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arrghh newton rings! why flats! whyyyy!


Kitsunegari
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1 hour ago, vineyard said:

Hi Nigella, may I ask whether you keep this tilter between the diagonal & the focus draw tube (so that you can still use an EP) or after the diagonal?

I've just gotten a Solar Quest.  What a brilliant idea - makes set-up & tracking so much easier.  But it seems to do its job too well b/c since the Sun doesn't move in the image, I'm getting NR even without a 2.5x PM now!

I'm hoping that a T2 tilt adaptor could be permanently setup between the diagonal & the focuser (esp as I use an ASI120mm mini and the 1.25 nose on that would make connecting it directly to a tilt adaptor slightly problematic.

Thank you,

Vin

My tilt adapter is placed at the front of my zwo ASI 178mm and then the draw tube placed in front of that which then goes into the diagonal.

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On 13/06/2020 at 00:27, Kitsunegari said:

So my flats effectively are not functioning properly in any program i use.  What could i be doing wrong?

The flats are 10,000 frames , the image is 3000.

 

Mars_172940_grad5_ap1026.png.a14857902376bb6dba560aa89249be54.png

 

test2.tif 1.98 MB · 30 downloads 0001.bmp 1.13 MB · 30 downloads

Hello Kit

 

On 13/06/2020 at 00:27, Kitsunegari said:

So my flats effectively are not functioning properly in any program i use.  What could i be doing wrong?

The flats are 10,000 frames , the image is 3000.

 

Mars_172940_grad5_ap1026.png.a14857902376bb6dba560aa89249be54.png

 

test2.tif 1.98 MB · 30 downloads 0001.bmp 1.13 MB · 30 downloads

Hello Kitsunegari,

 

Did you solve your Newton Ring's problems. I am on my way to solving this.  Which camera and solar telescope are you using ?

 

Thanks

Magnus

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9 hours ago, Altair8389 said:

Hello Kit

 

Hello Kitsunegari,

 

Did you solve your Newton Ring's problems. I am on my way to solving this.  Which camera and solar telescope are you using ?

 

Thanks

Magnus

I never found a fix for them unfortunately, and pretty much gave up.   I think the solution is to mount the telescope in a bedroom, then using a 500 watt lamp with saran wrap over the objective and then record 1 million frames of the lamp. :)

I say 500 watts because you need to match the exposure level settings for the particular filter system used, and the amount of light output at that particular wavelength from the lamp.     

 

The 1 million frames remark is just a quip,  it may only require 500,000 frames 🤣

 

Since the camera records at 500 frames per second,  there may be a fractional factoring of required frames compared to a camera that is much slower.    I,E  a slower camera sees more motion blur in detail by the drifting, and a fast camera sees zero blur from the motion.    

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Just following the NR issues, I get some with the ASI174mm and lots with the QHY163M , using the offset adapter that came with the Combo Quark it fixes most but not all of the NR but the fitting it not very stable and scary with the 163 hanging off the back.

Interesting that you say the Powermates can cause NR also. I use a TV4X or a ES2X 

Not sure how practical it is but removing the glass in front of the sensor would help alleviate the rings ?  Haven't tried it here just a thought.

Cliff

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2 hours ago, Clifff said:

Just following the NR issues, I get some with the ASI174mm and lots with the QHY163M , using the offset adapter that came with the Combo Quark it fixes most but not all of the NR but the fitting it not very stable and scary with the 163 hanging off the back.

Interesting that you say the Powermates can cause NR also. I use a TV4X or a ES2X 

Not sure how practical it is but removing the glass in front of the sensor would help alleviate the rings ?  Haven't tried it here just a thought.

Cliff

I've removed the front glass from my zwo 178mm and it does help to get rid of the NR. Only found out by accident when I fitted a low profile nose piece and lost the glass, lol. Doing that and using a tilt plate has done the trick. Have not got a clue why, lol. 

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I have them at an acceptable level with my Chameleon (CCD) Camera.
BUT they are still there! My HEQ5 "wanders about" a bit, and if try to
do Solar Disk *animations*, the NRs still "dance" over the result. 🥳

But it's gratifying how a STATIC pattern can eventually "disappear"!
That said, you can *deliberately* let the Sun's Disk drift over the chip
- changing mount tracking to a value close, but not quite, solar rate.
Can Help with the final smoothing of a *static* (stacked) image. 🙂

Oooops - Old thread - Good job I mostly agree with myself?!?  🤡

Edited by Macavity
P.S. OLD not ODD - Genuine Typo! :D
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On 15/10/2021 at 18:26, Nigella Bryant said:

I've removed the front glass from my zwo 178mm and it does help to get rid of the NR. Only found out by accident when I fitted a low profile nose piece and lost the glass, lol. Doing that and using a tilt plate has done the trick. Have not got a clue why, lol. 

Might try it thanks Nigella. Only have a 174MM was thinking of a 178mm , have a 178mc but not really Solar suitable.

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