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I'm trying to reignite my interest in astronomy after a few years off. I want to get into imaging (not in an expensive way) beginning with a simple setup. A few nights ago I was in my back garden with my Sky-Watcher Heritage-76 Mini Dobsonian and Canon EOS M camera connected to an eyepiece adapter (this one.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Celestron-93640-Universal-Barlow-T-Adaptor/dp/B00009X3UV/ref=asc_df_B00009X3UV/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309904628344&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9227521492625195769&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045736&hvtargid=pla-403917112227&psc=1&th=1&psc=1). I pointed my scope at the setting half moon and all I could see was a huge orange blob with a black circle in the middle, obviously this has something to do with focusing so what do I need to get this to work as my setup is already nearly bottom-heavy?
Either that or it might be a lot easier to use my Pixel 5 phone connected to the eyepiece, can anyone recommend a good adapter for this please? I've seen this on Amazon.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Svbony-Universal-Cellphone-Binocular-Monocular-Black/dp/B016EILBAY/ref=sr_1_10?crid=2D2EEIA81TKYX&dchild=1&keywords=mobile+phone+telescope+adapter&qid=1606225704&sprefix=mobile+phone+tele%2Celectronics%2C175&sr=8-10, but folks say they've had mixed results.
Thanks very much.
I would like to share my first picture ever posted and the first real picture captured with my Tecnosky 80/480 APO FPL53 Triplet OWL Series (not counting the test shots for "first light").
This is IC 1805, also known as the Heart Nebula, taken over 4 nights, under my Bortle 5 home sky.
Total integration time: 8h 52m 20s.
Here are the acquisition details:
Mount: Sky-Watcher NEQ6 Pro
Telescope: Tecnosky 80/480 APO FPL53 Triplet OWL Series
Camera: D5300 astromodified
Reducer/flattener: Tecnosky 4 elements, 0.8x
Guide-scope: Artesky UltraGuide 60mm f/4
Guide-camera: ZWO ASI 224MC
2020/10/07: Number of subs/Exposure time: 1@60s + 80@90s. Notes: No filter, Moon 70% illuminated
2020/10/13: Number of subs/Exposure time: 2@60s + 11@180s + 1@200s + 12@240s. Notes: L-Pro filter, no Moon
2020/10/27: Number of subs/Exposure time: 59@180s + 1@240s. Notes: L-Pro filter, Moon 88% illuminated
2020/10/28: Number of subs/Exposure time: 48@180s. Notes: L-Pro filter, Moon 93% illuminated
Total exposure time: 31940s = 8h 52m 20s.
Pre and post-processing: PixInsight 1.8.8-6.
Unfortunately, the best out of the 4 sessions (no Moon and L-Pro filter) was also the shortest one. But, after waiting for 5 months for my telescope, I couldn't pass up the few clear skies opportunities I got since it arrived, Moon or no Moon.
Here's a link to the full resolution image: Heart Nebula (IC 1805)
Thanks for looking and commenting!
This is one of those questions that over the last year, I am still not that sure on the best set up of my imaging train for planetary imaging using a CPC1100. In my train is first the visual back, X2 Barlow (or powermate 2.5), manual 5 filter wheel, ADC and then the ASI290MC camera. So they say the further the ADC is from the sensor the more adjustment it has but do you have the filter wheel in front of the ADC and camera or the ADC then the filter wheel next to the camera?.
Recently I bought a ZWO ASI178MM for planetary/lunar/deep-sky imaging and last weekend i had clear skies so I was able to capture videos of the moon in two panels. I have already processed the videos in AutoStakkert, I used 3x drizzle because I intend to print the image so now I have two 120MB TIFF images that i would like to combine in a two panel mosaic. I tried doing it in Hugin, a free panorama stitcher but the program crashes due to the file sizes being too large. I have searched for tutorials on using DynamicAlignment in PixInsight but it seems to me that i'll need a reference image to be able to create mosaics in PixInsight. Is there any way to go about this, I feel like this should be a pretty straightforward job but I am not very experienced in PI so I would really appreciate some advice.
I tried using DynamicAlignment as you can see in the attached screenshot but the result was just a cut version of the target image, aligned perfectly to the source image. It would be perfect if it didn't cut off the lower part of the target image.