us ordering new cameras, when do you think we'll get the next clear night

This year?

Next Year?

Sometime??!!

Never ???!!!

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2 minutes ago, DaveS said:

With so many of us ordering new cameras, when do you think we'll get the next clear night

This year?

Next Year?

Sometime??!!

Never ???!!!

Makes you wonder, mind you weather we have been having up here for I don't know how long some people much have bought the entire stock from FLO about September last year.

Steve

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Things are hotting up now! Cannot wait to see the results of first light from those lucky enough to get theirs soon! While I wait on mine I am eyeing up the new Antlia 3nm Pro filters (I currently have an Astronmik 6nm set). I know I can go Halo free at great expense (Astrodon/Chroma) but the new Antlia Pro's look very promising and come in at around £340 each. However, is 3nm actually usable under typical UK skies, for example 3nm on SII might not be great? Also bit wary for mixing 6nm (Ha and SIII) with a 3nm OIII for example as might mess with stars?

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3nm filters are very useable under UK skies, and with the moon around can make the difference between imaging or not. A narrower bandwidth won't affect how much wanted signal you get, as the emission line is much narrower than the bandpass of the filter, but it will knock down the unwanted background signal, ie light pollution..

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12 hours ago, Deeko said:

Things are hotting up now! Cannot wait to see the results of first light from those lucky enough to get theirs soon! While I wait on mine I am eyeing up the new Antlia 3nm Pro filters (I currently have an Astronmik 6nm set). I know I can go Halo free at great expense (Astrodon/Chroma) but the new Antlia Pro's look very promising and come in at around £340 each. However, is 3nm actually usable under typical UK skies, for example 3nm on SII might not be great? Also bit wary for mixing 6nm (Ha and SIII) with a 3nm OIII for example as might mess with stars?

Yes, the price on these was a bit better than I expected; I'd assumed they'd be a fair bit more than the 3.5nm versions. Only hesitation is we're heading into galaxy season, so they might not get any use till the summer. I may just buy an LRGB set to start with.

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On 27/01/2021 at 13:17, teoria_del_big_bang said:

Are you wanting a video about the imaging side (i.e taking subs, darks, flats etc) or the processing side (alignment,stacking,stretching etc) ?
In my opinion whilst there is a lot of very good info on you tube and the like if you want an overall summary then I think you are better off with a book. If you don't have it get "Every Photon Counts", its a  must, as useful as the camera, scope and mount in my opinion. 
It may not go into every aspect in depth but really gives an overall view of what is needed both imaging and processing.

I am not sure exactly what you are after I know you are not totally new to astronomy so is it just the mono side of imaging (i.e. needing multiple filter subs) that you are unfamiliar with ?

Depends to an extent on your setup (which scope, camera and distance from camera to filters and this tool will tell you exactly.

CCD Filter Size Tool

But I looked at a few scenarios with scopes and cameras and generally seems that some MAY get away with 31mm bu generally 36 mm unmounted seem to be the safe minimum.

Steve

It says minimum recommended filter size 30.34. So would 31mm filters be ok?

With regard to Mono imaging...

Just so I'm on the right track with how a Mono imaging session would go ... if any of it's wrong please let me know...

If I were to buy a Mono APS-C and a Filter Wheel, and I went for just LRGB Filters. I would need to buy

Camera
Electronic Filter Wheel, 5 or 7
LRGB Filters 

If I had a 4 hour imaging window for example.. I'd have everything ready to go and start off by just shooting an hour of L, the software then automatically switches the filter wheel around to the Blue Filter, I have to refocus by slewing to a bright star, put on bahitnov mask and focus, slew back to target and carry on imaging, then after another hour I repeat the same process with R and then G, at the end of the 4 hours I then take flats with the G filter in place for all filters. Imaging session complete.

This is really exactly what I'd like to know - how that is done ^ because at the moment it's very basic with my DSLR, just focus, slew to target, plate solve. Shoot, take flats at theend of the session. Just want to be sure what is different and what is involved with Mono imaging.

Really appreciate any help!

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1 hour ago, smr said:

It says minimum recommended filter size 30.34. So would 31mm filters be ok?

With regard to Mono imaging...

Just so I'm on the right track with how a Mono imaging session would go ... if any of it's wrong please let me know...

If I were to buy a Mono APS-C and a Filter Wheel, and I went for just LRGB Filters. I would need to buy

Camera
Electronic Filter Wheel, 5 or 7
LRGB Filters 

If I had a 4 hour imaging window for example.. I'd have everything ready to go and start off by just shooting an hour of L, the software then automatically switches the filter wheel around to the Blue Filter, I have to refocus by slewing to a bright star, put on bahitnov mask and focus, slew back to target and carry on imaging, then after another hour I repeat the same process with R and then G, at the end of the 4 hours I then take flats with the G filter in place for all filters. Imaging session complete.

This is really exactly what I'd like to know - how that is done ^ because at the moment it's very basic with my DSLR, just focus, slew to target, plate solve. Shoot, take flats at theend of the session. Just want to be sure what is different and what is involved with Mono imaging.

Really appreciate any help!

When I swapped from a DSLR to mono the first thing I learnt was that parfocal filters aren't and I absolutely needed to refocus on every filter change. This soon became a real chore and I added autofocus, it's one of the best additions you can make.

I started off with SGP refocusing on every filter change, and as this takes time I'd run all my blue subs, then green then red.  I found this was resulting in too many partially completed images, so I worked out the focus position offsets, initial focus is done with L and I can now run B - G - R - L subs and know the focus will be spot on for each filter.

Another advantage of autofocusing is staying in focus as the ambient temperature drops.  I autofocus every 1.5C temp change knowing I'll always have spot on focus.

Your example workflow assumes you'll have a four hour window of clear sky, the recent weather proves this isn't always the case.  You can of course shoot over multiple nights and I almost always do this, but with autofocus you can have subs to create a usable image after a relatively short period of time.

 

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