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D5100 modding & Star Eater removal


Leeps

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Hey all, 

I want to mod a D5100 to remove the IR/UV filter (and substitute a ZWO 2" astro one). One thing I've read about though, is the "star eater" filter that these cameras have. I managed to do the patch to remove this, but whenever I do, I get horrendous hot pixels, all over the frame. I've not seen anyone else reporting this... what am I doing wrong? If I put the old firmware back the issue goes away, but I won't want to get modding this thing if it's not going to be good for the job... I've actually done this with 2 cameras (Don't ask xD) and it's the same result with both... Is the patch just bad?

Attached is the frame - when I apply star eater removal I get this. If I do the "True dark current" mod, I get the same but with a magenta hue. 

Anyone else using a 5100?

DSC_0020.JPG

Edited by Leeps
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Why does this bother you? That is perfectly normal for sensor that is not cooled - you take dark frames and after dark calibration you should not have any more hot pixels remaining and if you do - dithering and sigma reject will sort it out.

Btw - here is screen shot from a piece of my dark frame (in fact master made out of 16 subs cooled at -20C):

image.png.9abf183dd8e526b4d6d9abc0a426fdb1.png

Plenty of hot pixels there as well. It is not about how many hot pixels you have - it is about how hot are they and if you can calibrate them out.

Can you post a single raw file dark sub, or better - maybe couple so we can try dark/dark calibration and see if these hot pixels calibrate out?

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Ah okay. I'm a beginner at this, and I've been shooting with my D3300 till now, got this camera just for astro so I was a bit dismayed at the sheer amount of these pixels jumping out at me - I thought I had broken the camera with the firmware hack! If this is actually pretty typical then I will go ahead and do the mod and get shooting. I struggle to find time in the evenings as I have a young baby, so I want my gear all ready to go when I go to shoot - I haven't got any proper light frames from the camera yet. 

 

If I can rely on the calibration frames, I will go for the true dark current mod, get the frames straight off the sensor in uncompressed RAW, and see how much better it is than my D3300!

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