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Hi - I just wanna share my latest build - based on Starlight Express optical rig in which they align their camerachip / housings before the ship them out - And i was inspired to build my own.
I am very keen to be able to do so much adjustments and tuning to my gear during the day as possible - and this is another method of doing just that, and in this case the aligning of camera tilt which can be a royal PITA during the dark and -20 degree C.
So, here is the SX article on what i was going to build: SX Article
Note: I haven't reciieved my new camera yet so the video does not contain the actual adjustment, but as soon as i get my new camera - I will show just how it works!
Very simple , takes 5 minutes.
No additional parts or tools needed , only the 2 allen keys included in the kit.
Step 1 Remove the coarse focus knob (one with the thermometer). You can use the small allen key supplied with the EAF.
Place the removed part in a secure bag for safe keeping , you will need to refit it if you remove the motor at a later stage.
Step 2 Remove the focus lock knob AND the blanking grub screw on the other side. (small allen key) Place in secure bag for reuse if you remove the motor.
Step 3 Fit the coupler that suits (3rd largest in the 4 supplied in the kit. Remember to match up the first grub screw with the flat on the spindle. There should be a small gap so the coupler does not rub against the OTA body. (small allen key).
Step 4 Fit the motor onto the coupler. Remember to match up the first grub screw with the flat on the spindle.
I also made sure both the flat on OTA spindle and the flat on motor spindle were aligned. This may not be necessary but I think it helps them align best.
There should be a small gap between the coupler and the motor housing to avoid rubbing. (small allen key).
Step 5 Fit the mounting bracket LOOSLY onto the motor using the screws in Pack A , use the washers for good grip. (Large allen key)
Step 6 Fit the bracket LOOSLY to the GT81 using another 2 screws from the Pack A , again use washers. (Large allen key)
NOTE: there are several uTube videos showing WO fitting where only the focus lock knob is removed and a single screw connects the bracket. While this will work the bracket runs the risk of moving a little front to back as the motor changes direction , this will ruin accuracy by creating unreliable positioning. The OTA has a blanking grub screw covering the second hole (to keep dust out), Use both screw fix points.
Step 7 Check alignment and that the coupler is not touching scope body or motor body, tighten all the screws a bit at a time till all are nice and tight. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!
A moderate force on all 4 screws is all you need to fix the motor securely.
All done and ready to go
I placed the removed coarse focus knob and the focus lock/grub screw in their bag into the ZWO EAF box , so if I ever go to remove the motor they are there to put back on.
I'm asking about the views through my guidescope and main scope so excuse me if this is a stupid question or seems muddled. I've fitted my zwo mini guidescope onto the fs bracket on my evostar 72ed with my zwo asi120mc-s screwed onto it, then I've put my main imaging source, my Canon 600D onto the scope via my field flattener, when look through the guidescope via sharpcap or atp, what is in the centre of my dslr isn't quite in the centre of my guidescope, but when I manually tilt the front of the guidescope down towards the ota I can get both images the same, so my question is should I shim up at the back of the guidescope bracket to give me this view or is it OK to have the slight difference in views. I shan't be platesolving just yet and want to get to know my guiding with phd2 and pa with sharpcap better first and just use my dslr via an intervalometer. Thank you for reading and my baffoonary.
id like to sell the whole Rig at once if possible, due to me being a student now and i sadly have no place where i could use it safely.
- William Optics FLT 110/770 bought about 1,5years ago on this very platform, focuser stiff at one place but fully functional. https://www.astroshop.eu/william-optics-apochromatic-refractor-ap-110-770-fluorostar-110-tmb-ddg-ota/p,4988
- ASI 294 MC PRO (About 5 months old, roughly used 5 Nights)
- ZWO ASI290mm camera plus William Optics 50mm slidebase uniguide rotolock (Also bought from this platform roughly 1,5 years ago)
- Raspberry PI 4 (with 4 GB) running on Stellarmate OS
- Skywatcher HEQ5 Pro (1,5 Years old, unmodified)
- Custom Dewheater Band for Guide and Main Optic (Upgrading with a Voltage-Regulator recommended, but works fine. Its just quiet strong)
Many accessories, will update with Photos soon.
Everything is fully functional, Optics have no scratches whatsoever. Pictures made @ different focus Points so you get the best idea in what to expect.
Price: Im thinking about 3600€ for the whole Rig, self pickup preffered but sending possible.
Regards from Austria
I've been trying to image a couple of galaxies per night, one pre and one post flip. On early Saturday morning at 1:30am I changed over to M82, and acquired 63 x 3 mins subs, OSC, totalling 3 hours and 9 minutes of data.
Camera: ZWO 2600MC at -10 deg C, gain 100, offset 50
Telescope: Skywatcher 250PX (blue tube), 1200mm F4.7
Mount: Mesu e200
Guiding: ZWO OAGv2, 290MM, PHD2
Software: APT for capture, APP and PS for processing
I havent really had a chance to get much use out of this camera since I bought it in December, and I havent processed many OSC images before. I've a bit of work to do, but still very happy with the quality of the data for just 3 hours of integration time. I would like to add some Ha to this, but purposely didnt bother during the recent clear spell, as it was moonless nights and I gathered some broadband data on other targets instead.