Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

stargazine_ep29_banner.thumb.jpg.da7f3b163f7bd35187cb558b0346baf6.jpg

SteveBz

EQDIR for EQ5 SynScan controller

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Wim has wisely persuaded me to go for an eqdir cable from my RPi to my SynScan controller. I currently have a usb:db9 + db9:st4 setup to the SynScan handset (ie 3 cables connected). Can I just change the db9 to st4 to a db9:Rj45 or similar? Eg:
 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201608325158

Plus an old ethernet cable? Ie does the pinout of an ethernet cable correspond to the pinout of the SynScan controller handset socket?

Regards

Steve.

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you use that RJ45\DSub connector, you can usually remove-re-isnsert the interconnect wires (taking care) then a standard ethernet cable will suffice, and can be any length (within reason)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To me an EQDir cable is one that completely bypasses the hand controller. Something like this

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
49 minutes ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

If you use that RJ45\DSub connector, you can usually remove-re-isnsert the interconnect wires (taking care) then a standard ethernet cable will suffice, and can be any length (within reason)

Hi Julian,

Ie rewire?  As I remember it, the cable only has four relevant wires, vin, gnd, tx, rx, plus a conversion chip say MAX232  are they different on an ethernet plug than a Synscan plug?

OK, yes they are.  Here are the pinouts:

Standard ethernet:

https://ditzymummyliz.blogspot.com/2017/09/scanexpress-jet-peripheral-tests-part-2.html#

Hmm, I don't really want to do the soldering. 

Either a cheap one from aliexpress or stick with my usb to st4 (here's one for under a tenner).

Is there any difference between usb to st4 and usb to rj45?

Regards

Steve.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, Cornelius Varley said:

As an alternative try the Synscan USB adapter

Can I plug this into the main controller.  The ad just says the handset.

S

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
17 minutes ago, SteveBz said:

Can I plug this into the main controller.  The ad just says the handset.

S

The Synscan }USB dongle is an alternative to an EQDIR cable plugs into the mount's handset port.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you want to make it up yourself, you buy one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-to-TTL-Serial-Cable-FTDI-Genuine-chipset-5V-Transparent-with-LEDs/292901772167 , you can then either totally remove the cable that comes with it and fit up an Cat5 cable, with appropriate connections (only four required), or splice a cat5 cable onto the existing....

The one thing I would say, what I have linked to is a 5v switching, there is also a 3.3v switching version, and you will need to chaeck which version you need for your mount.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 minutes ago, Cornelius Varley said:

The Synscan }USB dongle is an alternative to an EQDIR cable plugs into the mount's handset port.

OK. Nice. A good alternative.

I'm thinking of this one:

#Aliexpress £4.80 | PC or Asiair to HEQ5 skywatcher EQMOD hand controller HC replaced synscan goto eqmod cable
https://a.aliexpress.com/_dXuQCMM

Steve.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 minutes ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

If you want to make it up yourself, you buy one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-to-TTL-Serial-Cable-FTDI-Genuine-chipset-5V-Transparent-with-LEDs/292901772167 , you can then either totally remove the cable that comes with it and fit up an Cat5 cable, with appropriate connections (only four required), or splice a cat5 cable onto the existing....

The one thing I would say, what I have linked to is a 5v switching, there is also a 3.3v switching version, and you will need to chaeck which version you need for your mount.

I have played with this before. I find it hard to get the tx/rx right. If you look at it from the controller it's one way, if you look at it from the computer it's the other. It doesn't really matter because it'll take +/- 18v according to the rs232 spec, nonetheless it's confusing. A tenner to China seems well spent.

Steve.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

FORGET RS232, these interfaces are NOT rs232 compliant, if you put a fully compliant rs232 device into your mount\handset, you'll have more work to do repairing things....

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 minutes ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

FORGET RS232, these interfaces are NOT rs232 compliant, if you put a fully compliant rs232 device into your mount\handset, you'll have more work to do repairing things....

I suppose I should have realised that.  It was just a convenient plug shape (or not).

So what do you think of this one?

#Aliexpress £4.80 | PC or Asiair to HEQ5 skywatcher EQMOD hand controller HC replaced synscan goto eqmod cable
https://a.aliexpress.com/_dXuQCMM

S.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You pays your money, you takes your choice.....  I've always made my own up, so can't comment, but to me it does seem cheap IF its a legit chipset....

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

You pays your money, you takes your choice.....  I've always made my own up, so can't comment, but to me it does seem cheap IF its a legit chipset....

So, the other choice is to take the existing USB->DB9 bit (with the ttl chip) and change the DB9->ST4 part with one of these:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cisco-Systems-72-3383-01-Rev-A2-Blue-rj45-to-DB9-6ft/353035986686?hash=item523295a6fe:g:PyYAAOSwUPVb-9nv

3 quid.

And replace the RJ45 plug with another, correctly wired, of which I have many hanging around.

S.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

NO, that will be RS232 compliant, you must stop just looking for a cheap as chips product, it probably won't work, & will more than likely damage your gear.....

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 minutes ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

NO, that will be RS232 compliant, you must stop just looking for a cheap as chips product, it probably won't work, & will more than likely damage your gear.....

But, Julian, the FT232 chip is already in my current USB->DB9.  The cable I showed you is straight through,  just needs the pins fixing.  Just swapping a 6 pin tail for an 8 pin tail.

Is that not right?

S

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it has a DB9, that usually means it\was for an older EQ6, is that correct ?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I looked into this in the past for my NE EQ6. I have to say the so called FTDI  Chinese chips were definitely  NOT  genuine chips.  There were plenty of websites complaining at that time about these Chinese FTDI chipsets. I believe if I remember correctly, FTDI did something to stop these  FTDI chips working correctly. You can't go wrong trying one but at your peril. I even bought so called genuine FTDI chips here in the UK and they were not, they failed. I also bought FTDI from RS and they worked immediately.

Your choice !!

Derek

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
48 minutes ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

If it has a DB9, that usually means it\was for an older EQ6, is that correct ?

It's for an EQ5. I'll attach a photo.

DSC_0187.JPG

DSC_0186.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I also wonder why different mounts require specific cables. Do they each have different pinouts?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yes, the DB9 you have is not the right adaptor for an EQ5, you will need of the adaptors I linked to. BTW when you have an appropriate adaptor, you won't be using the handset anymore, as the adaptor plugs into the motor box instead of the handset.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

yes, the DB9 you have is not the right adaptor for an EQ5, you will need of the adaptors I linked to. BTW when you have an appropriate adaptor, you won't be using the handset anymore, as the adaptor plugs into the motor box instead of the handset.

So this is the cable I have currently going from a pc to the handset.

DSC_0189.thumb.JPG.f5599dfb1ac009a1f986720c6fda510a.JPG

DSC_0190.thumb.JPG.9039c81534c05e6749cd18fc8562b9ee.JPG

I was wondering if I could keep the black one with the 232 chip in it, and just swap the grey one. Then remove the handset and cable, and plug straight into the controller?

S

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You just need to plug your grey one into the motor control unit (Hand Controller), instead of the handset, the guider\st4 port is a feed from the guide camera, and can be ignored. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Brownthunder93
      Anyone have any idea where I can get a replacement counterweight bar/shaft for my EQ5 mount? 
    • By pete_81
      Hi guys,
      With new mount and upgraded scope features, now looking to venture into imaging.
      Before I start, I'm not looking to get feedback on polar alignment, mono guidecam, better imaging cameras, etc; this is more a 'dummies guide' setup discussion! I'm not expecting to get great images at this stage, just more the options available, getting over some issues, so that I can jump outside on a clear night with an ideal, foolproof(!), setup for either imaging or visual as time would permit and what may work best for me. As you may guess from the topic name, I'm a mac user (Macbook Pro) and would rather keep to this if possible (whilst I do have Windows (and Ubuntu) via parallels, I'd rather not use these).
      I've got a setup which has worked well for visual, and obviously want to have a couple of 'staple' setups that I can use depending on expectations of night observing or imaging. So far, the best one for me has been the Skywatcher Wifi Synscan controller, which has worked a treat with my Android phone - I use the Synscan app to complete alignment and GOTO stars/planets/DSO etc, or Stellarium_plus after completing alignment. This removes the need for the Synscan Handset and any USB cables to the mount altogether. But I don't know if this will work for guiding.
      That then brings me to my issue on mac - connecting USB(A) between Macbook and Handset, I've attempted to control the mount through Stellarium. Trying each of the available connections (/dev/tty.usbsetial-1420, /dev/cu.usbsetial-1420, and just for sake of it, the /dev/tty.Bluetooth-Incoming-Port and /dev/cu.Bluetooth-Incoming-Port) in the dropdown menu under DeviceSettings/SerialPort, I cannot get the mount to connect (well, more like selecting the telescope and clicking the "Start" on the TelescopeControl just results in the spinning icon and I have to Force-Quit Stellarium and start again with the same result each time. Annoyingly (for fellow mac users!), Parallels/Windows/Stellarium connects and controls the mount fine! As the mount is the newer "pro" type, I also have a USB connection directly under the hand-controller RJ45 and AutoGuider ST4 sockets, but using this still results in the same issue. Another issue I have seen is that when I unplug the USB from the computer when connected to the handset, the date on the controller jumps significantly - for example, last night at ~23:30, I was transported through the local wormhole galaxy to Jan 2048 according to Synscan! Obviously unplugging isn't going to happen during a genuine session, but just wondering if this is a possible issue somewhere?!
      Any other mac users connecting USB directly to the SW 'Pro' mounts?
      Software wise, would folks generally suggest steering away from Stellarium towards KStars or SkySafari(Plus) for controlling the mount?
      Can the Wifi dongle be used for controlling mount from computer (any OS) or do I need to go USB either to handset or directly to mount?
      Is there an issue in using Mac USB to the telescope compared to 'straight' Windows (i.e. PC/laptop with Windows instead of virtual)?
      Anyway, back to topic... I've a Nikon DSLR to use for primary camera at this stage, which would be triggered independently from guiding software. PHD2 is my hopeful choice of guiding software (is EKOS with KStars similar?), with T7C guide-camera on 240mm f/4 guidescope, and at this stage, I can confirm PHD2 at least connects to the camera on OS-X. There is an ST4 port on the camera, but having read several topics, I think I want to pulse-guide directly - is this correct or is ST4 best for this setup? This sorta comes back to software and connections - my understanding is one of the following cable setups for guiding (as a minimum) :
      Guiding-camera => USB(A) => Macbook => PHD2 => USB(A) => SynscanHandset => AZEQ6
      Guiding-camera => USB(A) => Macbook => PHD2 => USB(A) => AZEQ6
      Guiding-camera => USB(A) => Macbook => PHD2 => Wifi => SynscaWifi Adapter on AZEQ6
      [using ST4: ST4_on_AZEQ6 => Guiding-camera => USB(A) => Macbook => PHD2] (no additional connections needed if ST4 is used)
      Additionally, I'd like to use an observatory package, say Stellarium/KStars/SkySafari, to select objects and drive the mount, then use guiding software to keep good 'tracking'.
      Where in this train does EQMac fit in, or when is it used?
      What about the 2019 addition to EQMod (ASCOM Alpaca)? Can this be used or is it already in other packages?!
      For Windows users, how does EQMod fit in (if I go down route of getting Windows laptop for controlling things, is the setup similar to above?
      There may be bits in the above that repeat, and for that, I'm sorry, just want to get across the message that I'm new to the guiding but haven't quite settled down into the software/hardware I'm expecting to use for 'goto' and 'guiding'
      TLDR:
      For a mac user, what setup and software are folks using for guiding and observatory softwares for the newer USB-on-mount 'AZEQ6/EQ6-R Pro' mounts from SW?
    • By Astrid
      My 200P just arrived and oh my God... I have been trying to wrap my head around the mount for 4 hours.
      The manual didn't really help so I decided to go on youtube, but again, I didn't find any good and detailed videos so I decided to ask here if there is any video or perhaps blog post that might help me set up the mount. 
      Thank you very much! 
      *by the way, is the EQ5 supposed to have slow motion cables? I only got 2 knobs (not cables) and I'm not sure if there is something missing or not... sorry, this is the first time I've used a serious equatorial mount or telescope. 
      Thank you very much!
    • By Marsto
      Hi
      I am looking for help and advice on my SynScan EQ5 pro problem which i am struggling with. Everything was working fine and as expected. I have never updated the firmware and thought while i had everything connected i would update the Hand Controller and the skywatcher WiFi dongle. 
      Everything updated first time without issue and i was pleased to be up to date. However i loaded SynScan app on the pc which connected fine through the handset and USB/Serial adaptor cable. I clicked on the movement arrows and nothing happened, i then went in to a random 1 star alignment and again no response from the motors. 
      I powered off again and instead of the PC i tried the hand controller, i tried a 1 star alignment and the hand controller was displaying the slewing but again no response from the motors. in panic i then did the same with the WiFi dongle and phone app, same thing the software is showing movement but the scope remains still. 
      Knowing all was well prior to firmware updates i reverted back to the previous firmware version and no difference, i tried it again in Lo mode and still nothing. I then noticed a firmware update for the Motor Control so thought i had nothing to loose i updated the Motor Control firmware and again no sign of life from the Motors. I have swapped the cables around, checked that they are all inserted correctly, the power is from mains not battery and the power source is plugged in to a a Power Filter and Surge protector. 
      I have little experience of circuit board electronics, i was struggling to find similar experiences online other than voltage issues due to batteries which is not the case. I have opened it up and no obvious loose cables of solder loose, but this was straight after the firmware update which seemed to have installed and updated very smoothly no crashes etc. 
      Any help would be really appreciated. 
       
    • By SteveBz
      Hi People,
      I have quite severe backlash, such that guiding assistant just gives up.  It seems to be about 11 secs in total, the one time GA came back with anything, but it's about 3-4 secs if I measure it by hand.  Here's some guiding.  Actually, it's worse when I'm dithering.

      So, I tried measuring the backlash with by counting and it's about 3-4 secs.  If I used PHD2 guiding assistant, mostly it fails, or it comes back with a very big number, like 11,350 msecs.
      I tried entering this:

      But then I got a see-saw mechanism, even when I dropped 8,000 to 3,000 it was the same.
      I've taken the motor off just now and looked at the grub/hex-screw mechanisms.  One hex-screw was loose, so I tightened it to hand tight and let the grub-screw off an eighth of a turn.  I'll look again this evening.
      I ran a three hour sequence of exposures on NGC6888 (with dither) and this is what I got on EVERY image.  Amazingly, they stacked nicely.

      So last night I ran without dither and it was mostly OK.  What I want is full dither, but to do that I need to deal with the backlash.
      Here's a photo of the motor and gears, most of the backlash seems to come from the top gear (ie the 12-tooth gear and its neighbour).  I guess the rest comes from the worm-gear:

      Does anyone have any suggestions? There doesn't seem to be a belt-mod for the EQ5 as far as I can see.  Maybe there are better Dec backlash compensation settings I could use.
      Thanks,
      Steve.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.